Sway Bar Link Bushings, 1971 Fury GT

1970FuryConv

Old Man with a Hat
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I am doing a suspension rebuild on my 1971 Fury GT.
Front sway bar has a broken link on the right side, as you can see in the picture.
Most fuselage sway bars are 7/8 inch diameter, at least that I have seen.
The original 1971 Fury GT sway bar is 15/16 inch diameter.
Bushing kits like Moog K7061 are 7/8 inch diameter. From researching last night on our website, I can see that in the formal years Chrysler introduced larger sway bars for 440 motors.
I'm wondering if anyone with a fuselage Mopar that has links for hangers, rather than being bushed directly below the frame like the formal C – body cars, has ever run into a 15/16 inch diameter sway bar and what bushings to use with the links?
Does anyone have a source for those bushings?
Could I have them custom-made?
What other cars had the 15/16 diameter sway bar?

1971 15/16 sway bar
PXL_20221006_180803578 Sway Bar. Hanger Broken RS.jpg

Broken right side hanger, sway bar before removed
PXL_20221003_164143258.jpg

1971 15/16" sway bar at top
1970 7/8" sway bar at bottom
Plan is to reuse 1971 GT sway bar on the GT, but need a hanger bushing for 15/16 bar.
Plan is to use 7/8 sway bar on my 1970 Fury convertible 440/727, which has no sway bar.
PXL_20230410_190645085 1971 vs 1973. 1971 Hangers.jpg

I do have a spare large bushing hanger from my parts box, that looks like it might be for the larger sway bar. I think it is from a 1973 Fury, not sure.
Large hanger on left, small on right
PXL_20230410_190656477 1971 Hangers 2 different sizes.jpg

I need to know if I can get a bushing for the larger sway bar
Also, any info on fuselage cars other than Fury GT that used this larger sway bar would help.
@FURYGT
@Davea Lux
@saforwardlook
Thanks all C-body men for any help. Ben
 
I am doing a suspension rebuild on my 1971 Fury GT.
Front sway bar has a broken link on the right side, as you can see in the picture.
Most fuselage sway bars are 7/8 inch diameter, at least that I have seen.
The original 1971 Fury GT sway bar is 15/16 inch diameter.
Bushing kits like Moog K7061 are 7/8 inch diameter. From researching last night on our website, I can see that in the formal years Chrysler introduced larger sway bars for 440 motors.
I'm wondering if anyone with a fuselage Mopar that has links for hangers, rather than being bushed directly below the frame like the formal C – body cars, has ever run into a 15/16 inch diameter sway bar and what bushings to use with the links?
Does anyone have a source for those bushings?
Could I have them custom-made?
What other cars had the 15/16 diameter sway bar?

1971 15/16 sway bar
View attachment 591294
Broken right side hanger, sway bar before removed
View attachment 591293
1971 15/16" sway bar at top
1970 7/8" sway bar at bottom
Plan is to reuse 1971 GT sway bar on the GT, but need a hanger bushing for 15/16 bar.
Plan is to use 7/8 sway bar on my 1970 Fury convertible 440/727, which has no sway bar.
View attachment 591296
I do have a spare large bushing hanger from my parts box, that looks like it might be for the larger sway bar. I think it is from a 1973 Fury, not sure.
Large hanger on left, small on right
View attachment 591297
I need to know if I can get a bushing for the larger sway bar
Also, any info on fuselage cars other than Fury GT that used this larger sway bar would help.
@FURYGT
@Davea Lux
@saforwardlook
Thanks all C-body men for any help. Ben

Ben, have you looked up the factory part numbers or any Moog part numbers for the swaybar links? Having that information would be helpful and would allow me to check my parts inventory.
 
Ben, have you looked up the factory part numbers or any Moog part numbers for the swaybar links? Having that information would be helpful and would allow me to check my parts inventory.
Moog only lists K7061 which is for 7/8" sway bar.
MOOG Auto Part Finder | Vehicle Part Results
I looked up the sway bar, retainer, and bushing in the 1970-1971 Parts Catalog.
I only found one listing for each. I have a 1970 Sport Fury sway bar which is 7/8". I'm concerned that the sway bar in my GT is unique to the GT, which makes retainers or retainer bushings unavailable.
Did you measure the diameter of the sway bar in your 1971 GT? Did you have to obtain new retainers or retainer bushings?
1970-1971 Parts Catalog.jpg
 
with that stuff the extra expense is the pressure pot used to pull a vacuum and air out of the polyurathane. ive casually looked for used equipement. you could always try it without de-airing
 
with that stuff the extra expense is the pressure pot used to pull a vacuum and air out of the polyurathane. ive casually looked for used equipement. you could always try it without de-airing
A lot of people are 3D printing molds. I don't know or have access to 3D printing.
Also, I'm not sure that polyurethane is malleable enough to slide over the wide flat end of the sway bar.
 
Your right about the need to stretch. But possibly because of its stiffness polyU bushing could be split. Otherwise they do have pourable rubber. And I do have access to 3d design and printing. Doing some now for the fury and will show when done.
 
bushings?
1970-1971-parts-catalog-jpg.jpg

Ben, I have not measured mine as they are in good shape. You may want to check the police/taxi section of the parts book. You may also want to check with PST and other places that offer larger aftermarket sway bars and see if they offer a sway bar that is the same diameter and if so, they may have the bushings that you are looking for.
 
Here are polyurethanes of different hardnesses. 770 is most flexible and pourable without needing degassing. Haven't used them yet.

PMC™ Series, Polyurethane Rubber Compounds

View attachment 591413

View attachment 591414
Sway bar retainer bushings have ridges at the outside to keep them from sliding out of the retainer.
Could a polyurethane 2-part bushing have ridges and be malleable enough to install with sway bar already through the retainer? Moog bushing pictured.
Could you make this bushing in rubber or polyurethane given the dimensions of the retainer and the diameter of the sway bar?
If so, any idea of cost?
cq5dam.thumbnail.319.319.png
 
The video I linked to uses the mtrl I circled and the dude seems happy with his DIY results. But when I called the Smooth On company they said the mtrl does not perform well over time when exposed to greases and oils. Evidentially the commercial products have extra vulcanization processing that results in a more stable process. He did say people who have mostly show cars use it (not so much grease). That just muddies the decision. I would be more worried in a an application that requires more work to replace. Sway bar seems low risk. Anyway the mtrl plus shipping is $75 and yes making the mold with a 3d printer is possible with measurements of what you have. The ridge thing is dependent on the mtrl which I've never poured. The 770 stuff he used looks compressible but in general I think it looks too soft. Probably deserves its own thread or private if we want to go any farther.
 
One day the 3d print mtrls themselves will be bushing worthy....

1681497200391.png
 
I'd get a block of hard rubber or a suitable polyurethane and have the stuff cut to form. That strikes me as the easiest way to get a set of 15/16" bushings for that Fury GT. I'd also make several sets of them, once a good model had been made, and store the extras very carefully.
 
The video I linked to uses the mtrl I circled and the dude seems happy with his DIY results. But when I called the Smooth On company they said the mtrl does not perform well over time when exposed to greases and oils. Evidentially the commercial products have extra vulcanization processing that results in a more stable process. He did say people who have mostly show cars use it (not so much grease). That just muddies the decision. I would be more worried in a an application that requires more work to replace. Sway bar seems low risk. Anyway the mtrl plus shipping is $75 and yes making the mold with a 3d printer is possible with measurements of what you have. The ridge thing is dependent on the mtrl which I've never poured. The 770 stuff he used looks compressible but in general I think it looks too soft. Probably deserves its own thread or private if we want to go any farther.
Thanks!
I clicked on the google search you linked and looked at some of the videos. I have no technical background in understanding rubber, polyurethane, or 3D printing. Maybe I will understand from watching it a 2nd time. Which of the videos in the Google search did you want me to look at?

As far as wear and tear, the car is probably going to be driven less than 1000 miles per year, based on how I drive my 1970 Fury convertible. The engine, steering gear, power steering pump will be rebuilt, so there should not be grease. The main thing is that it needs to be malleable enough to be installed on the retainer and then slide over the flat end of the sway bar or install with the retainer already in position on the sway bar. If it doesn't have a ridge, I'm concerned that the bushing might slide sideways.

Would the total cost be $75 or is there something in addition to what you mentioned?

As far as a private thread, if we do go forward with creating a bushing, a lot of members with similar problems could learn something from seeing how you did it. On the other hand, if you want a private thread I'm happy to open one.
 
I'd get a block of hard rubber or a suitable polyurethane and have the stuff cut to form. That strikes me as the easiest way to get a set of 15/16" bushings for that Fury GT. I'd also make several sets of them, once a good model had been made, and store the extras very carefully.
Thanks. What organization would cut it to form?
 
Facebook group 1970-71 Plymouth Fury GT & S23 says the 15/16 diameter bar is common to all 440 cars. Nick says he has removed them from New Yorker's.

Another member, Bill, says he has drilled the small diameter bushings out from 7/8" to 15/16" using light oil. I need to buy a drill bit.

Fortunately, the problem is not unique to my car.
 
anybody scan the QR code in my last post? I love this ****. This forum is about sharing things related to our cars so a thread on DIY Polyurethane bushings might be more appropriate. As far as cost anybody like me doing this should assume full cost until the result provides value. $75 probably makes multiple pairs of bushings if the process is tested. But on the priority list my fury interior is number 1.

More later.. friday beer be good. ugh um yes burp shart

oh right - this is the video
diy polyurethane bushings - Google Search
 
Last edited:
anybody scan the QR code in my last post? I love this ****. This forum is about sharing things related to our cars so a thread on DIY Polyurethane bushings might be more appropriate. As far as cost anybody like me doing this should assume full cost until the result provides value. $75 probably makes multiple pairs of bushings if the process is tested. But on the priority list my fury interior is number 1.

More later.. friday beer be good. ugh um yes burp shart

oh right - this is the video
diy polyurethane bushings - Google Search
:lol:beer burp. Understood. shart?

Scan QR code: I use a PC, Old eyes need Big screen.

I watched the video. Seems seems doable when 3D printing is available to make molds.

Understand your priorities. I'll try to drill out 7/8 bushings to 15/16 before we go further. Thanks! Ben
 
Thanks. What organization would cut it to form?

I'd DIY it bro. Get a GOOD diamond dusted hole saw for the 15/16" hole, and use my small Proxxon table saw w a diamond edged blade to cut the rubber or poly into the approximate shape for the link straps. I'd then use my mini jig saw to cut the upper corners down a tad or pubic hair, leaving them a red pubic hair over sized for a snug fit, and would then use plenty soap to lube things and press them into the links, then slide the links onto the swaybar. Really not too tough a job at all. One needs good material to start with; "butyl rubber" is the stuff used by most auto makers Back Then, but polyurethanes might be better.

FWIW, I'd cut the medium down to the links FIRST, THEN punch it w the hole saw.
 
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