Runs like a Teriyaki rice burner

Blish

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Howdy yall

I just got back around to the ole girl. I've been having issues with the car recently. Parked it up a month due to issues with it running.

At first it would randomly skip going down the road now its turned into a constant skip, and it runs horribly and then randomly idles fine. Going down the road it seems like it intermittently runs on 6 or 7 and sometimes when it's cold itll surge and run on all 8. Its definitely down on power and it runs best when your foot is on the floor between 3000-4000 rpm and taking off at full throttle. I just rebuilt the carb and set the floats and got it all adjusted. Timing is at 8 degrees. I also replaced the ballast resistor as it would only run when you hwld the starter and would randomly run normally. I also replaced the coil, distributor cap and rotor, ans plug wires and plugs. I am scratching my head now!

I have a full tank of fresh fuel. $73 worth to be exact!

Any help is appreciated! -Paul
 
So you're saying to double check timing? I've got it will do. My car only has 41k miles so I doubt the chain has jumped. I counted 2 degree play when I got it
 
The basic timing setup, not the chain so much. His car ran better after double checking/setting the basics, firing order, tdc, etc.
 
Show us clear pics of the engine [without the breather] and the spark plug wires to start. Posts like this remind me of the people who call the high tech help desk and tell us "it no work" "come fix" and have no clue what the machine serial number is let alone the model. Yes, very complicated technology but the principle still applies when seeking tech support.

BTW not enough initial timing, try 12-15 btdc.
 
Bump your timing up to 10-12* or even higher if you don't get ping, your car will thank you and you'll be happier too. Good Luck
 
Show us clear pics of the engine [without the breather] and the spark plug wires to start. Posts like this remind me of the people who call the high tech help desk and tell us "it no work" "come fix" and have no clue what the machine serial number is let alone the model. Yes, very complicated technology but the principle still applies when seeking tech support.

BTW not enough initial timing, try 12-15 btdc.
I just got out of school ill get a picture in a minute
 
If it only runs good with foot on the floor at 3-4000 rpm this sounds like too much fuel and it takes that long to clear it out.

is the needle and seat dripping fuel? Flooding the engine? Are the plugs fouled or wet, does it blow black smoke?

Are you experienced at carb work?
 
If it only runs good with foot on the floor at 3-4000 rpm this sounds like too much fuel and it takes that long to clear it out.

is the needle and seat dripping fuel? Flooding the engine? Are the plugs fouled or wet, does it blow black smoke?

Are you experienced at carb work?
The needle and seat do not drip fuel. I do have to hold it to start it but when it runs at idle I have good vacuum. Plugs aren't fouled and aren't wet.

And yes I had my uncle help me tune the carb hes a seasoned mechanic with about 30+ years of experience under his belt.
 
Here's my V8 juice

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Is the wiring OK to ECU (assuming 4-prong connector)?
*power to ECU
*2 distributor wires
*Coil primary ground
Check Resistance across all 4 wires, voltage at ECU power and distributor power
 
Is the wiring OK to ECU (assuming 4-prong connector)?
*power to ECU
*2 distributor wires
*Coil primary ground
Check Resistance across all 4 wires, voltage at ECU power and distributor power
No ecu, its a standard carb and points now. Dizzy wires are good and thr coil ground is good
 
I'm still trying to figure out how a teriyaki rice burner is supposed to run
 
Points gap and dwell good? Condenser? Did you replace them (points and condenser) when you replaced the ballast resistor? Too long on a shorted or intetemittanly functioning ballast resistor can burn your points and take out your condenser.
 
Points gap and dwell good? Condenser? Did you replace them (points and condenser) when you replaced the ballast resistor? Too long on a shorted or intetemittanly functioning ballast resistor can burn your points and take out your condenser.
Have not tried this, will report back tomorrow after work with results
 
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