Remove ball joint?

BoatMan

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Separate from spindle, check.

Going to replace this ball joint with a new one. Is there a special tool to unscrew it from control arm? I'd rather not married everything up with channel locks...

It's about 1 7\8" from flat side to flat side.

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Yes there is a special socket you can buy for this one job. They are available most places including ebay and amazon. Look up Mopar upper ball joint socket and you should find a few listed.
 
If you don't expect to need this tool again, most auto parts stores will loan you the special socket. I bought one years ago but loan from parts store is an option.
 
when you thread the new joint into the control arm make sure you get it straight. the threads are a round shape. and yes as big john said a long pipe on the end of tightening device.
 
That looks really rusty. Do you have a welder as a back up to tack weld the new one in when the threads get galled turning the old one out.
 
It would be a good idea to soak the upper ball joint in some good penetrating oil BEFORE you try to break it loose. Severely rusted units sometime break out all of the threads when trying to remove the old unit.

Dave
 
If you can get your hands on some "P.B.BLASTER" penetrating oil, clean and spray the hell out of it for a couple of days first.
 
Most auto parts stores have tool loaner programs for a deposit.
That's what I did so I didn't have to buy the socket...
 
There are, I think, 3 different sizes of that socket, so make sure that you get the right size.
 
i'd take the control arm out and take it to a shop were they can heat it a little with a torch and put a 3/4 inpact gun to it with the right socket cause you'll never get it out with hand tools. i just rebuilt the frontend in my 66 fury and the uper balljoints took over 300lbs. or touque to remove. put anti sieze on the new on when you install it. took the guy ten min. with3/4 inpact and installed new bushings too. charged me $20.
 
Ball joint good to go. On to next hurdle.

Put new spindle on (from a 69 Polara). Then dust shield. While trying to fit the rotor on I noticed the back of the rotor is the same diameter as the dust shield and hits that before the bearing ever gets into place. diagram shows it should slide under the dust shield (which came off the Polara).

Am I just not seeing something? Can I cut the shield part that comes up over the rotor? Can I buy a new shield that doesn't have it?

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Throw the shield in the trash only traps heat and how often are you driving through that much water with a fair weather car.
 
Thanks. Dust shield off. Check.

Now there is play in the rotor when tightened down. Maybe a sixteenth of an inch.
 
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