The final task worth mentioning on the GTX is repair of the driver side door hinges. This is something that C body people rarely have to deal with, unless you're restoring an old taxi. The C bodies used very robust door hinges, where on the A, B, and E cars, the hinges were usually spent by the time they had 40K miles on them.
I like to think that I came up with this method of door removal all on my own, but I'm sure someone else has thought of it before me. It's a bit hard to see in the photos, but I have an engine leveler on the hoist so that the angle of the door can be fine tuned.
I mark the hinges with a sharpie and unbolt them from the door. Some tape on all the edges is good insurance.
An air hammer makes easy work of removing the hinge pins. The body side of the upper hinge can stay on the car. With an angle drill, you could probably get away with leaving the body side of the lower hinge on the car too, but in the long run it may be easier to remove it.
As far as I know, this Dorman kit is the only game in town for the parts needed to repair the hinges. Some others repackage this kit and sell it for way more money. AMS Obsolete puts two kits in a bag and sells them for $36 once you add in shipping. Found that out the hard way.
The pivot pin holes in the lower hinge need to be enlarged for the bushings to fit, as the lower did not have bushings from the factory. It's best to work your way up in drill size instead of going for the final size in one shot. Ideally, you would use a reamer to get a rounder hole, but most people don't have reamer sets laying around. You also need to drill both holes at one time to try to keep them concentric.
Since the flanges on the bushings add height to the center part of the hinge, the outer part of the hinge will need to be filed for clearance.
I've found that the insides of the bushings usually need a bit of filing with a rat tail to get the pins to slide in nice. Everything needs to go together by hand on these. The bushings are thin and brittle. If you force any part of the process, they will split.
The upper hinge has the brass bushings from the factory, so you just knock out the old ones with a drift and hammer the new ones in. As they say, installation is the reverse of removal. No adjusting of the hinges was needed. Just had to fine tune the striker for a perfect closing door.
That's it for the easy stuff.
Next episode, things are going to get a bit more serious in the shop.