Should I get a newer 727?

[CBODY67]

The part-throttle "automatic" downshift is a neat thing to have, which puts the TF on par with GM automatics (which use a vacuum modulator to assist with this function). BUT what I got used to doing on the '66, when it was still newer, but after the part-throttle upgrade went into production, was to do a quick manual downshift to 2nd from 3rd, then upshift appropriately.

Needs less throttle than the PT kickdown (as on our '72 Newport Royal 400) does. Usually where I would use it was for merging into freeway gaps/spaces. Once you learn the car's characteristics, then it becomes second nature . . . at least to me. Don't need to get anywhere NEAR WOT for these deals!

From the base KD rod adjustment, I added two full turns of pre-load to it. This raised the automatic "modulated" shift points a few mph, but enough that things worked better when accelerating away from red lights in traffic. More acceleration on less throttle input! The car felt happier too!

CBODY67

 

[Gerald Morris]

The part-throttle "automatic" downshift is a neat thing to have, which puts the TF on par with GM automatics (which use a vacuum modulator to assist with this function). BUT what I got used to doing on the '66, when it was still newer, but after the part-throttle upgrade went into production, was to do a quick manual downshift to 2nd from 3rd, then upshift appropriately.

Needs less throttle than the PT kickdown (as on our '72 Newport Royal 400) does. Usually where I would use it was for merging into freeway gaps/spaces. Once you learn the car's characteristics, then it becomes second nature . . . at least to me. Don't need to get anywhere NEAR WOT for these deals!
From the base KD rod adjustment, I added two full turns of pre-load to it. This raised the automatic "modulated" shift points a few mph, but enough that things worked better when accelerating away from red lights in traffic. More acceleration on less throttle input! The car felt happier too!

CBODY67

Soo right! Just a few turns to adjust the kickdown rod was all Tilly needed. After getting that new distributor w a working vac advance, I've had plenty pep for passing. I always have downshifted manually when I thought situations warranted it, and still do, but for most of my driving and with the right springs and adjustments on the linkage, I enjoy truly excellent performance with that car.

 

[Joseph James]

I tried WOT in 3rd on highway this morning. Nothing happened.

 

[65sporty]

I tried WOT in 3rd on highway this morning. Nothing happened.

But, what speed where you going when you tried this?

 

[carrman]

We had to put another trans into my Newport, and in doing so we had the proper rooster comb in the tranny for the 3 pin switch. We bypassed the column switch since the finger that moved the switch has been missing ever since I got the car, and wired to the back up lights. Bingo, I have working reverse lights now.

 

[Joseph James]

But, what speed where you going when you tried this?

About 50 mph. Floored it. Just moved along in 3rd.

 

[CBODY67]

What are the normal upshift speeds for "normal" driving?

 

[cbarge]

What are the normal upshift speeds for "normal" driving?

I have the PT kickdown in the BoaB.
under normal driving conditions 1-2 shift is 10-15 MPH.
2-3 at 20-25.
City driving,around 40 climbing hils she downshifts on her own and back in drive at the top of the hill.
Beauty is when slowing down she gears down 3-2 on her own when dropping past 20!

At 65-70 just cruising,then to pass a truck she kicks down and upshifts around 90 unless I back off and back into 3rd!
A real blast to drive!
I had some spare one wire switches somewhere,but **** got moved around do much since I sold my house I could not find it.

 

[CBODY67]

One of Chrysler's "calibration trademarks" seem to be the TFs upshift a bit soon during normal driving. This puts the trans in 3rd a bit too soon, so all acceleration is "on the converter", which is smoother but also a bit more sluggish, relying upon torque to do the deal at the lower vehicle speeds. The orig lockup converter TFs locked-up at 27mph, which further complicated things, but those were also part-throttle kickdown valve bodies. When traffic patterns were generally slower, all of this felt reasonably good and the engines responded decently well to smaller throttle inputs . . . after all, if you were in a hurry, WOT might be appropriate, it seems.

The other side of things is that such earlier upshifts also made the vehicles feel more sluggish, when a similar GM 3-speed automatic would have already downshifted and be gone.

When I took my parents' then-new '72 Newport Royal 400 in for its 3000 mile check, the make ready tech and I went for a road check and he adjusted the kd linkage to get a bit sooner downshift and later upshift in pt kd mode. And that's where it stayed. A "try-it" to see what works best situation.

On the '66 Newport 383, I'd been doing the manual pt downshift (3-2) for a good while and had learned to do it so that it was not noticed, but the car accelerated quicker with less throttle. WOT was not needed in all situations. So this was a good thing to learn about!

The earlier upshift situation seemed to become more noticeable after the "grams/mile" emissions regs (rather than the earlier "ppm" measurements) were put into place. AND engine sizes generally decreased to LA from B/RB. And the linkage adjustment was moved down below the cowl, so it was not really accessible and allegedly needs some special holding springs to make the adjustment "right". That's where the thin, black plastic wire tie in the bottom rear of the kd rod slot came in handy! And was just the right amount of preload on the '80 Newport 360 2bbl. These little changes made the cars feel so MUCH peppier and responsive to acceleration the would obviously have fewer emissions as a result, it seems.

My rule of thumb came to be to get the trans into high gear at what would be about 1000rpm after the shift. For a H78-15/2.76 combination, that would be 28mph. Change that to a 3.23 with the same tire size and then 25mph would be appropriate. To me, that criteria resulted in better operating vehicles.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[Joseph James]

One of Chrysler's "calibration trademarks" seem to be the TFs upshift a bit soon during normal driving. This puts the trans in 3rd a bit too soon, so all acceleration is "on the converter", which is smoother but also a bit more sluggish, relying upon torque to do the deal at the lower vehicle speeds. The orig lockup converter TFs locked-up at 27mph, which further complicated things, but those were also part-throttle kickdown valve bodies. When traffic patterns were generally slower, all of this felt reasonably good and the engines responded decently well to smaller throttle inputs . . . after all, if you were in a hurry, WOT might be appropriate, it seems.

The other side of things is that such earlier upshifts also made the vehicles feel more sluggish, when a similar GM 3-speed automatic would have already downshifted and be gone.

When I took my parents' then-new '72 Newport Royal 400 in for its 3000 mile check, the make ready tech and I went for a road check and he adjusted the kd linkage to get a bit sooner downshift and later upshift in pt kd mode. And that's where it stayed. A "try-it" to see what works best situation.

On the '66 Newport 383, I'd been doing the manual pt downshift (3-2) for a good while and had learned to do it so that it was not noticed, but the car accelerated quicker with less throttle. WOT was not needed in all situations. So this was a good thing to learn about!

The earlier upshift situation seemed to become more noticeable after the "grams/mile" emissions regs (rather than the earlier "ppm" measurements) were put into place. AND engine sizes generally decreased to LA from B/RB. And the linkage adjustment was moved down below the cowl, so it was not really accessible and allegedly needs some special holding springs to make the adjustment "right". That's where the thin, black plastic wire tie in the bottom rear of the kd rod slot came in handy! And was just the right amount of preload on the '80 Newport 360 2bbl. These little changes made the cars feel so MUCH peppier and responsive to acceleration the would obviously have fewer emissions as a result, it seems.

My rule of thumb came to be to get the trans into high gear at what would be about 1000rpm after the shift. For a H78-15/2.76 combination, that would be 28mph. Change that to a 3.23 with the same tire size and then 25mph would be appropriate. To me, that criteria resulted in better operating vehicles.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

I get quick shifts to 3rd before 30 mph.

I notice the speedometer isn’t very steady once I hit 55. It jumps some.

Going to go through kd procedure and see if it helps.

 

[furious70]

Another thing you can do is tie the kickdown back a bit so it always had some preload if you can't get the full range to do what you want. In that way you can have the low throttle improvements talked about here and still have full pressure at wot

 

[Gerald Morris]

I get quick shifts to 3rd before 30 mph.

I notice the speedometer isn’t very steady once I hit 55. It jumps some.

Going to go through kd procedure and see if it helps.

Crank that kickdown rod back a couple or 3 turns, and be sure you have SUITABLE throttle return spings, properly attached. I had generic return springs from VatoZone-Oh-Really which failed to permit my kickdown. When these were replaced with springs suited for a 66 Newport and adjusted, I got the good kickdown I now enjoy. It helps to have the vacuum advance set properly also.

 

[CBODY67]

The unsteady speedometer needle is not related to the kickdown linkage adjustment. Two different systems.

Probably need a new speedometer cable casing? Might try some appropriate speedo cable lube on the cable itself, first.

CBODY67

 

[Gerald Morris]

The unsteady speedometer needle is not related to the kickdown linkage adjustment. Two different systems.

Probably need a new speedometer cable casing? Might try some appropriate speedo cable lube on the cable itself, first.

CBODY67

Download a GPS speedo app to an Android phone and display it near the instrument panel. GPS now covers enough of the globe to trust it.

 

[Joseph James]

Just some photos for you.Switched from a single to a 3 prong on my 68.The column switch was broken..Got the parts from Rock Auto, order for a 1970.Don't forget to order the 3 prong plug too.View attachment 289109 View attachment 289110 Be sure the length matches to work the rooster comb.I believe the length changed in the 73-up years if I remember. Run extension wires from column switch wires thru the fire wall and follow the path of the neutral safety wire to transmission.You can see the brown wire is for the neutral safety center wire.I used red+white for my 2 wire extension to column.Don't matter what color and they hook to the 2 outer wires from the plug.They can hook to any side as they just complete the ground.
P.S. If you change the valve body to the part throttle kickdown type, order for the year of the valve body. Hope this helps.

Thanks! I just swapped switches. Getting ready to do the wiring.

Edit-the 69 switch works but not as planned. Backup lights are on in forward or reverse gears.

 

[C-Sick]

Turn the harness plug 180 on the switch and the back up lights should work normal.