Strut Rods

MONC440

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I was going to update my strut rods to firm feel rods but they say you can’t use the stock sway bar links with them.

Both of mine are bent with the left side being the worst. I suspect someone put it in a ditch at some point because the sway bar to frame links are also bent and the lower valance panel is damaged badly.

Anyway my question is if I make some new ones on the lathe what steel would be best?

Thanks
 
Do they also sell sway bars to clear/mate with their strut rods?

Just curious,
CBODY67
 
In looking at their website, it appears that THEIR sway bar has attachments to the strut rods as the factory attaches. Perhaps the reason their website claims (which I have not discovered just yet) the strut rods will not work with the factory sway bas is the diameter of their rods is larger than the OEM rods? In which case, a different attachment bushing would be needed.

I fully understand the orientation on the cost of their sway bar kits!

Enj0y!
CBODY67
 
In looking at their website, it appears that THEIR sway bar has attachments to the strut rods as the factory attaches. Perhaps the reason their website claims (which I have not discovered just yet) the strut rods will not work with the factory sway bas is the diameter of their rods is larger than the OEM rods? In which case, a different attachment bushing would be needed.

I fully understand the orientation on the cost of their sway bar kits!

Enj0y!
CBODY67
I emailed them and they responded that the original sway can be used but the bushing will will not fit properly cause excessive wear.

Back to my original question what type of steel are strut rods made from. I hit it with a file to check hardness and they seem to be just a mild steel.
 
Back to my original question what type of steel are strut rods made from. I hit it with a file to check hardness and they seem to be just a mild steel.
No idea what steel. You could spark test them to get a better idea, but I think the easiest thing might be to straighten what you have.

A few minutes with a press and some patience would take care of it.
 
No idea what steel. You could spark test them to get a better idea, but I think the easiest thing might be to straighten what you have.

A few minutes with a press and some patience would take care of it.
Yeah I was thinking about that also but I read some opinions on here that straightening them would be a bad idea. I think I will try to straighten them first.
 
Some might not like the idea of straightening as heat might need to be involved? Yet a good and slow cold press might be a better way, possibly? OR some rods from a salvage vehicle where the side or rear end had the damage on it?

CBODY67
 
i wouldn't think twice about it. if it's tweaked one way, just tweak it back.
I have access to a 3 ton press with some good v blocks that will help. I still have to pull them out which probably won’t happen for another month but when I do I will post pics and results on here.
 
Regarding the firm feel sway bar: it doesn't attach to the strut rods, but rather attaches to the lower control arms with included brackets. It will make your car handle better and will eliminate the wear that occurs on the strut rods. I'd recommend it for a car that gets driven frequently.
 
iirc they're pretty soft we used to shorten them on the race cars for more caster and thread them further with a regular die...i think a few good shots with a big dead blow hammer would do it...or clamp it in a vise and slide a pipe over it and yank...unless they are set up in such a way to adjust them for more caster than stock i cant think of a reason for a "performance" strut rod...and i know how you feel my pre-existing rear sway bar wont clear the new TTI exhaust and the price of theirs is insane
 
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Regarding the firm feel sway bar: it doesn't attach to the strut rods, but rather attaches to the lower control arms with included brackets. It will make your car handle better and will eliminate the wear that occurs on the strut rods. I'd recommend it for a car that gets driven frequently.
I have no doubt that FF is better than stock but just don’t want the extra cost.
 
Do you have the 7/8" or 15/16" swaybar?
15/16 could be a less-expensive alternative.

After you get straight strut rods in there, evaluate how much grind-wear is on them, you might need to go 1/16" smaller on ID to get a good fit on the strutrod.
Some ingenuity with poly saddle bushings/brackets might be a better option vs new factory-spec rubber bushings.
 
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