Wrong Torque converter? Modify, or return to sender?

Sir Dodge alot

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As the post title says, I'm in a middle of an Early A727 rebuild.

But a new problem has arrived, the New Torque converter from Hughes performance TC's that I have fitted rubs against the pump housing.

With the old Torque converter as a comparison, the TC "lug" is deeper on the new TC, while the original TC "lug" is shallower by an 1/8th or so.

So I ask you A727 gurus out there, would you sand/grind down the lug.
(tapered area above the lug)
To make the new TC fit, or return the TC to Hughes TC's?

Pictures below show the difference in pump lug "depth" compared to the new/original.

Edit: maybe some sort of spacer of sorts to fit the lug channel to change the resting depth of the TC? I'd have no idea.

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Did you state the model year of the transmission when you ordered the part?
 
I should have searched this up first before posting...but according to other sources, A/B body forums, the TC will get "pulled" toward the crank once everything is bolted down by the Flexplate,
1/4 or 1/8, just enough to clear the pump housing.

I'm hoping this might be the smoking gun, I suppose I'll gamble on the "once everything is bolted down" path and if not, I might machine the area on the pump housing that is rubbing.
 
Look at the shape of the two converters, you can see the difference. Better count splines and make sure this is an early converter before you alter anything.

The front pump needs ground down, it won't fit any other way. You can see the red paint on the pump where in needs to be clearanced. And it is all the way across that area not just the edge with red on it. Don't gamble and install it, you will lose.

I've seen this dozens of time with drag racers and aftermarket converters. What does Hughes sell? Aftermarket drag converters!

The hub is fine, and there is no spacer made for this.
 
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I'm hoping this might be the smoking gun, I suppose I'll gamble on the "once everything is bolted down" path and if not, I might machine the area on the pump housing that is

No need to gamble, or bolt everything down. With a sturdy straight edge and 6" machinist ruler, you should be able to measure how much if any the TC will pull back from fully bottomed. The crankshaft and flex plate truly set the TC depth, right or wrong, as you read.

Just compare the flexplate mounting pads from the block, and the TC pads depth in the bellhousing of the trans.....the two distances should different, and the tranny one should be a bigger number.
 
Thanks for
No need to gamble, or bolt everything down. With a sturdy straight edge and 6" machinist ruler, you should be able to measure how much if any the TC will pull back from fully bottomed. The crankshaft and flex plate truly set the TC depth, right or wrong, as you read.

Just compare the flexplate mounting pads from the block, and the TC pads depth in the bellhousing of the trans.....the two distances should different, and the tranny one should be a bigger number.
Thanks, for the tip off sir.
Indeed the mounting pads are thinner on the new TC, so thinner Flexplate mounting pads = the more the TC will get pulled to the Flexplate?

The original TC had a thicker Flexplate mounting pads AND I mocked the old TC against fully bottomed on the pump housing and it grinds a tad, not as much as the new TC.
 
Look at the shape of the two converters, you can see the difference. Better count splines and make sure this is an early converter before you alter anything.

The front pump needs ground down, it won't fit any other way. You can see the red paint on the pump where in needs to be clearanced. And it is all the way across that area not just the edge with red on it. Don't gamble and install it, you will lose.

I've seen this dozens of time with drag racers and aftermarket converters. What does Hughes sell? Aftermarket drag converters!

The hub is fine, and there is no spacer made for this.
Thanks you sir, I was 50/50 on installing as is. but as you say I will attempt to grind down the pump housing face where the TC (impeller?) has been grinding.
I will confirm the spline count TC.

Question: what tool would you recommend grinding the pump face, file? Or bench grinding wheel?

The spline count was indeed 19 from my eye lookers.
& The tool I had at my disposal was just an electric Dremel, and a file.
Might make short work of the area that needs to be ground down?

Pic with the makeshift "revised" stator seal.

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The small bulged area clears the TC now, the elongated flat area however could use more grinding.

Area marked with the fingers.

Mocked the pump onto the TC, much easier to see where it's grinding.

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After a couple more cycles of grinding/checking the pump to TC impeller clearances, I believe the pump cover no longer grinds against the TC.

Thank you to those that have chimed in, was afraid I needed to run the original TC that has metal shavings inside.

Thankfully, I think I'm in the clear! (No pun intended) Thanks again.

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