Tool Tips thread. Tool tips
What are you working on today??
- Thread starter slappys garage
- Start date
Vaanth
Active Member
The teeth, or serrations, in the jaws of Vampliers make the difference. They are sharp and very hard to bite into and grip fasteners with little head material left for regular tools.
They are made in a few sizes, and in needle nose as well:
Jaws of both pliers showing the teeth:
In addition to the screws from the sending units in that fuel tank, they removed these very rusted screws in the following images. These type of screws can be very difficult to grasp due to the thin flange and low slope on the head, especially rusted partially away. Note the two worst rusted screws on the left:
These are made by Vampire Tools in Japan. There is a competing brand called Engineer Tools, but I have no experience with them.
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SportFury70
Senior Member
I am currently in the hospital recovering from a new kidney transplant, but my stepdad bought and installed new magnum 500 rims and tires on his turquoise 1967 Fury 4-door hardtop….
3175375
Old Man with a Hat
Sorry to hear about your health issues.
3175375
Old Man with a Hat
Replacing 46-16’ 2x6s in a fence. Posts are good but the cross boards are rotted.
Are you using treated lumber this time around?
3175375
Old Man with a Hat
Yes siree
3175375
Old Man with a Hat
We finally got the last light fixture installed in the parlor. The pair of hanging lamps were from the old master bathroom.
The lamp in the bay window is an old Scottish Clipper lamp that my parents gave me years ago.
I am not allowed in this room without a cleanliness inspection.
The lamp in the bay window is an old Scottish Clipper lamp that my parents gave me years ago.
I am not allowed in this room without a cleanliness inspection.
cbarge
World Famous Barge in a Budget
Getting the C's ready for the season.
Old man winter has been the drunk at a party that just wont leave.
Got Grace running and pulled out so I can build a workbench from scraps leftover from last years garage build.
The top of bench is based on a pallet for tin roof sheets. Lol.
Not finished yet but will update the finished product.lol
Old man winter has been the drunk at a party that just wont leave.
Got Grace running and pulled out so I can build a workbench from scraps leftover from last years garage build.
The top of bench is based on a pallet for tin roof sheets. Lol.
Not finished yet but will update the finished product.lol
Yep... We had snow a couple days ago.
Stubborn old man. He gifted us about 14".
Vaanth
Active Member
The other day, I drove my old 1976 D100 field work truck, which had been sitting for years, out of a field. I corrected a badly corroded, plugged, fuel sending unit and accompanying issues. It has dual exhaust that was added in the 80s, running outside the frame rails, but the mufflers were rusted and blown out and the tail pipes are heavily rusted too.
I pulled the old exhaust, retained the head pipes and added some mufflers and side exhaust made from junk/spare parts. The mufflers are no-name turbo mufflers from a JC Whitney Dodge van dual exhaust kit from the 90s. I save almost everything, even bits and pieces of exhaust pipe, so this is made of scraps, and I even managed to add some old used stainless steel tips to it.
The truck is back in service.
It's rough looking, but working well.
Here. somewhat like cats, it looks like the little one is sneaking up on the big one:
I pulled the old exhaust, retained the head pipes and added some mufflers and side exhaust made from junk/spare parts. The mufflers are no-name turbo mufflers from a JC Whitney Dodge van dual exhaust kit from the 90s. I save almost everything, even bits and pieces of exhaust pipe, so this is made of scraps, and I even managed to add some old used stainless steel tips to it.
The truck is back in service.
It's rough looking, but working well.
Here. somewhat like cats, it looks like the little one is sneaking up on the big one:
3175375
Old Man with a Hat
3175375
Old Man with a Hat
My wife has populated the bookcase.
Your local hardware store may have them too, look for impact screwdriver or manual impact driver. I'd say those, a telescoping stick magnet/flex magnet and a pick set are essentials for any DIYer. Those manual impacts are a godsend when you can't use a regular impact wrench or power driver, cracked open a viscous fan clutch with one of them before.
I got the steering box out last week, had to cut a bit of the wheel well cover to get access to the final bolt as the hole that was cut out from the factory wasn't aligned properly, didn't really bother with painting the exposed metal, I figured all the oil and crud would protect it from rust lol:
A floor jack and prying the rag joint off with a crowbar later, and the box was out. The butthead that looked at or worked on the car previously used RTV to seal up the sector shaft, no wonder it had a steady leak.
I didn't touch the RTV but cleaned the rest of the box then shipped it out to Firm Feel...200 bucks shipping, ouch. Oh well, it's not like I spend my money on much else.
Also addressed the fuel system components in the engine bay; replaced the fuel hose leading to the pump, installed a check valve in it (barely visible in the pic), and replaced the pump:
Seems like the original, factory pump was still on it, still worked, but the car had only done about 36-38,000 miles:
Comparing both...
- the old one had a spring between the lever and the bottom of the housing where it mates to the engine. The new one doesn't, but still has the provisions for a spring. From what I've seen on this forum, it seems to work fine without the spring, but I moved it across anyway.
- the cast aluminium housing has changed through the decades, but the biggest difference is that the old one is narrower just above the diaphragm, so you have a straight shot at the two mounting bolts. The new housing partially obstructs those bolts so a 3/8 inch drive wobble extension or U-joint, or a very thin extension (1/4 inch drive?) is needed to get to them.
I must've gotten VERY lucky - there was no preload on the fuel pump by the pushrod - I was able to push that in quite far, and it even stayed in place if I pushed it juuust right, making it very easy to install the pump, didn't even have to turn the crankshaft. The only issue was with the new pump's housing making it a bit more awkward to get to the bolts without a wobble joint.
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Crap. Just realised that I somehow tore a small hole in the upper ball joint's dust boot. Would anyone happen to have a spare dust boot for a K772 ball joint? All the outlets that sell one have them for just a few bucks, but then it's 60-70 bucks shipping to Australia...don't suppose anyone is willing to freight forward? Was thinking the packaging could be downsized or something, maybe post it in a bubble wrap mailer?
Vaanth
Active Member
Last episode of "not a C-body, but what I'm working on today" for this vehicle, 1976 D100.
A couple of weeks ago, I reactivated my beat up truck that has led a rough life, became a field truck, and was parked in a field years ago. I posted follow-ups with some of the things I was doing to bring it back to field service duty, including fixing a clogged gas tank and replacing rotted exhaust. Doing this on the side,while working with other cars too.
In the last couple of days, I've done some electrical repairs, and then I put a quick back yard paint job on it (in the grass, next to the woods), playing with some WWII style military khaki olive drab, plus some specific black parts. No body work, just some cleanup and spot rust treatment paint, masking then spraying it with the alkyd enamel - dents, cracks, splits, holes, and all. Now it's a kinda cool looking field truck....
A couple of weeks ago, I reactivated my beat up truck that has led a rough life, became a field truck, and was parked in a field years ago. I posted follow-ups with some of the things I was doing to bring it back to field service duty, including fixing a clogged gas tank and replacing rotted exhaust. Doing this on the side,while working with other cars too.
In the last couple of days, I've done some electrical repairs, and then I put a quick back yard paint job on it (in the grass, next to the woods), playing with some WWII style military khaki olive drab, plus some specific black parts. No body work, just some cleanup and spot rust treatment paint, masking then spraying it with the alkyd enamel - dents, cracks, splits, holes, and all. Now it's a kinda cool looking field truck....
That truck now looks awesome!
Like the lettering also.
Like the lettering also.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Cleaned up a NICE cam I extracted from my 383 core, as mentioned in my new thread in Engines. Here's a pic of the cam again here:
After that, I later fished a little more rusted ring out of each bore, turned the motor so the odd numbered cylinder deck is level, and filled those bores with some fresh penetrant. Will do the same tomorrow eve on the even # side. Sprayed down the crank with plenty penetrant also. Will then try Monday to crank them into a little motion. If that fails at this point, I'll remove the crank, then attempt pushing each piston out. The pistons and block look good so far as I can see, so I hope to preserve it all, then start the actual rebuild.....
After that, I later fished a little more rusted ring out of each bore, turned the motor so the odd numbered cylinder deck is level, and filled those bores with some fresh penetrant. Will do the same tomorrow eve on the even # side. Sprayed down the crank with plenty penetrant also. Will then try Monday to crank them into a little motion. If that fails at this point, I'll remove the crank, then attempt pushing each piston out. The pistons and block look good so far as I can see, so I hope to preserve it all, then start the actual rebuild.....
3175375
Old Man with a Hat
You buried it right!
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