Suggestions for distributor, 383 fuel injected

Engine, Transmission & Driveline

  1. Biggredd2069

    Biggredd2069 Active Member

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    So I recently added a pertronix electronic ignition to my distributor (just the under cap style). Unplanned shortly after I decided to upgrade to a FItech fuel injection system. They advised my vacuum advance on dizzy is not working proper and had to advance it quite a bit to account for it not working right. They advised I should upgrade the distributor and get one with an electronic advance system. Naturally they suggested an MSD set up that costs $800. I'm not really looking to do something that crazy. I was told it was upgraded to a slightly more aggressive cam a few years before I bought the car but It's a relatively stock 383 otherwise but with fuel injection now. The car runs pretty good but has a slight hesitation on hard initial acceleration which they said is cause of the vacuum advance. Figured I'd ask here about suggestions for a reasonable distributor for my set up that isn't going to break the bank. I like hard acceleration but otherwise this is just a cruiser car. I'm not trying to win any races but I want it to run right and good.
     
  2. Xenon

    Xenon Senior Member

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    Pull the vacuum from a different location..
    A port in rear of intake..
    T off the power brake line..
     
  3. 66Newyorker

    66Newyorker Active Member

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    For a daily driver no need for the MSD. If the distributor is original to your car good chance the bushing are worn and unstable timing. You can get a new unit from Rockauto, 1974 400 engine or halifaxhops could put one together for you from a core. For the ignition module I like the FBO kit with the coil. Harness you can get from Jegs or Summit.
    With the FBO module you can bypass or delete the resistor and made in USA. Under $400.00 total
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2019
  4. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Try ricks-mopars | eBay Stores These are the factory style electronic upgrades with the new distributor and everything to make the conversion. If you scroll thru the site the conversion comes up. About $165 and high quality.

    Update, I did not see this item currently listed, you can e-mail Rick at rehren_hywu6397h@members.ebay.com

    Dave
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2019
  5. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    • Agree Agree x 2
  6. 1978 NYB

    1978 NYB Warfighter FCBO Gold Member

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    I would go with the standard Mopar electronic ignition system used between 73 and early 76. Easy install and very dependable.

    Or you can go the MDS route......

    20181013_095944.jpg
     
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  7. CBODY67

    CBODY67 Senior Member

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    I believe the issue with any aftermarket EFI system is the signal that comes from the distributor's electronics. That should be mentioned in the instructions for the EFI kit, I believe. Possibly with a list of acceptable distributors? Some of the EFI units are capable of controlling the ignition timing map, too.

    Rather than talk to their Tech people, you might just go into their website and download installation instructions and such (which should include the issues regarding the distributors their product will work with).

    If the system now works with the distributor you've got, then get a new vac advance can for the existing distributor. As the distributor and vacuum unit, plus base timing, are calibrated for "ported vacuum", start with that vacuum source. When I've tried to use manifold vacuum instead, things just did not work right. But for systems that use manifold vacuum as the OEM vacuum source, then things work as they should.

    Just some thoughts,
    CBODY67
     
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  8. halifaxhops

    halifaxhops Well-Known Member

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    Totally agree use ported Vacuum on a new vacuum advance. If you use manifold vacuum the vac advance will go full advance from the start. The ported usually kicks in around 1200 rpm or so.
     
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  9. 78Brougham

    78Brougham Deplorable FCBO Gold Member

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    Maybe your mechanic is using the wrong vacuum source. I've seen a lot of mechanics think they're all manifold vacuum not realizing that our Mopars, for the most part are ported.
     
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  10. Biggredd2069

    Biggredd2069 Active Member

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    Just so I can take a look can you remind me where the ported vacuum is?
     
  11. CBODY67

    CBODY67 Senior Member

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    Ported vacuum comes from the carb baseplate. Check/download the instructions for your EFI unit to verify. Little to no vacuum at hot base idle. Usually, the vacuum advances are calibrated to need about 5" Hg to start their advance function. Usually "all in" by 14" HG (or a slight bit sooner).

    CBODY67
     
  12. 78Brougham

    78Brougham Deplorable FCBO Gold Member

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    Baseplate yes but more importantly above the throttle plate. I'm not sure what your efi stop looks like but you must use a vacuum port that terminates above the throttle plate so vacuum is applied as the throttle plates open. Opposite to a manifold vacuum source which can be on the carburetor base plate also.
     
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  13. furious70

    furious70 Active Member

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    Fyi for those doing efi and ign management in one box a lean burn dizzy is the handy man way to get a locked dizzy that the computer can then do all advance.
    You just have to check rotor phasing and install the dizzy at 60* btdc usually (a configuration in your box)
     
  14. Biggredd2069

    Biggredd2069 Active Member

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    I'll take a picture of it later today and post
     
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  15. Biggredd2069

    Biggredd2069 Active Member

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    The vacuum is on the back of the efi head 20190809_171741.jpg
     
  16. 78Brougham

    78Brougham Deplorable FCBO Gold Member

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    If that the Orange one going to the distributor it looks right. Just make sure it's ported, no vacuum at idle.