The Boat is Sinking...

[Jon O.]

(1972 Newport) Today I drove somewhere and it started to sprinkle. By the time I was driving back, it was raining a normal amount. When I got back home, I noticed a dark spot on my rear seat. Sure enough I touched it and it was soaked. I of course I took out the rear seat, wiped and cleaned up all of the water, and vacuumed the seats. First time I have driven the car in the rain since September. For those of you that don't know the car, it has the factory undercoating in great condition, and is 99.99% rust free. The water appears to originate passenger side in the abyss at the front of the trunk. Any tips?

 

[commando1]

Look at the drain trough that runs around the trunk opening. The corner closest to the passenger side hinge rots out quite often.
That's for starters.

 

[Jon O.]

Look at the drain trough that runs around the trunk opening. The corner closest to the passenger side hinge rots out quite often.
That's for starters.

Just went and looked at it. It appears ok, and is still all very pliable. There is a dirt line where it seals to the trunk too, so it appears like it seals. No water in that part of the trunk either, I pulled up the mat. I also checked the passenger door seal. It was also good and pliable. The water came from behind and underneath the seat. It was wet right about where your keister would be on the seat. It was wet the most on the floor right under the seat. You know those plastic plugs in the floor? I thought it may have been one of those, but how could that spray water up the back of the seat?

 

[traintech55]

A great trick for finding a water leak is to close up the car, turn the defrosters on high, and spray around the suspected area with soapy water, (just like a tire), when you get bubbles you have your leak. BINGO.

 

[Jon O.]

A great trick for finding a water leak is to close up the car, turn the defrosters on high, and spray around the suspected area with soapy water, (just like a tire), when you get bubbles you have your leak. BINGO.

Wow good idea. Ill try that. That part of the car needs some soap anyways.

 

[Jon O.]

Tried that, and no bubbles. There is visible water damage on the floor, but none anywhere else. I thought maybe the back windshield is leaking. After pouring gallons of water on it, that would be a no.
Good news though, I found build sheet #3 for this car! Also some kind of tag too. Still can't find the water though.

 

[73 T&C]

Wheel well???? Where it meets the floor pan by the seat? Spray off the tire coming in??? Pull up the wires to check that area as well.

I would also check the front of the wheel well where it meets the outer fender for any rust holes.

 

[traintech55]

Is the water coming clear or dirty? clean water is from above, dirty is from under the car. Keep spraying the soapy water, you WILL find it.

 

[Jon O.]

It is leaking at the window! I was putting the seats in and saw a drop of water come from above me. It is right at the pass. side corner. What can I do to fix this?
I have red rtv gasket maker, that is all I have to use in this pinch can I use that? It is leaking pretty bad... Normally I wouldn't even think of it on such a nice survivor, but i'm in a state of emergency!

 

[traintech55]

It is leaking at the window! I was putting the seats in and saw a drop of water come from above me. It is right at the pass. side corner. What can I do to fix this?
I have red rtv gasket maker, that is all I have to use in this pinch can I use that? It is leaking pretty bad... Normally I wouldn't even think of it on such a nice survivor, but i'm in a state of emergency!

I believe your rear window is held in by a rubber molding and not glued in, This is a job to have done by a GOOD glass shop. Let them look at it, and maybe it could be resealed. Most times though the rubber has gotten old and needs to be replaced. You can get replacement rubber from Steele Rubber Products. Good Luck. (The price they charge is a lot cheaper than a broken glass).

 

[Jon O.]

I believe your rear window is held in by a rubber molding and not glued in, This is a job to have done by a GOOD glass shop. Let them look at it, and maybe it could be resealed. Most times though the rubber has gotten old and needs to be replaced. You can get replacement rubber from Steele Rubber Products. Good Luck. (The price they charge is a lot cheaper than a broken glass).

It is some kind of sealer that started out as a liquid. It is black, and is still tacky/sticky to the touch and moveable. I put a tiny amount of of sealant around the corner on the inside and wiped it off really well, you wouldn't be able to tell it was there unless you searched for it. Since I can't cover the car up, I did it just to get it to stop leaking for the night. So far no water has dripped in an hour. I don't want a nice original car to be ruined by dampness and rust, so that was my temporary fix. Ill get in contact with a glass shop when I can.

P.S. The spot leaking visually has way less sealant than the rest of the window. I'm guessing it hasn't been leaking very long. The seats still look as nice as they always have with no water stains.

 

[LeBaron1973]

That tag you found under the seat lists the information for that seat - rear seat for 1972 Dodge Newport etc.

 

[CBODY67]

IF you remove the outer rear glass molding, you'll probably find a place near the lower corner that has become a new "water drain" over the years. GM's were very bad about that, starting in about '71. 3M came out with AlumaLead just for that fix!

The water will pool in the lower corners. If there's not a good coat of paint there, rust will happen over time. No place for the pooled water to drain to, as that's the lowest place on the sheet metal.

The rear glass should be held in with windshield urethane sealer. Like the front windshield. In the short term, you can clean out the residue under the molding area and put some of the same sealer over the cleaned-up "hole" area. Then put the molding back on and do a better fix later. Some POR-15, as others have used, sealer and body filler, might be a good choice. Best fix would be to remove the rear window glass, grind and clean everything up, then put the appropriate body filler in place, as the AlumaLead, refinish, and such.

Knowing about the issues with the GM back glasses, when we got our '72 Newport Royal, I got some of the black "strip caulk" and put it around the bottom and sides of the rear glass molding, ensuring that the water would drain over it. Has seemed to work as it's still there. Helped a little with the front windshield wind noise, too.

Keep us posted,
CBODY67

 

[Jon O.]

IF you remove the outer rear glass molding, you'll probably find a place near the lower corner that has become a new "water drain" over the years. GM's were very bad about that, starting in about '71. 3M came out with AlumaLead just for that fix!

The water will pool in the lower corners. If there's not a good coat of paint there, rust will happen over time. No place for the pooled water to drain to, as that's the lowest place on the sheet metal.

The rear glass should be held in with windshield urethane sealer. Like the front windshield. In the short term, you can clean out the residue under the molding area and put some of the same sealer over the cleaned-up "hole" area. Then put the molding back on and do a better fix later. Some POR-15, as others have used, sealer and body filler, might be a good choice. Best fix would be to remove the rear window glass, grind and clean everything up, then put the appropriate body filler in place, as the AlumaLead, refinish, and such.

Knowing about the issues with the GM back glasses, when we got our '72 Newport Royal, I got some of the black "strip caulk" and put it around the bottom and sides of the rear glass molding, ensuring that the water would drain over it. Has seemed to work as it's still there. Helped a little with the front windshield wind noise, too.

Keep us posted,
CBODY67

Problem is the original vinyl top is in great shape, and the trim goes right over it. Will it have to be destroyed to get to it?

 

[CBODY67]

The molding clips are accessed from the glass side of things. I doubt the vinyl material is stuck to the trim pieces. Just be careful with the removal tool to gently disengage the molding from the clips, so you don't damage the glass.

Probably just need to clean things out, scuff the metal/paint to get it cleaned, and put some sealer on it. With the vinyl roof, some additional masking and finesse with the ScotchBrite (or similar) might be needed.

CBODY67

 

[Jon O.]

My temporary fix is still holding back the water. Also a tip for you go-doers:
While I had the rear seat out, I had some sound-deadening material in the garage so I put a layer between the trunk and the factory panel that was already behind the seat. And wow it made a big difference in road noise.

 

[Moparwilks]

That broadcast sheet and tin tag look almost new! I Didn’t think you had floor holes.

 

[Jon O.]

That broadcast sheet and tin tag look almost new! I Didn’t think you had floor holes.

I don't have floor holes, not even close. In that picture I didn't even clean it up yet.

 

[cm23uoc]

There's still a puff left in that cigarette butt from the 70s.

 

[Jon O.]

There's still a puff left in that cigarette butt from the 70s.

The ashes are still in the armrest ash tray.