Working on a 400

[moper]

Any of the Comp XE line will require new valve springs. Upside is they're not really expensive and will drop right in place, and you can replace the valve seals at the same time.

 

[commando1]

Looks like engine is getting totally rebuilt now. Lol

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Buy the complete kit. Anything less than .500 lift will not bang the pistons especially in a .120 down in the hole 400

 

[1978 NYB]

Don't forget the more radical the cam.....it will produce less vacuum for brakes.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Well I've already purchased this kit...sounded like a bump over stock, you see anything wrong with this, a 4bbl, and dual exhaust?
New RV Torque Cam & Lifters 204/214 Dur 421/444 Lift Chrysler bb 440 426 400 383 | eBay

Here's another pic, not much carbon buildup noticeable.View attachment 223974

Looked nice for MY 400, which is from a 77 RV to start with, but I might want a little more pop from that motor. I have a million or so things to do before I get there anyway.

 

[Xenon]

Damn.
Ok, so...are we talking something like this?
COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Camshafts 21-223-4

That looks like a nice part.. That is almost as a hemi grind spec...
Will idle well and give pretty good vacuum.....

 

[BLIMP]

That's a good point. Actually I wasn't sure if one of these lower compression versions could still have valvetrain/piston interference.
Here's a bit of information I've found while researching...here's the "RV performance" cam

And this is information found regarding specs on the stock cam

Not trying to second guess anyone here, as I admittedly know very little about camshafts. Just trying to make my second attempt at this an educated decision. Thanks for the suggestions so far.
Paul

 

[70bigblockdodge]

That's a good point. Actually I wasn't sure if one of these lower compression versions could still have valvetrain/piston interference.
Here's a bit of information I've found while researching...here's the "RV performance" cam
View attachment 225086
And this is information found regarding specs on the stock cam

View attachment 225087
Not trying to second guess anyone here, as I admittedly know very little about camshafts. Just trying to make my second attempt at this an educated decision. Thanks for the suggestions so far.
Paul

Use the @.050 duration numbers to compare cams. Advertised is just that advertising or lying like a lawyer they can just pick the point to measure from. The @.050 duration is measured @.050 of lifter movement to .050 before it sits back down on the base circle, making it a apples to apples comparison. For the stock cam specs with no @.050 lift, it is usually okay to multiply Chrysler's advertised number by .85 will give you a number kind of like the at .050 duration. Don't take that calculated number as gospel though, just a reference.
Hope this helps. Keeping your intake duration in the 220-230 range is good for a heavy stock type car. Using exhaust manifoldss extra exhaust duration doesn't hurt.

 

[BLIMP]

Thanks for your reply, some good info!

 

[BLIMP]

The last month I've been sidetracked with life, and have been at a standstill with the engine. Yesterday I was able to devote some time to it.
To the people that have chimed in with their reasoning and opinions about a cam, I'd like to take a second to say thanks. A couple were were fairly lengthy, and I appreciate the time it took to write them up.
The reason I'm saying this is because I'm going ahead with my original cam choice, and only because I've already purchased it. Didn't feel right to return it after opening the package and oiling the lifters, plus I've already spent the money.
Hopefully no one feels like they wasted their time answering my questions, because honestly I'm going to be using this advice when I purchase my next cam for the big block swap into my white Monaco wagon.
Thanks again fellas.
Paul

 

[BLIMP]

New cam going in.

New lifters installed.

New double roller timing chain.

 

[BLIMP]

Uh oh...according to the FSM there should be an oil slinger of sorts here...wasn't one here upon dissasembly.

 

[Xenon]

Uh oh...according to the FSM there should be an oil slinger of sorts here...wasn't one here upon dissasembly.

ABSOOOLUTELY........ Get one in there...

 

[BLIMP]

Upon a little investigation, it appears to be a hot topic.

Oil Slinger ??? - Moparchat - Home of MOPAR enthusiasts worldwide!

I'm just at a loss as to why it's not here. I'd wager I'm the 1st to have this cover off, as these appear to be the original timing gears

 

[70NEWYORKER]

Who knows why it's missing. Some one at the factory was having a sneezing fit as the engine went past his station.... Find one and install it. It takes a bit of the load off the front seal, unless you want to rust proof your car one quart at a time.
It is called a slinger because it slings oil...all over the timing chain...as in lubricating it so that it lasts a long time.

 

[BLIMP]

Gotcha, just ordered one off ebay

 

[70NEWYORKER]

Gotcha, just ordered one off ebay

 

[david hill]

Damn.
Ok, so...are we talking something like this?
COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Camshafts 21-223-4

That would be a good choice. Combine w/ a set of performance lifters and your good to go. Replacing the valve springs would be well advised and cheap insurance as the old valve springs have so many miles on them and the cam has additional lift over stock. Be sure to check for valve spring coil bind once assembled. From what I see in your photos the engine is exceptionally clean.

 

[BLIMP]

Reassembled as much as I could, am waiting on the oil slinger. And now it's too cold to paint, will have to wait till next year.

 

[Ripinator]

Reassembled as much as I could, am waiting on the oil slinger. And now it's too cold to paint, will have to wait till next year. View attachment 235074

Is that a FRAM filter I see?!?