Swaybar kits for the C body

I have both the front and rear sway bars from FF. Unfortunately I haven't had time to install the rear one yet, but I will say this. FF may be a bit more expensive, but their customer service is second to none. Their products are also top notch, well engineered and finished; which is rare in the C body world. The front sway bar made a big difference compared to the stock one, and hopefully the rear will add all the more. Save a little more to spring the FF, you won't be disappointed.
I agree with this 100%, right down to having the rear bar but not having installed it. In fact, that bar has been on my to-do list so long that when I recently went looking for the shackle-plate mounting brackets, I couldn't find them. After about 10 min of searching I looked under the car for some other reason and realized I had installed the brackets when I swapped to a narrower rearend - back around 2009!

IMHO the FF bars are worth the extra $$, however it may not be a justified extra expense for everyone. I had an Addco 1" front bar some years ago on my 70 300 and it made a nice difference. The FF attachment to the LCAs is superior IMO, as the OEM/Addco method of attaching to the strut rods puts the strut rod bushings into the equation and reduces response, especially as most strut rods will be worn where the factory bushings ride.

I have had 2 different Addco rear C-body bars over the years, about 10 years apart, and neither one would fit, not even close, no matter whether the bar was frame or axle mounted, nor pointing front or rear. I bought that 2nd bar hoping they'd fixed their design, and it was *exactly* the same situation. Although I haven't fitted my FF rear bar, I expect it will fit and perform great.

For anyone that's interested, I have a 1" PST bar for sale.
For Sale - P-S-T 1" front swaybar, mildly used
 
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Bad bushings will cause rattling. Bouncing up and down in straight driving is bad shocks. If you have all the original metal sway bar parts, you can get the rubber replacements, but it appears the square rubber bushings are secured by a spot-welded strap, which I think you must cut the weld and re-secure w/ a bolt. I didn't when I rebuilt my front end 20 yrs ago since that square rubber looked OK (still does).
 
I replaced the bushings at the ends and installed the new links from PST, (had to on those, the originals were spot welded and bushings not replaceable). What a difference! Ride improved dramatically.
 
I replaced the bushings at the ends and installed the new links from PST, (had to on those, the originals were spot welded and bushings not replaceable). What a difference! Ride improved dramatically.

I had the same issue and ended up cutting the old bushing out and using lots of grease and swear words to wedge the new one into the spot welded links. Congrats on getting it finished, it sure does make for a different ride!
 
I replaced all of the front end bushings. Came up with my own sway bar bushing to frame set up. Replaced the end link bushings. Car corners flat for a big car. If you would like pictures of the frame mounting let me know.
 
I replaced my front sway bar bushings about 10 weeks ago and yes, it made a HUGE improvement in handling and driving at interstate speeds. As soon as the weather cool;s down a bit down here, I'm finishing the rest of the front end as the strut rod bushings DO need replacing too. I'm apt to get polyurethane for those and might opt for poly for the sway bar too. Can't overstate how much better Mathilda rides with good rubber in the right places for now though.
 
I replaced my front sway bar bushings about 10 weeks ago and yes, it made a HUGE improvement in handling and driving at interstate speeds. As soon as the weather cool;s down a bit down here, I'm finishing the rest of the front end as the strut rod bushings DO need replacing too. I'm apt to get polyurethane for those and might opt for poly for the sway bar too. Can't overstate how much better Mathilda rides with good rubber in the right places for now though.

You might be fine with poly bushings in most of your suspension pieces, although I personally would not use them for the strut rods. I used the poly bushings in my 1970 Chrysler Newport Custom, and it turned a very smooth, outstanding riding vehicle into a huge nuisance to drive since it crashed and boomed over every little bump - it felt like I could have just put metal there and not used any bushings at all. Although it was a bit of a pain to replace them, I did so the very next day. It was the worst "upgrade" I ever did. What a relief to have normal rubber strut bushings now.
 
You might be fine with poly bushings in most of your suspension pieces, although I personally would not use them for the strut rods. I used the poly bushings in my 1970 Chrysler Newport Custom, and it turned a very smooth, outstanding riding vehicle into a huge nuisance to drive since it crashed and boomed over every little bump - it felt like I could have just put metal there and not used any bushings at all. Although it was a bit of a pain to replace them, I did so the very next day. It was the worst "upgrade" I ever did. What a relief to have normal rubber strut bushings now.
I put a set in my 68 (along with a bunch of other stuff) and didn't notice anything overall that was harsh upon hitting bumps (but the car is considerably stiffer overall with FF T-bars and swaybar). I wonder if it is a difference between the Slab's solid-mt subframe vs a Fusey's isolated one? Although I would think the Slab would be harsher with no isolation???
 
You might be fine with poly bushings in most of your suspension pieces, although I personally would not use them for the strut rods. I used the poly bushings in my 1970 Chrysler Newport Custom, and it turned a very smooth, outstanding riding vehicle into a huge nuisance to drive since it crashed and boomed over every little bump - it felt like I could have just put metal there and not used any bushings at all. Although it was a bit of a pain to replace them, I did so the very next day. It was the worst "upgrade" I ever did. What a relief to have normal rubber strut bushings now.

Thanks for that data! OK, I'll stick with nice natural vulcanized rubber for the strut rods. I DEEPLY appreciate it when folks can tell me something that helps me avoid a big mistake! I think it would be good for the sway bar though, where I want strength and FIRM support and contact. Much easier to undo if I don't like the results too.
 
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