Tighten flex plate

65 Polara 500

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I need help. I noticed my flex plate was loose, but not the bolts to the Torque Converter. The bolts to the crank. I spent all day yesterday trying to figure out how to back the tranny up enough to tighten the bolts. An older gentleman climbed under the car with me and told me that I have to remove the crossmember, I removed the 8 bolts connecting the crossmember to the torsion bars. And the crossmember doesn’t want to budge. I need advice if there is an easier way, and am I going to destroy my car if I completely remove the crossmember? I have the car pretty well balanced on 5ton Jack stands, front and rear.
 
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I've never been under a 65 . However on a 69-73 which I am more familiar with I'm pretty certain there are 10 bolts. Two pointing up, one on each side of the transmission " between the rails" of the cross member.

I'm not certain you'll be able to separate the transmission from the engine enough to be able to tighten the crank bolts. I think you have to drop the transmission completely out of the way to tighten those correctly.
 
I will look to see if there are two bolts facing up. That would explain everything. Do I have to support anything more before I remove the crossmember? 4 5ton jacks and a tranny Jack supporting the weight thus far?
 
If you are comfortable with Jack stands it sounds like you're good.
You should support the engine somehow. Otherwise the engine oil pan is resting on the center link. We've all done it ( we shouldn't) .
 
Good Morning
Be advise that the torsion bars are anchored to a member that is bolted to the cross member - part of the torsion aire suspension. At least that is how it is on a '65 Newport.
To remove the cross member this piece needs to be removed first which means that the torsion bars need to be unloaded (ans probably removed to make room.
Omni
 
I need help. I noticed my flex plate was loose, but not the bolts to the Torque Converter. The bolts to the crank. I spent all day yesterday trying to figure out how to back the tranny up enough to tighten the bolts. An older gentleman climbed under the car with me and told me that I have to remove the crossmember, I removed the 8 bolts connecting the crossmember to the torsion bars. And the crossmember doesn’t want to budge. I need advice if there is an easier way, and am I going to destroy my car if I completely remove the crossmember? I have the car pretty well balanced on 5ton Jack stands, front and rear.
I'm not 100% sure on this, but I believe you have to back off the torsion bars to remove the crossmember.

Not doing that and managing to pry the crossmember out can get you hurt.
 
I'm not 100% sure on this, but I believe you have to back off the torsion bars to remove the crossmember.

Not doing that and managing to pry the crossmember out can get you hurt.
That is something I really need to know, I’m not even sure how all of this stuff works. I wish I had more knowledge in this stuff.
 
That is something I really need to know, I’m not even sure how all of this stuff works. I wish I had more knowledge in this stuff.
I own a 67 Polara 500 convertible. (Not sure if mounted the same) I recently pulled the motor and tranny out for a rebuild. I removed the 10 bolts and the center bolt in the tranny mount and was able to remove the crossmember. Luckily did not have to touch the torsion bars to remove.
 
Yes 2 more bolts that go straight up. Need to unload the torsion bars for best and easiest results putting it back together. You can get it apart without unloading the T-bars, but going together may go either way. You can try it and see. Not the most fun job on a C body. But you are most of the way there Now.

Once you get there, remove the bolts in th crank, clean with brake clean and use blue loctite.
 
Yes 2 more bolts that go straight up. Need to unload the torsion bars for best and easiest results putting it back together. You can get it apart without unloading the T-bars, but going together may go either way. You can try it and see. Not the most fun job on a C body. But you are most of the way there Now.

Once you get there, remove the bolts in th crank, clean with brake clean and use blue loctite.
Forgive me, but how do you unload the torsion bars?
 
I've removed the crossmember without messing with the torsion bars before, but you have to "pry" things back into place upon reinstalling the crossmember. It can be done, but probably not the best way.
I'm more curious as to how the flex plate bolts got loose in the first place. I've never seen that before.
 
Forgive me, but how do you unload the torsion bars?

From underneath of the vehicle on your back looking up you will see a bolt in the center of your Lower control arms. That is the adjuster for your torsion bars. They are usually stubborn, you'll need leverage.
You will also want to measure the height from the ground to the top of the wheel arch on the fender ( you're already in the air you're gonna have to set her down .
By measuring you can reset the bars to current height.

FYI , I never unload the torsion bars when I'm dropping the transmission.
Big John isn't wrong, it is the safe and likely correct way. I guess some of us just don't do it.
 
I've removed the crossmember without messing with the torsion bars before, but you have to "pry" things back into place upon reinstalling the crossmember. It can be done, but probably not the best way.
I'm more curious as to how the flex plate bolts got loose in the first place. I've never seen that before.
Not loose, very loose! So loose that the starter won’t engage! I can move the flex plate almost a half an inch. My thought is, they didn’t use loctite when they installed it.
 
With that much play and the converter bolts are tight, I suspect you will have front seal or pump issues. Hopefully I am wrong.

Whoops. I see you have it unbolted now. I'd still be very suspicious of seal issues if it was that loose.
 
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So it is currently unbolted from the torque converter?
Yes I have unbolted it, I have all of the bellhousing bolts out disconnected the trans lines, speedometer… I have the tranny Jack under it just need to try and slide it back to see if there are any other issues.
 
Down load a FSM (Factory Service Manual) before you injure yourself.
 
I replaced the flew plate in a Ford Expedition 4x4 a few years ago. I did not want to disassemble the transfer case and trans, or drop the crossmember. So I took all the bolts loose and in the bottom bellhousing bolt hole I made two dowels. I piece of all thread cut to about six inches long. I sawed a slit in the end so I could use a flathead screwdriver to take them out if need be. I was able to slide the assembly back enough to get to the bolts and replace the chewed up flex plate. Now I know every car is different but, I would think that there's enough room under there to slide back the trans without taking the car apart. Hope this helps.
 
I replaced the flew plate in a Ford Expedition 4x4 a few years ago. I did not want to disassemble the transfer case and trans, or drop the crossmember. So I took all the bolts loose and in the bottom bellhousing bolt hole I made two dowels. I piece of all thread cut to about six inches long. I sawed a slit in the end so I could use a flathead screwdriver to take them out if need be. I was able to slide the assembly back enough to get to the bolts and replace the chewed up flex plate. Now I know every car is different but, I would think that there's enough room under there to slide back the trans without taking the car apart. Hope this helps.
That is my intention, but the crossmember is in the way of sliding it back.
 
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