The Road Shark - 1966 Chrysler 300 Project

Those blue tarps are horrible for holding moisture under them, and on your car! You are better off to buy a cheaper 5-6 layer outdoor car cover. I have been having to store my wagon outside since I lost my additional storage earlier this year. :( It's been outside in the driveway under the 5 layer car cover I bought for it many years ago. It does a pretty good job of keeping it safe. Bit of dust and debris gets blown up under the car cover, but I'd say 99.5% of all rain and moisture is kept out. And the moisture that does get in under it....can evaporate and move back through the car cover so it can dry out.
 
Boomer I have the FSM for the 66 Chrysler 300. If you need any info or diagrams in the short term let me know I will scan and email you the pages.
 
Thanks Dobalovr. I've got the '66 Imperial/Chrysler manual in digital and hard copy so far, still collecting other documentation as I go. Will let you know if I run into problems finding info. Was just chuckling while reading your thread on the instrument cluster. Pulled the connector on mine last week (gory details coming in another update soon) and it brought 2 pins with it. Heading over to add a response to it.

Those blue tarps are horrible for holding moisture under them, and on your car! You are better off to buy a cheaper 5-6 layer outdoor car cover.

It's good to get a first hand description, having never owned(or needed) a car cover. It was in the future plan, but I was caught flat-footed when the car arrived with a previously-unmentioned leak. The tarp wasn't at all meant to be a long term solution, but the effing 12 days of rain we got made it so. Another 'live and learn' moment brought to you by CRS and other signs of the aging process.
 
Haven't had a lot of time the last few weeks to work on the car. Been to NYC, St Paul, and celebrated my daughter's 3rd birthday instead.

Aside from a recent wrestling match with the front directional light bulbs (which I lost), my previous visit involved trying to get some of the interior and dash lights working again. At some point it had 4 way flashers added to it which only function on one side and need to be sorted out as well.

As mentioned before, the interior suffers from moisture damage caused by a leaky heater core and what looks like being left to sit that way for a looooong time. Chrome headliner trim is a mess, etc.

Sure enough, my worst fears were realized when I crawled under the dash to inspect the wiring and fuse block. See attached photo. I have some cleaning to do. Might just replace the fuse block, we'll see.

After becoming completely frustrated with the turn signal bulbs the other day, I decided to just start it up and let it run for a few minutes, not long enough to overheat again though. It started hard, but finally coughed and sputtered to life.

Then an amazing thing happened, again. The dash lights came on. This is the second time they've worked. Not the idiot lights, just the illumination. And this time they stayed on. But like everything else so far on this car, the Mopar Gods giveth and taketh away. Popped the hood just to check things under there as as I'm standing there a loud *tap*tap*tap* starts right under the driver's side valve cover. Sticky valve or lifter by the sounds. I shut it right down.

Will probably give it a little Seafoam to drink then change the oil, see if that fixes it. Been running rough off and on anyhow, so maybe it will chase out some other gremlins. With the radiatior leak and now this, it feels like I'm losing ground instead of gaining. Two and a half months and it's still not on the road reliably.

Fusebox1.jpg
 
Yup Ive seen that fuse block before...same look my American 66 has. Cleaned it up replaced fuses and voila dash lights then 30 seconds later radio started smoking...sigh. As you said Mopar Gods giveth...Now I am on the hunt for a replacement radio that isnt $500 and is a non smoker. Read a few posts here about rebuilders so that might be the way to go. Dont give up on her tho I look at it as we are curators of a mobile museum that needs to be seen by the plastic driving public reminding them that real steel is not a movie starring Hugh Jackman!
 
Thank you. I think the '66 300 is about as good as it gets in the 'looks' dept.

Dont give up on her tho I look at it as we are curators of a mobile museum that needs to be seen by the plastic driving public reminding them that real steel is not a movie starring Hugh Jackman!

Oh, I have no intention of giving up. It's too cool of a ride to let go. Problem is, due to current time issues I'm getting nowhere fast. It's looking more like I'll need to take some of the money set aside for body/interior and just take it to someone and say 'make it start and drive reliably'. Tank needs to be drained, sender replaced, front brakes need to be bled, new belts, stuff like that. And the now-leaky radiator. The kickdown linkage needs to be reconnected to the carb, too. I seem to recall it's not too good for the tranny to drive with it unhooked.

Hoping to squeeze out some time this weekend to dump in some Seafoam and see if it cures the lifter issue. My hope is that it will start up and run without sticking, at least long enough for the stuff to do its job. It needs an oil change anyhow. Then find someone who still knows what a carburetor is and have them give it a good going over so at least it can be driven around without fear of stalling and not restarting.

After that I can dink around with the other things as time allows. Was up in MD last weekend on business and got to pick up some wheels and tires for my '55 IH pickup that have been stored in PA. So the time wasn't a total loss, just none available for the Chrysler. Have to mow and mulch leaves along with other household chores this weekend. #$@%&*!!

Wish there's was more to update!
 
Managed to get most of my chores done yesterday with a few minutes to spare before dark to work on the car. Some success! Got the Shark to fire up easily with a shot of ether, runs a little rough still, like it's missing now and then, but no lifter issues and the Seamfoam has quieted things down considerably (not that it was horrible before). I suspect that getting 12 volts to the automatic choke on the Edlebrock carb might make a difference in starting, so I'm off to tackle that now.

It's amazing what you can do when you actually have a little time.....
 
Managed to get in a few hours Sunday with the 300 project. Decided to go for the low hanging fruit to make as much use of the time and warm weather wx was possible. The ol' girl started right up but still runs a bit rough. Spent a little time trying to hook up the electric choke then moved on to.....lights.

One of the big disappointments when the car arrived was how few things actually worked compared to the seller's description. No console lights, no dash lights, no map light, no trunk light, etc etc. After picking up a bunch of bulbs last month I dug into the interior lighting first. Moisture inside the car and trunk from leaks had created its own issues like stuck bulb bases. Broke the first console bulb trying to remove it, and spent half an hour figuring out how to get the map light bulb out.

I had been concerned that bad connections in some remote place under the dashboard would be the cause of all problems including the console. So imagine my surprise when the first new 1004 bulb lit up nice 'n bright. Replaced both in the side courtesy lights as well as the one in the map light. Voila - light galore! Also disassembled the vacuum gauge to find the #57 bulb in there is toast, but had no spare. Got some on order. The console shift lighting is out also, but I'm guessing(hoping) it's just burned out as well.

From there I moved to the trunk where things got a bit more nasty. The trunk light was still in place but pretty rusty. Spent over a half hour breaking tearing and yanking out the base. Flushed it well with WD-40 to get the crud out and help the contacts move more freely. The new bulb didn't fit well but, lo and behold, it actually worked. Next was a tail light bulb not lighting. Another bad bulb, another fight to the death trying to remove it. This time the socket ended up being toast, so I'll need to track down a replacement before continuing. Looks like it had been changed before.

Also tried to install the front directional bulbs in the bumper again. No luck, but did get one in far enough that it made contact and lit when the parking lights were on. Sockets are cleaned out and the springs seem to work fine, just need to get my wife out there with her smaller mitts to give it a try.

On the meatier side of things, the kickdown linkage had been disconnected at some point, perhaps due to the carb swap or who knows? Spent some time trying to decipher it using the manual. Decided I would post some photos and ask other owners before diving in too far. I did hook it back onto one of the pins but noticed when I revved the engine, the car tried to move backward a bit in park. So.....something for another day.

The best thing was - the Mopar Gods did not taketh away this time. Frequently when I tinker on the car I fix one or two small things and one or two new things break or come to light. This past weekend left me with a feeling of actual accomplishment again, like I was getting somewhere, forward progress and all that.

The plan at this point due to lack of time is to get it roadworthy enough to drive to a garage somewhere to have it looked over, maybe replace the vacuum advance and see why the engine runs rough. Needs an oil change, new belts, all that. Virtually no time now until next year, but I'll sneak in a minute here and there when I can.

Also found a neat little piece of history while cleaning out the quarter panels. A true blast from the past.

BadBulbsBAD.jpg


ConsoleMaplights.jpg


tail light socket.jpg


Trunklight.jpg


Linkage1.jpg


History.jpg
 
Boomer,
I'd pick up some Evapo-Rust for those nasty light sockets. The one in the trunk that you lubed up with WD you would need to flush with some electrical clear before soaking. The stuff does a pretty good job and isn't toxic, a plus. You can buy it at Advanced Auto.

https://www.evaporust.com/

It's always good to make progress even if it is small.
 
Thanks John. I used SeaFoam Deep Creep on that one, it was so bad. Problem now is that there's so little metal left on the socket and rust is so bad, I can't get a bulb back into it so it needs replacing.

I'll check out the Evaporust, sounds like it would be handy to have on hand for these little adventures.
 
Well, I spoke too soon on the Mopar Gods. Went out last night to get something out of the car after dark. Was expecting to be greeted with all that new light from the repaired interior lights.

Nothing. Total Darkness. Okay, I guess that's something, just not what I was hoping for.

Got a bad feeling the trunk light stayed on somehow. I checked as the lid came down and saw it go off, but who knows? Will throw the charger on it for a couple days and see what I find.

Still, if that's the worst of it, I still came out ahead. Looking forward to getting some time with the carb linkage next. Wife's birthday is Saturday though, so.....
 
Well, I spoke too soon on the Mopar Gods. Went out last night to get something out of the car after dark. Was expecting to be greeted with all that new light from the repaired interior lights.

Nothing. Total Darkness. Okay, I guess that's something, just not what I was hoping for.

Got a bad feeling the trunk light stayed on somehow. I checked as the lid came down and saw it go off, but who knows? Will throw the charger on it for a couple days and see what I find.

Still, if that's the worst of it, I still came out ahead. Looking forward to getting some time with the carb linkage next. Wife's birthday is Saturday though, so.....


See this is why I love these old girls...personality galore .. Just when you think you figured them out BAM hit you with a curve ball. When's the last time your Camry tested you like this Mr and Mrs import buyer? Kinda reminds me of my wife...just when I think I've got her figured.....curve ball..
:yes_no:
 
The door switch for the interior lights is a pretty simple design. Look in the area of the door jamb between the hinges for what looks like a nail head sticking out of a bolt. Give the nail head a twist while pulling on it and see if the lights come back on.
 
Thanks Greg -

Well, oddly enough, I went out for something else the next day, opened the door, and the interior lit up like an arcade. The passenger side switch is working mechanically but not electrically, will need to chase that down. Apparently the driver's side switch is sticking a bit because it did the same thing today (no lights), then came on a couple seconds later. Thought I had sprayed the switch with cleaner a while back, must've forgotten.

Replaced blown bulbs in the vacuum gauge and console shifter today. Turned on the lights, no joy. Diagram in the book shows a fuse in the circuit, that'll be the next culprit.

Need to catch up on more family chores for Christmas Eve and beyond, but hoping to sneak back out now that the latest monsoon has stopped.
 
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Went back out and no lights again. Jiggled the firewall connectors and on they came. Just cleaned and adjusted all of those contacts a couple months back, looks like something is still flaky.

Cleaned up the back sail dome lights, they were so yellowed it looked like someone had put lower wattage bulbs in. Scrubbed the lenses and made some improvement, but replacement is probably in their future. Just not high priority right now.

Also got the non-functioning backup lights functioning. Just a case of moisture and one bad bulb.

Done for the day - Wishing a safe and Merry Christmas to all.
 
One more note about the interior lights: if you grab the headlight knob and turn it fully counterclockwise, it should turn on the interior lights. These rheostats can also get rusty and become erratic.
 
Hope everyone had a safe & enjoyable Christmas & New Year's celebration if that's your thing. Pretty quiet here (aside from having a 3 yr old running around), very welcome for a change.

The headlight switch seems to be fine. It does activate the interior lighting when cranked all the way left, with a snap or click feeling. So I think all is well there. All the interior lights have worked fine the last few times I've been out to the car. All the problems so far seem to be directly related to moisture trapped inside and overall lack of use.

Haven't gotten much more done thanks to the holidays. Did manage to get the 4 way flashers working, so once I can manage to get the amber bulbs installed in the front, one backup bulb replaced, and the rusted out taillight socket replaced, all the outside lighting will be working. Got a replacement Standard brand bulb socket waiting in the wings.

Interior lighting left to address is mainly in the dashboard. The cluster needs to come out due to a couple of loose (pulled) pins from the circuit board. So far the main cluster has come back on by itself. Last night I started it and the cluster was dark, then came on half at a time. Weird. Also the ammeter bulb has lit back up. gas gauge is still dark, but it's dead anyhow.

Removing the instrument cluster looks like a lot of....fun? We'll see. I'm planning to retro fit it with a homemade harness or something more reliable than the old pins that are simply pressed into the old circuit board. Will install all new bulbs at that time and clean/test all the gauge and other connections before putting it back together.
 
new here. never posted anything ever. here goes. have a '65. had same issues. rheostat was definitely junk. instrument cluster has nuts holding the circuit board to housing. nuts provide ground to certain circuits. corrosion builds between nuts and copper circuit. real gremlin. had three problems with fuel gauge. brass float had small crack. boiled gas out over light bulb. don't get any gas on bulb 'cause it could crack the bulb and cause fire. drop of solder on crack. sender wasn't grounded to the fuel tank. last, had bad connection in instrument cluster. kick down on trans is shaft inside selector shaft. one shaft rusts too other. oil from outside, work kick down lever back and forth sometimes will be enough to free it. usually causes trans to get stuck in second. gear. some really sharp tranny guys on this board so help should be easy to come by. nice car. enjoy. SG
 
A lot of good info in that post, thank you. If the headlight rheostat is acting up, hopefully it's been due to crud on the control surfaces like the crud on everything else metal inside. If so, it must be cleaning itself up since the interior dome/map/console lights are reliably coming on every time now. Dash lights are still an issue but I know the cluster needs work and will be coming out in the future, so I can address all the contact issues and re-bulb it then.

Still haven't gotten to the gas gauge issue. That was one of the first I had planned to do, but so many other things needed fixing I chose the 'low-hanging fruit' approach to get as much done as possible in the little time available.

Temps back up into the 60s this weekend but also more rain. The plan is to get the new tail light socket soldered in and also rework the linkage on the carb, maybe even get the electric choke working.
 
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