Worthy upgrade over an existing aluminum radiator?

Blusmbl

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This is a shot in the dark as I'm not sure Cold Case posts here anymore, but figured I'd ask anyway.

My '68 has an Afco aluminum crossflow radiator in it already, the core is ~18x22" with 2 rows of 1" tubes. It also has a mechanical fan with clutch, but no shroud since it is a universal radiator and not meant for the C-bodies so the original shroud doesn't fit.

It runs cool at freeway speeds at all ambient temperatures, it maintains 180*F as long as the car is moving. At idle in heavy stop and go traffic it will creep up in temperature though, I've seen over 220*F if I've been idling for an extended duration after a freeway run, as an example. I assume the lack of fan shroud is hurting it, and it could also potentially use more capacity.

Would swapping it out to the Cold Case reproduction style 26" fix my idle heat issues, if I added a shroud?

I have a rather large trans cooler mounted in front of the radiator currently. I thought about just trying to replace the mechanical fan with a high flow electric but the core size on my current radiator isn't large enough to fit 2 12" fans, it could only fit a single 16" and looking at CFM ratings I don't think a single 16" is going to do any better than the mechanical fan I currently have.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Nick
 
I would say just by adding a correct shroud would help plenty with your cooling conditions. You could even go with a rebuilt stock HD cooling rad and shroud. As for me it is stock with shroud, my cars can idle in the Woodward show traffic for hours without an increase in temp to worry about.
 
It's a crossflow radiator with no provisions to mount an OEM style shroud, that's part of the problem. The end of the fan clutch is about an inch from the rear face of the radiator core.

I agree that a shroud on the current radiator would probably fix it, but any of the reproduction shrouds won't fit due to the locations of the tanks, and my fab ability isn't good enough to make something that looks nice enough that I'd like to have bolted onto the car.
 
Not the greatest pic but it’s all I’ve got for now.

088DA9E9-78BC-4141-99D4-B654A4BD34BD.jpeg
 
Go with the new Cold Case and shroud set up, that should work out for you. Better to have too much cooling then not. Once you have your shroud installed, there is a distance spec for the fan placement. I think its no more the half an inch for the real side of blade to be outside of the shroud, but you also dont want it too far forward in the shroud. Non shrouded cars have the fan blades very close to the rad.
 
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Go with the new Cold Case and shroud set up, that should work out for you. Better to have too much cooling then not. Once you have your shroud installed, there is a distance spec for the fan placement. I think its no more the half an inch for the real side of blade to be outside of the shroud, but you also dont want it too far forward in the shroud. Non shrouded cars have the fan blades very close to the rad.

Thanks, that makes sense. I also saw in some of the other threads on the CC radiator that the larger HD fan clutch doesn't fit, it ends up touching the radiator core. Mine looks like a regular one, not the HD one.
 
There are different depths of fan clutches, you can check the specs on the rock auto site when you are ready to fine tune the depth.
 
This is a shot in the dark as I'm not sure Cold Case posts here anymore, but figured I'd ask anyway.

My '68 has an Afco aluminum crossflow radiator in it already, the core is ~18x22" with 2 rows of 1" tubes. It also has a mechanical fan with clutch, but no shroud since it is a universal radiator and not meant for the C-bodies so the original shroud doesn't fit.

It runs cool at freeway speeds at all ambient temperatures, it maintains 180*F as long as the car is moving. At idle in heavy stop and go traffic it will creep up in temperature though, I've seen over 220*F if I've been idling for an extended duration after a freeway run, as an example. I assume the lack of fan shroud is hurting it, and it could also potentially use more capacity.

Would swapping it out to the Cold Case reproduction style 26" fix my idle heat issues, if I added a shroud?

I have a rather large trans cooler mounted in front of the radiator currently. I thought about just trying to replace the mechanical fan with a high flow electric but the core size on my current radiator isn't large enough to fit 2 12" fans, it could only fit a single 16" and looking at CFM ratings I don't think a single 16" is going to do any better than the mechanical fan I currently have.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Nick
made a shroud for t . it will help u a ton . the cross flow(GM style) ones run hotter get a fan clutch for a car with ac . i have got a mopar max flow 160 degree thermostat ( Chrysler stoped making them but MR Gasket dose ) if u do like i did then the cooling issues should end . i had over heating issues too i got reproduction max cool copper brass radiator from summit or jegs i cant remember & it was a direct / match to the plug up one ta was on the car the only problem with te 160 thermostat is its kind of cool in the winter ( but i have to drive mine yr round now )
 
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Your charger behaves the same way with the same equipment. Dad had electric fans on it and when I brought it to the city it immediately started overheating. OEM clutch fan made it much better but the temp creeps in summer traffic jams. 100% a shroud would help but I haven't figured out how to make one either for the universal rad. If I ever go on 'Tour with it I'll need a different solution.
 
Your charger behaves the same way with the same equipment. Dad had electric fans on it and when I brought it to the city it immediately started overheating. OEM clutch fan made it much better but the temp creeps in summer traffic jams. 100% a shroud would help but I haven't figured out how to make one either for the universal rad. If I ever go on 'Tour with it I'll need a different solution.
BUY A UNIVERSAL IT WILL TUNNEL THE AIR A SHRUD IS A MUCH NEEDED PART OF THE COOLING SYSTEM . CAN I ASK Y U PUT A ALUMINUM RAD ON IT IN THE FIRST PLACE?
 
I would stay away from any aftermarket electric fans. They are stupid money and for the most part regardless of how much air they claim to move, don't work.

A popular OEM electric that seems to get good reviews as far as cooling goes is one for a Chev HHR. Available at any parts store for cheap.

Feets used one for a C class Mercedes on his twin turbo Belvedere but I think it requires a pulse width modulator controller to operate. If you do a search on Moparts you will find an extensive thread on it and one of the members designed a controller for it.

Monster electric cooling fan upgrade. long. w/photos.

Mercedes fan controller

Verify that the clutch is engaging enough to drive the fan. I've had them where they seem to be spinning the fan ok but were actually slipping. Replaced the clutch and you could hear the fan roar again when the clutch engaged. You can buy universal shroud kits from places like Summit.

Kevin
 
FWIW... Here's how some guys have made fan shrouds. Some of the pics are gone, but pay attention to the "how to" using fiberglass about 2/3 down the page. Fan shrouds
 
My vote is get a stock HD, rad have it recored, install with shroud and correct clutch fan and drive. The old Mopar performance Viscous fan package was a great deal when it was available.
fan1-jpg.jpg
 
BUY A UNIVERSAL IT WILL TUNNEL THE AIR A SHRUD IS A MUCH NEEDED PART OF THE COOLING SYSTEM . CAN I ASK Y U PUT A ALUMINUM RAD ON IT IN THE FIRST PLACE?
It's what my dad did in 2008 when building the car. There were many less options for all this stuff 15 yrs ago.
I ran the same thing in my coronet for racing and it worked fine with a JY elec fan. 125 more ponies to cool but never had to sit in traffic
 
My vote is get a stock HD, rad have it recored, install with shroud and correct clutch fan and drive. The old Mopar performance Viscous fan package was a great deal when it was available.
View attachment 587365
I run the 7 blade and clutch on the charger now. Strangely, a flex fan and shroud works as well or better on the fury. Maybe the original clutch wore out. It's pretty annoying that there's no bench test for them
 
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