stupid turn signal switch...grr...

70Tom

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Well, fried another turn signal switch on the way to work today. I guess the electric shop didn't do a very good job in diagnosing the issue after the 1st one fried (diagnosis: switch just went bad).

I'll be taking it back in for them to rectify the problem. At least it was a repop switch I wasn't very happy with. Just ordered a NOS switch that is being overnighted to me. Hopefully this will get resolved this time as the switch wasn't cheap. You'd figure a shop open since 1974 would have figured out the problem the 1st time, but maybe not. Might have been the switch, but seeing as it's the same problem (right turn signal fries out), I doubt it.

Seeing smoke come out of your steering column underneath the steering wheel never gets less exciting when you're driving. Damn electrical....
 
Well, fried another turn signal switch on the way to work today. I guess the electric shop didn't do a very good job in diagnosing the issue after the 1st one fried (diagnosis: switch just went bad).

I'll be taking it back in for them to rectify the problem. At least it was a repop switch I wasn't very happy with. Just ordered a NOS switch that is being overnighted to me. Hopefully this will get resolved this time as the switch wasn't cheap. You'd figure a shop open since 1974 would have figured out the problem the 1st time, but maybe not. Might have been the switch, but seeing as it's the same problem (right turn signal fries out), I doubt it.

Seeing smoke come out of your steering column underneath the steering wheel never gets less exciting when you're driving. Damn electrical....
I feel your pain!
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Looks like you have a mild short on the right side. Not enough to blow a fuse, but draw high current. Check the bulbs for one that is burnt.
 
Did you figure out the source of that? I really need to start driving with a fire extinguisher. That could be disastrous.
I trust my car, but I always have an extinguisher on track floor behind me. I can lose parts, not the whole car.
 
I trust my car, but I always have an extinguisher on track floor behind me. I can lose parts, not the whole car.
I like how almost no stores near me have a reasonable extinguisher in stock. I had to order one from Target. Some days I feel like, despite all this apparent great technology, life just becomes more and more of a pain in the ***. Ridiculous.
 
You have a short on the right side and it is some place other than the switch. It will keep frying them until you find the source. I would start by checking all the lamp sockets on the right side. Try unhooking the lamp sockets and the hook a test lead to the terminal on the switch that fried. If it does not heat up and start to fry with the sockets unhooked, you then know your problem is in the sockets and not the harness. Also a good time to check the rear taillight assembly to see if it is full of water.

Dave
 
I got my extinguisher from a vendor, he was checking the ones at a gas station I used to work at, and I asked him if he had any that were expired. He had two on board and gave them to me! "Never hurts to ask" I was once told, and it's true. The worst he could have said was no.
 
You have a short on the right side and it is some place other than the switch. It will keep frying them until you find the source. I would start by checking all the lamp sockets on the right side. Try unhooking the lamp sockets and the hook a test lead to the terminal on the switch that fried. If it does not heat up and start to fry with the sockets unhooked, you then know your problem is in the sockets and not the harness. Also a good time to check the rear taillight assembly to see if it is full of water.

Dave
Thanks for the tip. I will relay it to the electrical shop who should have diagnosed this the first time around. Can I charge them for the $35 for 1-day shipping on the switch or the switch itself? Grrrr....:BangHead:
 
I got my extinguisher from a vendor, he was checking the ones at a gas station I used to work at, and I asked him if he had any that were expired. He had two on board and gave them to me! "Never hurts to ask" I was once told, and it's true. The worst he could have said was no.
Nice. And I'm sure they work better than the one I just bought. I figured it's better to have something than nothing.
 
You have a short on the right side and it is some place other than the switch. It will keep frying them until you find the source. I would start by checking all the lamp sockets on the right side. Try unhooking the lamp sockets and the hook a test lead to the terminal on the switch that fried. If it does not heat up and start to fry with the sockets unhooked, you then know your problem is in the sockets and not the harness. Also a good time to check the rear taillight assembly to see if it is full of water.

Dave
Didn't I say that in post # 4?
 
had the same thig happen to me. if this is a t&t col. then what you has is GM switch for chryslers . had one in 74 imp did the same thing just wired the 2 to each other. ran fine no problems. Now have 71 imp with the same problem all c bodies from 70 and up with T&T COL. ALL USED GM SWITCH. WAS CHEAPER TO USE SOME ONE ELSE'S STUFF AND CHARGE MORE FOR THE CAR. LOOK AT THE PLUG IN ON THE SWITCH YOU WILL SEE DELCO REMY ON IT.
 
had the same thig happen to me. if this is a t&t col. then what you has is GM switch for chryslers . had one in 74 imp did the same thing just wired the 2 to each other. ran fine no problems. Now have 71 imp with the same problem all c bodies from 70 and up with T&T COL. ALL USED GM SWITCH. WAS CHEAPER TO USE SOME ONE ELSE'S STUFF AND CHARGE MORE FOR THE CAR. LOOK AT THE PLUG IN ON THE SWITCH YOU WILL SEE DELCO REMY ON IT.
I worked for Chrysler and G.M. for many years. Although G.M. makes the tilt columns for Chrysler the internal parts are different. Also G.M. uses a different connector for the switch.
 
Didn't I say that in post # 4?
The short part yes. Figuring out where the short is, is not always so simple. Most of the time, it will be a bulb socket that either has water in it or has gone to ground. To try and eliminate a harness short, it usually works best to unhook the bulb sockets to see if the circuit still heats up. Usually a harness short will be in the vehicle trunk from the cable being beat to death and rubbed raw from stuff going in and out of the trunk. I suspect you already know this but there might be other members who do not.

Dave
 
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The short part yes. Figuring out where the short is, is not always so simple. Most of the time, it will be a bulb socket that either has water in it or has gone to ground. To try and eliminate a harness short, it usually works best to unhook the bulb sockets to see if the circuit still heats up. Usually a harness short will be in the vehicle trunk from the cable being beat to death and rubbed raw from stuff going in and out of the trunk. I suspect you already know this but there might be other members who do not.

Dave
In my opinion, if the harness were shorted it should have blown the fuse, (unless someone put in one with a higher amp rating). That is why I suggested he look at the bulbs, if overheated, they could cause a high draw without blowing the fuse.
 
In my opinion, if the harness were shorted it should have blown the fuse, (unless someone put in one with a higher amp rating). That is why I suggested he look at the bulbs, if overheated, they could cause a high draw without blowing the fuse.

You bring up a good point, if the folks Tom had working on it could not find the short, they might have just stuck in a higher amp rating fuse and hoped for the best. Over the years I have seen smoked components from foil wrapped fuses, coins jammed next to the fuses and grossly over sized fuses.

Dave
 
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