What Cam is this?

[badvs3vil]

Hello,

I finally was able to pull the cam out of my Newport. Engine is from 77'. Only info I can find on the cam itself is D11 and looks like maybe Chrysler logos?

Any ideas?

 

[CBODY67]

Need to check the lobe heights, then multiply by 1.5 for the "advertised lift" on intake and exhaust. "Lobe Lift" would complete diameter across the cam minus the diameter 90 degrees off from that first measurement. With those figures, where the cam might have come from could be easier to determine, hopsdully.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[badvs3vil]

What I found so far. 40.4mm at peak and 33.4 base circle. All of them are these same sizes.

 

[CBODY67]

What I found so far. 40.4mm at peak and 33.4 base circle. All of them are these same sizes.

7mm lobe lift = .273"
.273 x 1.5 = .4095"

Even at .410" lift, don't recall any factory Chrysler cams which had that lift on all lobes. Exhuast lobes were usually a little bit taller than the intake lobes. Even the old "standard cam" on 4bbl motors had .425" lift, with the old 252 cam having .390" lift, by comparison. Doesn't appear to be much wear on it, if anything significant at all, from what I can see.

Was the timing chain cam sproket the OEM plastic composite item or was it full-metal? When did the Holley 4160 and headers happen? VIN/date codes on the block? How deep in the hole are the pistons? Reason for pulling it apart? Just curious.

Thanks,
CBODY67

 

[badvs3vil]

7mm lobe lift = .273"
.273 x 1.5 = .4095"

Even at .410" lift, don't recall any factory Chrysler cams which had that lift on all lobes. Exhuast lobes were usually a little bit taller than the intake lobes. Even the old "standard cam" on 4bbl motors had .425" lift, with the old 252 cam having .390" lift, by comparison. Doesn't appear to be much wear on it, if anything significant at all, from what I can see.

Was the timing chain cam sproket the OEM plastic composite item or was it full-metal? When did the Holley 4160 and headers happen? VIN/date codes on the block? How deep in the hole are the pistons? Reason for pulling it apart? Just curious.

Thanks,
CBODY67

The timing chain and gear was replaced is what I found. It's full metal.

I was just tearing it down for a learning process and also to pop in a new cam and just have some fun with it. However, I read my plugs during this and found them all to be covered in oil. I then started looking at the heads and rings. I think tomorrow I will be calling a machine shop to get a quote on block and heads.

I installed the holley and headers during this summer.

I'll grab the codes off of it in the morning.

What are you looking for by asking about the pistons?

I'll post a couple pictures

 

[CBODY67]

Thanks for the reply and information. Pistons? How far "in the hole" they might be?

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[1970FuryConv]

The timing chain and gear was replaced is what I found. It's full metal.
Nice
I was just tearing it down for a learning process and also to pop in a new cam and just have some fun with it. However, I read my plugs during this and found them all to be covered in oil. I then started looking at the heads and rings. I think tomorrow I will be calling a machine shop to get a quote on block and heads.
What are you looking for by asking about the pistons?

Good idea with an oil burner. no sense taking chances
Depth of piston head below top of block. Allows calculation of compression ratio

 

[badvs3vil]

Good idea with an oil burner. no sense taking chances
Depth of piston head below top of block. Allows calculation of compression ratio

Its only a 400 BB. so I would have to assume very low compression. Ill try to measure it today though.

 

[badvs3vil]

So I spoke to a engine shop this morning. When I explained about my oil covered plugs, he instantly asked if I installed a PCV and ran it back through the carb and was also using Chrome valve covers (not sure why the covers matter). I said I did. He said that's one of the biggest issues he see's on these. Told me to try and look at the top side of the valve's and try to see if I see oil on them.

I also see cross hatching in the engine and from what else I have told him, he said this engine was already rebuilt and the engine might just be fine. He said he might have some better heads to add more compression.

He did say if I bring it to him, it will takes months and cost around $2k min to dig into it.

Thoughts?

 

[Snotty]

What cam is this that's laid to rest on my shop ta..ble in the cold?

 

[CBODY67]

The issue with the chrome valve covers is that the pcv hole usually is not baffled, which means that the oil cloud inside the valve covers is recycled into the combustion chamber via the pcv system. The baffle keeps the bigger oil droplets out of the valve, typically. Which is why he mentioned looking at the back of the valve head.

Get a wire brush (on the end of a drill motor or a wooden handle) and clean some of the piston tops to see if there might be ".030" stamped on them FWIW.

IF the oil was coming up from the bottom, there would be "washed" areas around the top of the affected pistons where the oil had "washed" the carbon off of the piston tops. Which I did not see in your pictures, only a consistent "black" layer of soot/carbon. Which gives further credence to the non-baffled pcv system issue.

While you've got the heads off, remove a few valves and look at the guides. To see if they;ve been knurled or if there might be bronze helicoil inserts in them. Or for that matter, you could get a valve job done? Shims under any of the valve springs?

ALL kinds of fun stuff you can do with things that far apart!

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[1970FuryConv]

So I spoke to a engine shop this morning. When I explained about my oil covered plugs, he instantly asked if I installed a PCV and ran it back through the carb and was also using Chrome valve covers (not sure why the covers matter). I said I did. He said that's one of the biggest issues he see's on these. Told me to try and look at the top side of the valve's and try to see if I see oil on them.

I also see cross hatching in the engine and from what else I have told him, he said this engine was already rebuilt and the engine might just be fine. He said he might have some better heads to add more compression.

He did say if I bring it to him, it will takes months and cost around $2k min to dig into it.

Thoughts?

Sounds like an honest machinist.
I doubt you're alone. I maybe a chrome valve cover oil-burner too.
How much oil was the car burning, say in 500 miles?

 

[1970FuryConv]

The issue with the chrome valve covers is that the pcv hole usually is not baffled, which means that the oil cloud inside the valve covers is recycled into the combustion chamber via the pcv system. The baffle keeps the bigger oil droplets out of the valve, typically. Which is why he mentioned looking at the back of the valve head.

Get a wire brush (on the end of a drill motor or a wooden handle) and clean some of the piston tops to see if there might be ".030" stamped on them FWIW.

IF the oil was coming up from the bottom, there would be "washed" areas around the top of the affected pistons where the oil had "washed" the carbon off of the piston tops. Which I did not see in your pictures, only a consistent "black" layer of soot/carbon. Which gives further credence to the non-baffled pcv system issue.

While you've got the heads off, remove a few valves and look at the guides. To see if they;ve been knurled or if there might be bronze helicoil inserts in them. Or for that matter, you could get a valve job done? Shims under any of the valve springs?

ALL kinds of fun stuff you can do with things that far apart!

Enjoy!
CBODY67

How much oil would an unbaffled PCV cause a car with SB V8 to burn?
a quart per tank-full? a quart every 2 tank-fulls?