Those of us that are older than dirt who actually drove and worked on these cars when they we new, never cease to be amazed by what some of the so called "techs" today don't know.
Unfortunately most of the newbie's coming up never had to rip a wiring harness apart to find a wire with a bad splice, or got corroded. They rely on the diagnostic computer to tell them were the problem is. We oldsters may not be able to fix the new stuff today without the manual, but they have no idea about the older cars. A while back I had a 1992 Voyager, and one day the speedo started to read kilometers instead of miles per hour. After changing the sensors I took it to the dealer, you should have seen the deer in the headlights look on the tech's face when I told him the problem, and his computer would not communicate with my car.
These dear Mopar steering boxes if ours are slush boxes at best. I replaced mine with a rebuilt unit which was worse than my original. I had to turn that sector shaft screw about 5 turns before it started to snug up. The problem is in the pressure springs used. Feel Firm remanufactures boxes that improve this dramatically but at a cost most have a hard time dishing out... I Simply kept a wrench and allen hex wrench handy and drove until i found aa good compromise in the steering down the road. If you everhave a chance drive a 1960's Ford. They drive the same way Sloppy as can be nick named the famous Ford wander.... Remember the suspension was designed the bias ply tires not radials... All bets are off for handling with radials. I Also discovered a ceased tie rod last fall which no one but myself could diagnose Front end alignment shops presumed all was good blaming the steering box. My Polara would wander ldft then right and ne er hapoy going in a straight line... It remembered a toyota from the 90's and a chevy blazer doing the same thing so I took the tie rods apart and found one extremely tight. I Replaced it and now my car floats down the road quite nicely! Yes it floats, it isnt a modern car. Next upgrade is rack n pinion... Rear sway bar, maybe even coil n shock to replace the torsion bars but seriously this isnt worth the investment.
You need different alignment specs. Reinventing the wheel will not fix. Specs that will work will radials will help and making sure steering linkage is operating in parallel then making sure bump steer is non existent. Details
I'm on phone and haven't read all so may have missed but has anyone addressed potential for catastrophe if adjustment is done wrong?
No I mean getting setting wrong can cause boost imbalance and loss of control I must be thinking of another adjustment that affects boost balance side to side
That's the fluid manifold on top, if it gets knocked out of alignment it will self steer, like it has been hacked by the Russians.
If I'm correct the top valve placement would cause the imbalance not the pitman shaft being too tight It will cause a very tight Center point which will increase the wander affect The p/s valve is the part if not Center's properly is the deadly auto turn function left or right
Unless the p/a valve has been removed or shifted on the steering gear, it will not be effected by other adjustments.
This is bound up too much and you are wandering because of the in and out movement of the steering input shaft. If the input shaft is adjusted correctly the center would still act tight and uncomfortable feeling but the wander would not be as bad. If that makes any sense.
Thanks to all..I adjusted the box this morning..took 5 full turns to get some feel and reduce slop and wander to a tolerable level..now I have to go fight with the front end shop who cost me $400 for unnecessary R+R of a good box due to numb nuts "tech" insisting box couldn't adjusted. I should have done my homework..I should have known better than to trust "professionals"..Yep, if you want it done right, do it yourself.
Glad you were able to adjust it. One of those situations where one would like to take it back to the idiots who installed it and have them install it where the sun never shines. Dave
Inside of the steering gear under the adjusting screw is a spring loaded lash adjusting rod. Turning down on the adjustment increases the amount of spring tension on the lash adjuster which reduces the amount of slop in the gear. They are made this way so that gear wear in the center of the gear, the most likely spot for wear, can be compensated for without having the gear lock up when the wheel is turned past the center line wear on the gear.
Ive always heard of the adjustments being done, Ive never done it, nor have I ever witnessed it being done.
