Surface rust removal

Big blubber

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Ok guys while investigating a leak at the passenger side front foot well ,I came across , some surface rust and I want to treat it asp ,What's the best way to do it , wire brush it sand blast it , Then do I rust treat it and prime ,Or do I treat the bare metal with just a Hammerite paint need some info please

image.jpg
 
Depends.. How far you wanna go?? Is there a lot of deep pitting?

If not, at the very least I'd wire wheel it as clean as you can get it, then treat it. If your questioning the integrity of the metal, I'd pick up a needle scaler-

http://www.harborfreight.com/compact-air-needle-scaler-96997.html

and go to town on it. I LOVE this tool. If there is any holes/weak spots to be found, this tool will find em.

Looks pretty solid from here though.. Might be a little over kill with the scaler. But I'm too used to rusty cars now.. lol
 
Everyone has an own opinion on what to treat/paint with. A good primer, and top coat should be good.

I'm hoping to use rustbullet when the time comes for mine. $Pricey$ stuff though...
 
I am a cup grinder kind of guy myself. That way I get it to bare metal and find out if I actually might have some pin holes or worse. If it is all surface rust then do the POR 15 route: degrease, acid etch, paint. That is just what I personally use.

If you get it to bare metal a self etching primer and a couple of top coats will work too.
 
Depends.. How far you wanna go?? Is there a lot of deep pitting?

If not, at the very least I'd wire wheel it as clean as you can get it, then treat it. If your questioning the integrity of the metal, I'd pick up a needle scaler-

http://www.harborfreight.com/compact-air-needle-scaler-96997.html

and go to town on it. I LOVE this tool. If there is any holes/weak spots to be found, this tool will find em.

Looks pretty solid from here though.. Might be a little over kill with the scaler. But I'm too used to rusty cars now.. lol
Yes it's solid mostly surface rust , How does the scaler work I noticed it's got small rods on it do they rotate , Or is it a vibrating type
 
I am a cup grinder kind of guy myself. That way I get it to bare metal and find out if I actually might have some pin holes or worse. If it is all surface rust then do the POR 15 route: degrease, acid etch, paint. That is just what I personally use.

If you get it to bare metal a self etching primer and a couple of top coats will work too.
Is the acid etch ,The same as a brush on rust inhibiter
 
Yes same idea there is stuff you brush on or I have some in a spray can. No rinsing required with those products too
.
Thanks going to try the wire wheel option ,the now and see what happens then I post some pics of ,The bare metal so as you guys can see it
 
The tool vibrates the rods up and down, which smacks the metal.

Short vid-
https://youtu.be/t6f-Smtph8Y

I've got a thread going for it..

http://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/showthread.php?11225-Thanks-tallhair

The smaller needle scalers work good on thicker sheet metal (floors/wheel wells/rocker panels). But I wouldn't be using it on thinner exterior metal (doors/quarters/fenders).
That looks a great tool , If it's just surface which I think it is the scaler would be ok ,But if it's a bit more corroded it might go through it ,But I suppose I would need to find out one way or the other .
 
We call that a needle gun and it is commonly used on ships to remove paint and rust scale.

In the trunk or anywhere there is just surface rust which always have tiny surface pits. So I strip paint off with a 7" 3M stripping disc, then wire wheel the affected area and finally rub deep into the area some Picklex 20 and let sit for 1 minute. After that I epoxy prime with a non-acid epoxy primer.
 
I agonized over all this rust converter stuff, did a ton of research and decided that all those products out there is simply, in one fancy form or another this chemical.
I used it. IT WORKS!!!! It's cheap. Did I say IT WORKS?


http://www.amazon.com/Skyco-Ospho-S..._sbs_60_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0S3HWAP4D0RVN6YKB7H9

31pYwvpI4zL.jpg


After a vigorous workout with this first of course:


weiler-cup-wheel-brushes.jpg
Finally, encapsulate the treated area with an OIL BASED paint such as Rustoleum.
 
I agonized over all this rust converter stuff, did a ton of research and decided that all those products out there is simply, in one fancy form or another this chemical.
I used it. IT WORKS!!!! It's cheap. Did I say IT WORKS?


http://www.amazon.com/Skyco-Ospho-S..._sbs_60_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0S3HWAP4D0RVN6YKB7H9

31pYwvpI4zL.jpg


After a vigorous workout with this first of course:


weiler-cup-wheel-brushes.jpg
Finally, encapsulate the treated area with an OIL BASED paint such as Rustoleum.
Well if it's good enough for you ,Stan it's good enough for me I will look it up and maby try it .I have used a product like it called ,Kurust I don't know if you've heard of it They may be similar I don't know , I suppose these products are all alike ,
 
Basically you want a liquid solution of phosphoric acid in the highest concentration you can buy, usually 85%.
 
Basically you want a liquid solution of phosphoric acid in the highest concentration you can buy.
Ok I need to study more on this I want to get the ,Right rust inhibiter i know it won't cure it but it should keep it at bay for a while . Cheers
 
I agonized over all this rust converter stuff, did a ton of research and decided that all those products out there is simply, in one fancy form or another this chemical.
I used it. IT WORKS!!!! It's cheap. Did I say IT WORKS?


http://www.amazon.com/Skyco-Ospho-S..._sbs_60_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0S3HWAP4D0RVN6YKB7H9

31pYwvpI4zL.jpg


You're paying WAY too much for it. You can get the same thing at Home Depot for 1/4 the price. They call it prep and etch, in the box stores it's sold as concrete etchant, $15/gal. Same stuff, same instructions, read the MDS, I know you do.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Strip-1-gal-Phosphoric-Prep-and-Etch-GKPA30220/100406369
 
Are these scalers safe to use on inside of body panels(rear 1/4 panels) to remove undercoating?
 
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