Would a billet aluminum transmission pan be worth getting?

What sort of transmission pan do you use?

  • Replacement OEM steel

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • MACHINED steel, standard or enhanced volume

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • FORGED aluminum

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • OTHER

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    29

Gerald Morris

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FINAL NOTE! 2 days after installing Moroso gasket, the tranny was sieving fluid again, just as before. I checked the pan bolts, and LO! they had BACKED OUT from the modest 120 in-lb setting specified by Moroso. So I retorqued them. MORE important, I found the MAJOR leak: the Neutral Start Switch! I had been warned by the shop that this switch could become a leak, and, it had. So, I spent $70, cursing the rarity of NOS NSSes for the 65-66 A727, screwed the new NSS in, and NO LEAKS!! I guess the leaky NSS wet the bolts enough to allow them to back out some, exacerbating things.

Its been 4 days now. If I can go a week without any fluid loss, I'll shop for some good synthetic ATF or at least top grade mineral stuff. I think Wolf's Head makes some good ATF, as does B & M. I saw the latter touted as being especially formulated for the Torqueflites, as well as the C4 and C6 by ford. I like both of those almost as much as the Torqueflite! Bodes well.....
 

BIGBARNEYCARS

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FINAL NOTE! 2 days after installing Moroso gasket, the tranny was sieving fluid again, just as before. I checked the pan bolts, and LO! they had BACKED OUT from the modest 120 in-lb setting specified by Moroso. So I retorqued them. MORE important, I found the MAJOR leak: the Neutral Start Switch! I had been warned by the shop that this switch could become a leak, and, it had. So, I spent $70, cursing the rarity of NOS NSSes for the 65-66 A727, screwed the new NSS in, and NO LEAKS!! I guess the leaky NSS wet the bolts enough to allow them to back out some, exacerbating things.

Its been 4 days now. If I can go a week without any fluid loss, I'll shop for some good synthetic ATF or at least top grade mineral stuff. I think Wolf's Head makes some good ATF, as does B & M. I saw the latter touted as being especially formulated for the Torqueflites, as well as the C4 and C6 by ford. I like both of those almost as much as the Torqueflite! Bodes well.....
Mr Morris. Please re-read my #33 post on this thread. Why go any farther then your local Mopar dealership to get the Best Good S**t on the planet. Just let it stand overnite before refilling the transmission. I'm done
 

twostick

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Don't over think the fluid. Type F might give you a slightly firmer shift if that's what you're after, otherwise what ever they call Dexron these days is good.

Not enough difference if any in any of the Boutique Brands to matter in the real world so whatever is red and on sale at Walmart will be more than good enough.

Kevin
 

Gerald Morris

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Hmm. Good thinking! I normally use Walmart's SuperTech Type F, which now is their least expensive per quart. FYI, they use Shell for their source on that stuff, which is a good quality outfit. Wish they hadn't cut down the zinc in their diesel motor oils though....

Good work!
I concur with your opinion on the C6. The C4 just doesn’t have enough beef internally.

Very true! Dragsters love the C4, and the old 2 speed GM Hydramatics and Ford/Borg Warner Fordomatics, both 1950s holdovers which I've had on their two sports trucks of the early 60s at times. Mopar did it right the FIRST time on SO MANY basic innovations.
 

John Kirby

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My billet pan works a lot better than the original steel pan. Stopped nearly all the leaks. Due to it not distorting like the sheet metal ones do. It has a magnetic drain plug, holds an extra 2-3 quarts of fluid + cooling fins. It came with a spacer that puts the filter another 1.5 inches or so further down into the fluid. Now the only leaks are at the transmission line fittings. Plus one of the lines was spliced with rubber hose at the radiator. I plan on replacing the lines and using teflon tape for the fittings that screw into the case. Replacing the dip stick o-ring and shifter shaft seal will be done at the same time.
 

Gerald Morris

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FWIW, I switched back to Castrol Transmaxx when I dropped this tranny and engine into Gertrude, after thorough draining. That's what the tranny shop I used prefers, and I'll go along w them. The stuff comes WELL reviewed. To Hell with miniscule differences in shifting at the potential cost of voiding warranted work! Hermann Rousch (the shop owner) recommend's good billet Al pans for sealing a transmission. when affordable. I think the 1977 727 which I want rebuilt with the 400 this summer will get that.
 

Big_John

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I plan on replacing the lines and using teflon tape for the fittings that screw into the case.
Never use teflon tape for that. The shreds of the tape can get into the trans and cause all sorts of problems.

Use some Permatex thread seal or even some Form-A-Gasket sealer.
 

413

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Brass fittings in aluminum with pipe threads don’t need any sealer.
 
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