What is a good source of a rebuilt A-727 transmission?

[MonacoBlue]

This is good information on things to check with hard shifting or leaks. Thanks for sharing it.

I hope it prevents having to buy a new or rebuilt trans. overseas. That sounds like a huge hassle! I know of a shop here in Winston-Salem that will give a 36 month warranty for a rebuild…but understand that’s only “easy” if in the US. They don’t do “core swaps”, to my knowledge.

Someone in Sweden or Finland or Poland may have an extra 727 around, if worst case scenario happens. Quite a few big Mopars in those countries!

A YouTube video would be good, as a tutorial…

 

[Pingvinov]

I also agree with adjusting the rod in the slot. Pull lower rod 1/8 inch forward and see if the shift points change. Probably not off by much since it was right.View attachment 512625

Please excuse my ignorance. Could you draw an arrow pointing to the rod I should pull forward in my picture so that I do it right.

 

[EurekaSevven]

Yours looks like a later car so I'm not entirely familiar with how you actually adjust this (I think it has something to do with under the firewall), but on my 68 Newport, the kickdown rod is threaded and you can adjust the slotted rod itself using that. And CBODY67 taught me that when your adjustment is correct, you can actually tighten the rod 2 turns inward to the throttle linkage to make a better shifting tranny. I want to try it when I get my car running again to compare.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Please excuse my ignorance. Could you draw an arrow pointing to the rod I should pull forward in my picture so that I do it right.

View attachment 512907

I admit, I can't see your adjuster in the picture. With 1973, there is an adjuster slot at the carb end of that blue rod that comes up behind the rear inside corner of your valve cover. You need to remove the air cleaner and take a picture of the throttle cable/kickdown linkage bracket area. 1974 may be a different design.

 

[thethee]

This appears to be like the "throttle rod" (think that's what chrysler called it) as it is on my '75 Imperial. Maybe the adjustment procedure from my FSM can help you:

 

[1970FuryConv]

Interesting. Thanks. So sliding the throttle rod forward in the adjuster, in small increments, might eliminate the hard shifts. Loosen lock screw, Slide forward, tighten lock screw to 125"lbs, test drive, repeat

 

[MonacoBlue]

The setup on his/your car doesn’t look factory original. Is it possible it was originally a 2bbl? Is that a 2bbl linkage on a four barrel carb (forgive me if someone already resolved this question, I don’t know the difference by looking). Was the hard shift problem a recently occurring issue? Perhaps severe colder temps/warmer temps cycling in Russia caused some mis-adjustment to happen. Linkage nut loose?

Probably no different than a car in north Canada or Alaska.

That would be very nice if you could just loosen the nut, slide the linkage forward a little and re-tighten it, and the problem goes away.

Curious - in Russia do they run “pure” gasoline? What octane do you run? No unpleasant ethanol additives, correct?

 

[thethee]

Interesting. Thanks. So sliding the throttle rod forward in the adjuster, in small increments, might eliminate the hard shifts. Loosen lock screw, Slide forward, tighten lock screw to 125"lbs, test drive, repeat

As I understand it, in this setup, the rod needs to be adjusted that there is no free play in the rod. Meaning, if you touch the throttle, the transmission shift lever moves with it. This is the factory setting. If it's adjusted too loose, meaning the shift lever doesn't move at the same time as the throttle, it will upshift harshly. On the other hand, if it's adjusted "too tight", the shift lever already has an offset at idle and it will delay the upshift.

@Pingvinov looking at this picture it does seem your rod is out of adjustment:

You need to adjust is so that that pin rests at the end of the slot at idle and I think that will fix your harsh upshifts.