sluggish ride

Suggestion 1. Try try try again.

The timing mark is to the upper side of the harmonic balancer in that picture right where the mark would disappear under the bolt above. In the picture.
 
Wipe/scrape the timing tab clean so you can see the numbers. TDC should be toward the top of it.

Looks like some of the points' wiring is aged and needs to be replaced?
 
Switching from manifold to ported vacuum made a little bit of a difference. Definitely seems more responsive. Still has a dead spot right after accelerating. Then it seems to click and be fine and take the gas.
 
I cleaned up the points and the wiring a little bit with some brake cleaner and a tooth brush.
It appears that I am 1 or 2 degrees retarded from TDC. Am I correct?
Do each of the marks represent 5 degrees?

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Look at that cam in your distributor, is the lube brown? Or is it old and crusty grease? Needs to be clean and smooth

Just advance the timing until it pings and back it off. Rotate it clockwise 7/16” and go burn rubber. Make sure it cranks over OK Without chugging from over advanced timing.
 
where is your electric choke wired to? In the photo it looks to be headed to the coil.
If so undo from coil and you can use the 12 volt side of the ballast resister with a piggy back female spade connector.

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Ok, I set the timing to 15 retarded (to the left on the tab).
He revs great now and didn't have anywhere near the hesitation.
Even with my minimal knowledge I knew it wasn't supposed to be timed at 2.
I'll try to turn more than 15 until it pings and back it off a few degrees.
 
Look at that cam in your distributor, is the lube brown? Or is it old and crusty grease? Needs to be clean and smooth
.

that is rusty and crusty. Doesn't appear to be grease. Should I clean it and grease it? What type of grease?
 
Ok. I will look at that and fix if needed.
But, Why ??
It will be daring voltage from coil positive that has already been reduced at the ballast resistor, take the power from the ballast resistor at the 12 volt side before it is reduced and sent to coil.
 
When i went the other direction on the tab, right when standing in front of the motor looking at it, the idle went down and was going to stall.
So as a driver if I'm going to the right. Pepped right up and gave me about 200 rpm's at idle. I believe it is sitting at about 800 now.
 
And another edit and question.

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Unless I am looking at this wrong, the mark noted by the arrow is 15 degrees ADVANCED (ie BTDC) not retarded or ATDC. Have you checked to see that the mechanical advance is moving freely? If you grab the rotor, you should be able to twist it CCW a few degrees and it should return freely when released. Lindsay
 
Have you checked to see that the mechanical advance is moving freely? If you grab the rotor, you should be able to twist it CCW a few degrees and it should return freely when released. Lindsay

The rotor does turn CCW but doesn't return freely. It does eventually return and is in a constant state of returning but is very slow.
 
The choke is wired to itself, I believe grounded? and the other wire goes directly into the fuse box on the lower ACC tab. The other blue wire that comes off that ACC tab goes to the aftermarket voltage meter.

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The rotor does turn CCW but doesn't return freely. It does eventually return and is in a constant state of returning but is very slow.
The FSM will guide you through removing the breaker plate and vac advance to allow you to clean and lube the mech. advance. Not difficult, just routine maintenance. Lindsay
 
I do not have a factory service manual.
My goal at Carlisle was to find one, but did not find what I was after.
I need multiple. Anyone have one up for sale?
 
I have a few truck books. Would they have the same routine for the maintenance?
 
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