Torsion bars

This is the Lucky recipient of the new front end stuff. Since she has the most miles on her by over 45000 compared to the other two and is driven a lot more, she is first on the list. View attachment 123231
I'm not against you upgrading your bars but knowing how much you like to take the roof and put it's wight into the trunk and the flexibility of a conv chassis I would not jump much. I do agree that TBs probably do "wear/sag" new ones will have to "settle" I would think so you probably need to keep a eye on the ride height for a while.
 
I just thought that was more "road feel" than chevys and fords LOL
Chevy's and Fords have no road feel. There are a dozen or so pieces of rubber and foam that make sure of that. Their uni body cars don't use rubber to isolate they just twist and bend to reduce NVH.
 
Chevy's and Fords have no road feel. There are a dozen or so pieces of rubber and foam that make sure of that. Their uni body cars don't use rubber to isolate they just twist and bend to reduce NVH.

yeah i was just making fun of their cushy no feel ride. Instead of 'more than' I should have said " unlike chevy and ford that had none"
 
As Big John indicates changing one aspect of the suspension will cause a domino effect of requirements all around. If you are going that route do the homework and get it all right but it sounds like more trouble (and $) than it's worth. IMHO KISS.
 
Have no road experience, but did install some original police spec T bars in the Monaco when doing the front end, along with new rubber, and kin shocks. Can tell a huge difference between from just pushing down on the car. Also from the short jaunts around the neighborhood. The car is much stiffer, and seems like the tires compress more then the actual suspension lol.

They are original 45 year old bars. But can tell a big difference with them still. Used to be able to push the car down a couple inches by hand. Now barely anything.

As Stan said, think you'll be more then happy with a police spec front end.
 
How did your bars come out? Give you any fits? I always hear horror stories about them not coming out. On the 2 cars I've done they slid right out with no problems. Kinda surprising with how rusty the Monaco was too.
 
I always hear horror stories about them not coming out. On the 2 cars I've done they slid right out with no problems
I was going to say that the TBs are a 15 minute change but then my Challenger comes to mind. My drivers side bar is a bear to get out no matter what, not rusty, been out a few times, just something not right with rear socket it looks fine must have been machined on a Monday or Friday? I usually have to unbolt the LCA pivots and tension strut and pry it back till almost out of rear socket then t bar remover will not slip, if it were the control arm o would have changed it but the socket in the cross member is too difficult for benefit.
 
How did your bars come out? Give you any fits? I always hear horror stories about them not coming out. On the 2 cars I've done they slid right out with no problems. Kinda surprising with how rusty the Monaco was too.

With ease and I've never done it. Real simple actually
 
I upgraded the suspension and steering systems on my 67 300 vert about 8 years ago. I went with Just Suspension and Firm Feel for my parts.
Torsion bars 1.16" dia
Front sway 1 1/8"
new strut rods and bushings
Tubular upper control arms
Firm Feels level 2 steering box
Rear leaf springs form Springs and Things
rear anti sway bar from FF
subframe connectors
Bilstein shocks all round.
I'm running 15x7 wheels and 235/70 15 tires.

I wouldn't call the ride stiff, I'd call it firm. In my opinion it rides much better than stock! A nice level well controlled ride, everyone likes the ride. Handling is much improved but NOT a sports car by any means...too much mass.
 
I opted to stay away from replacing the bars, The Firm Feel guy suggested I stay with what I have since I wasnt having any problems with my existing bars. Since they are much easier to deal with than I thought If I change my mind later I can swap them with ease
 
I upgraded the suspension and steering systems on my 67 300 vert about 8 years ago. I went with Just Suspension and Firm Feel for my parts.
Torsion bars 1.16" dia
Front sway 1 1/8"
new strut rods and bushings
Tubular upper control arms
Firm Feels level 2 steering box
Rear leaf springs form Springs and Things
rear anti sway bar from FF
subframe connectors
Bilstein shocks all round.
I'm running 15x7 wheels and 235/70 15 tires.

I wouldn't call the ride stiff, I'd call it firm. In my opinion it rides much better than stock! A nice level well controlled ride, everyone likes the ride. Handling is much improved but NOT a sports car by any means...too much mass.

Delicious. This is a fantastic set-up (though it costs a few shiny nickels, I'm sure). I have changed over a couple of Mopars to beefier torsion bars, much to my delight. I went up to a 1" bar on a '73 slant 6 Dart, and was mightily impressed. That is a significant jump given what the car came with, but no harshness was evident in the ride afterwards.

This, as you have mentioned, doesn't have to be done right away. If you choose, you can cruise along with what she was built with for a time while other upgrades are made, and swap them in later if desired. You will not have to worry about sacrificing ride quality, even with a measurable increase in TB diameter.
 
Yeah, I've had my car 12 yrs and have spent maybe 40K in repairs. That's been over that 12 yr period so my income tax refund practically takes car of my yearly expense. I did a calculation recently and price I paid to buy the car and the cost of my upgrades and upkeep thought of as a monthly payment turns out to be $50 per month. I don't think ANY has car payment that low!
 
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