Transmission crossmember?

jrm

Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2015
Messages
84
Reaction score
23
Location
ga
I am pulling the trans and need to remove the crossmember do I need to release tension on the torsion bars? If so how much?
Thanks. John
 
No.
The arms on the stub frame will need to be aligned back up with a jack when you go to reinstall the crossmember, tho.
 
If you own an Imperial, it would be wise to back off the torsion bars. The situation for those is significantly different and there are greater loads on the frame members in that area - the service manual also cautions about this.
 
Saforwardlook I have an 880. I haven't seen any cautions on this car.
Maybe i,ll back them off a few turns just in case, not hard to get it back to ride height afterwards. Thanks.
 
Don't know. ..... ramps or all four wheels up on blocks. I never even considered the bars pulling forward
This piqued my curiosity.
In thinking about it, when a car is on a 2 post, the front wheels drop down thus twisting the Torsion Bars which then, of course, would torque the frame more than if the wheels were supported and in their "normal" position.
 
This piqued my curiosity.
In thinking about it, when a car is on a 2 post, the front wheels drop down thus twisting the Torsion Bars which then, of course, would torque the frame more than if the wheels were supported and in their "normal" position.

Stan, the cross member with its center piece in place serves as the opposite reaction to the forces of the twisted torsion bar in order to support the car. If the longitudinal frame rails are supported on a two post lift, letting the front wheels fall, that would serve to unload the forces on the crossmember due to untwisting the torsion bar a little (since the weight of the car is no longer being supported - but the travel of the control arms limits unloading the torsion bars fully).

Thus, with the wheels dropping and unloading the torsion bars a little, the the downward force on the cross member ends that are weakend when the centerpiece is removed is also lessened, thereby lessening the twisting downward of those end pieces. Thus it would make reinstallation of the center piece a little easier.

Actually, it would be unwise to remove the center piece of the crossmember with the car supported on its wheels and the full twist of the torsion bars are in play. One could get hurt.

And Imperials just make the matter worse due to their relatively greater weight and load on the crossmember. A Dodge 880 though is not as bad a situation since it is pretty light.
 
No problems here removing the cross member without touching the bars. Car being on jackstands with wheels off the ground.

Stan has it right though. I've always had to use the jack to get the cross member back in the correct position.

Have heard of a couple rusty cars having broke the frame where the torsion bar goes in, after removing the cross member. I'd imagine they would have to be extremely rusty for this to happen though.
 
Why does there always have to be some kink with these cars? I was planning on using cribbing under each wheel to make getting the transmission out/in easier. But that's all shot to ****, at least with the front wheels. :/

Oh yea, one more thing. Does the engine need support or are the mounts going to hold it? In my younger days I'd have just yanked it and let the chip fall where they may so to speak. But I'm tiring of doing more work "just 'cause".. Besides being broke and all.
 
Last edited:
Brace across the fenders?

Like so?
1000 lb. Capacity Engine Support Bar
Exactly. Except I made mine out of 2x4's...

PicsArt_05-16-11.27.43.png


Your mileage length may vary...
 
Yeah I'll prolly visit the Home Despot but I'll most likely be using square steel tubing.
 
Back
Top