eyemon
New Member
Big_John, I found the address after my post sent so will get corrected things going to you Tomorrow
simple electric fuel pump wiring
- Thread starter eyemon
- Start date
Sounds good!
mcmlvii
Well-Known Member
I added an electric fuel pump as a primer to fill the carb but still retain the stock mechanical pump too. After the car sits for extended periods, I switch on the electric pump to fill the carb bowl, then switch it off and start the car normally. I haven't noticed any fuel starvation issues from having the mechanical pump draw through the switched-off electric pump.
Eyemon's relay circuit and instructions.
I'm sure he can answer any questions.
I'm sure he can answer any questions.
eyemon
New Member
Big_John: Thanks so much for all of you work posting this information!!! I'm hoping that all of what you show will do a lot better job "splaining" how the installation works to anyone who might want to consider using it on their own change electric pump installation. ( I'm really going to try to "splain" thing in fewer words though) Thanks and more!
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
BJ is my go-to guy around here for electrical.
saylor
Senior Member
whatever yall do just please wire in a oil pressure kill switch or a rollover switch out of a tempo or something so you don't burn alive in a fiery death when you wreck and the fuel pump is still running.
eyemon
New Member
I don't know if you have looked at the wiring diagram or not but it has an oil pressure safety switch that kills the pump if the motor stalls out with the ignition on. I use a standard 3 blade oil pressure safety swith but don't use the "common" connection on the switch. Once the delay relay times out, the pump is fed only through the oil pressure safety switch until the next startup cycle.
saylor
Senior Member
I just went and looked. if that delay box works that's bad ***.
mcmlvii put a switch. I aspire to do that. right now I have a loop of wire I carry with me that I manually touch the pins together and prime up if the car has been sitting for days.
mcmlvii put a switch. I aspire to do that. right now I have a loop of wire I carry with me that I manually touch the pins together and prime up if the car has been sitting for days.
68plymouth383
Senior Member
What about manually priming the carb with pulling the air cleaner lid and giving a drink of fuel?
rexus31
Senior Member
Why do that if there's a better solution? Do you still use a rotary phone?
68plymouth383
Senior Member
Most hard start problems occur after sitting long periods of time. For me instead of rewiring my car, and installing more fuel lines I'll just give the carb throat a drink...
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As long as you are just filling the carb bowl through the vent, you're OK... although the convenience of not having to lift the hood etc. is a real good reason.
Just dumping the fuel in the open carb... IMHO, not real good. I know... people do it all the time... and they experience things like back fires blowing up mufflers... or carb fires... or washing down the cylinders... and more.
Just dumping the fuel in the open carb... IMHO, not real good. I know... people do it all the time... and they experience things like back fires blowing up mufflers... or carb fires... or washing down the cylinders... and more.
68plymouth383
Senior Member
Even though the electric fuel pump is only used to refill the bowls isn't the pressure from it still to much for a carb application?
rexus31
Senior Member
No. I know guys that block off the mechanical pump access and run an electric pump full time. This of course requires a regulator as they are running it full time. In the application described in this thread, it should be fine as you are only running it for a couple seconds to fill the bowls.
68plymouth383
Senior Member
No, you use a low pressure (approx 5 PSI) pump and that is about the same pressure as a stock pump. There are race pumps made that are higher pressure (approx 14 PSI) and have regulators to bring the pressure down to around 7 PSI for a race application.
The high pressure pump (30 to 80 PSI) used in new fuel injected cars would be too much for the needle and seat in the carb float bowl.
eyemon
New Member
I don't mean to jump in here if the discussion isn't related to the pump wiring diagram that BJ posted for me, but if it does then the pump on my Monaco is fulltime and as BJ has noted, it doesn't require a pressure regulator since the output of my pump is about the same as the original pump. The stock pump has been replaced with a block off plate. The pump is a FACET
GOLD-FLO, 4.0 to 5.5 PSI, 1.6 amp, 36 gph. I oppologize if this is unrelated to your discussion
GOLD-FLO, 4.0 to 5.5 PSI, 1.6 amp, 36 gph. I oppologize if this is unrelated to your discussion
68plymouth383
Senior Member
No that helps.
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