Removing Frame from Car without pulling front end

[TNC]

Hey guys,

I am working on a 73 Town and Country. I want to pull the sub/stub frame out from the car to blast and paint ist, as well as to rebuild the suspension. I would like to keep all of the sheet metal with the car.

My thought was to support the body with jack stands under the rockers and attach the core support to a hoist I have on the ceiling. So that the weight Is not tweaking on the fenders. Then roll everything out from under the car.

I have never worked on a C body before. I have read everything about removing the frame that I could find. Regarding what to watch out for when taking everything off to get it free from the body.

I just wanted to ask what the experienced folks think about my plan and if you have an tips or concerns.

Thanks in advance

-Tim

 

[Samplingman]

You are going to spend a lot more time figuring out how and what to support and disconnect in order to roll the stub out. You will also need a very tall ceiling and hoist to lift the core support hight enough to roll out the frame if the engine is still in place. There is a thread here where a member suspended his '71 SFGT, but he also supported the engine in the bay, so it is possible. If you are looking for advice, take off the fenders and core support, disconnect the fuel and brake lines and drive shaft, support the body on the pinch welds remove the frame bolts and you are good to go. This is what my process looked like. I built a cradle so I could roll the chassis around.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

The factory service book actually has that as an option.

Things to remember.
1. Parking brake cable goes through the frame so it will need to be split at the equalizer.
2. The exhaust will have to come out as it goes under the frame.
3. The wheel liners attach to the frame in a few spots.
4. The battery tray support attaches to the frame.
5. You may need to pull the front seat to get to a couple of the bolts.

Alan

 

[Samplingman]

Here is the page where @Wollfen supported the car and removed the stub, but it looks like the engine was out already.

Wollfen's 1971 Sport Fury GT !

 

[TNC]

Thanks for the reply. Engine and trans is out of the car already. So access to everything should be pretty simple.
Appreciate your pictures and the Write up. Already saw them on another post about taking the frame out. Taking the sheet metal off would be am option if it is necessary. From my novice look at things it seemed like a good option to slide the frame from out under.

 

[TNC]

The factory service book actually has that as an option.

Things to remember.
1. Parking brake cable goes through the frame so it will need to be split at the equalizer.
2. The exhaust will have to come out as it goes under the frame.
3. The wheel liners attach to the frame in a few spots.
4. The battery tray support attaches to the frame.
5. You may need to pull the front seat to get to a couple of the bolts.

Alan

Thanks for the tips. Is the Detroit iron service manual repro what everyone has?

 

[MrMoparCHP]

6. The rear brake line attaches to the frame with a few clips, you may need to disconnect the rear line from the distribution block to manipulate the frame around it.
7. Disconnect the master cylinder lines from the distribution block or the master.


Alan

 

[MrMoparCHP]

Although the body is off you can see that even with the wheel on you wouldn't need to to lift the front that high to clear the core support.
I had it on dollies so I could move it to the side. I was able to leave the exhaust in as I was able to lift the frame over them, even then it was difficult.

Alan

 

[TNC]

Although the body is off you can see that even with the wheel on you wouldn't need to to lift the front that high to clear the core support.
I had it on dollies so I could move it to the side. I was able to leave the exhaust in as I was able to lift the frame over them, even then it was difficult.
View attachment 514257

Alan

Yeah, that looks pretty doable. Having it on the wheels would be nice to roll it. Seems like the control arm mount is the highest Point.

 

[413]

Sounds like you have a good plan, I’d try it Like that. Too much work taking the nose off the car, and then back on and aligned without paint chips and damage.

Take the wheels & tires off and have 2 floor jacks under the subframe to roll it out. Then the body doesn’t have to be so high in the air.

 

[Davea Lux]

Thanks for the tips. Is the Detroit iron service manual repro what everyone has?

Download the FSM at www.mymopar.com You will find manuals in the Tools/Reference section from the home page. Save yourself a lot of PIA and just pull the front sheet metal. A lot less work in the long run and you can clean up the sides of the cowl while you are at it.

Dave

 

[73 NYB]

I'm sure it can be done but if you forgot something you have a good chance at buckling the fenders. I pulled the frame out of my '73 New Yorker in the fall and had the front sheetmetal off in a few hours.

 

[TNC]

In regard to buckling the fenders, that is why I am wanting to support The core support, as to not put the weight of the nose on the fenders.

So, as we have mixed responses I am just gonna go for my plan, heeding the warning that it might just be a waste of time and make things difficult. Should I come to the realisation that I went the wrong way, I will give in and take the front clip off.

I will update once I get to taking the frame out.

 

[TNC]

I am in the process of removing the frame. And I ran into something.

How many bolts are there supposed to be holding the stub frame on?

On my car there are the two in the Firewall area. And then the big one in the back. (On each side of course)

but there is a little bracket on the frame that has a hole lining Up with a hole in the body.

is there supposed to be a bolt In there?

 

[MrMoparCHP]

Just the 4 at the firewall, 2 through the floorboard, 2 (with nuts) at the outboard ends, 2 just inboard of that (without nuts).

Alan

 

[73 NYB]

On the '71 up frames there is provision to put a bolt there but the factory did not. That is where the older non isolated frame ended like in pic CHP posted, but a '73 frame like yours has the longer "legs" that extend past the transmission crossmember, that have the larger bolt and bushings in them.

So yours should just have 8 altogether. 2 at the radiator, 4 at the firewall and the 2 larger ones at the rear.