Thoughts on 67 Dodge Polara

MarylandHunter

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Been looking into getting a muscle car and learning about fixing it up. My grandfather is an electrician and been doing it for years so I thought it would be a cool way for us to get reconnected, but I want an opinion on this.
Details given:
67 polara
383 engine with running motor
Some rust on outside (requested pictures waiting on response)
Needs master cylinder and battery
1.5k USD

Im thinking total interior replacement, paint stripping, new tires, some patch work, and probably some electrical work. I sent an email earlier asking for more details and waiting on response. Initial impressions?
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There is nothing mini or musclecar about a 1967 Polara.

they are cool cars and can be lots of fun.
 
Well . . . the 383 has more muscle than the standard 318 V-8, fwiw. The '67 full-size Dodges were pretty spiffy when new. "Flash" with an appropriate amount of "dash" under the hood for not a lot of money.

From the little bit in the pictures, your possible "to do" list might be a bit long. Get the mechanicals in order first, learning about the car's engineering and such AND why it is better than a similar GM or Ford product (each has their own strong points). THEN worry about the interior and exterior items.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
Just wondering - does anyone here have a '67 Monaco / Polara with factory (in dash) A/C?
 
Thats what im thinking- they were introduced as almost like a "mini muscle" car. very interesting to be fair
The car looks good, but there's no substitute for onsite inspection.

If that's impossible, I talked to the owners of both my C-bodies for an hour on the phone before spending the purchase cash plus big $ for a car carrier. If you can't inspect and the owner seems the least bit untrustworthy, I'd bail. $1500 is almost in the too good to be true category. Good luck!
 
At that price you can’t go wrong, if you can afford to burn that amount of cash without moving your needle either way. This can be an expensive hobby.To restore a c body correctly is almost always an upside down proposition.
Most of the nice cars that you see on this forum belong to people who can drop 20k and not blink an eye.
I’ve seen many lost causes here that not even the most hard core, well heeled fans would touch because they know it’s beyond hope. Why? Rust. That’s it in a nutshell. Engines and transmissions are a dime a dozen. Forget the drivetrain. That’s easy. The car itself,, that’s the important part. Rust is what you have to look for, on the body and underside.
 
I see possibly the brightwork (upper window moldings) around the windows. That, cloth, and a/c are nice options to have.

If it still runs rough after a tune-up it is not uncommon for the 383 to need a valve job (adding in hard seats for unleaded gas). But do the proper diagnostics first. Other things it might need are fuel tank, fuel tank line, and brake lines.

Master cylinders are a bit challenging in that they will blow out the backsides, leaking fluid into the booster.

Well sorted brakes are good for Grandma driving. Disc conversions are available. The 14" wheels are getting difficult to get tires for in the correct size, 15" upgrade is often in order to facilitate disc brakes and tire options. The factory tire size was a little small in my opinion. With 15" wheels you will have to figure out new wheel covers.

Make sure the windshield is good. Availability is periodically spotty. Call around prior to purchase if it needs one.
 
Well . . . the 383 has more muscle than the standard 318 V-8, fwiw. The '67 full-size Dodges were pretty spiffy when new. "Flash" with an appropriate amount of "dash" under the hood for not a lot of money.

From the little bit in the pictures, your possible "to do" list might be a bit long. Get the mechanicals in order first, learning about the car's engineering and such AND why it is better than a similar GM or Ford product (each has their own strong points). THEN worry about the interior and exterior items.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
The best factory original stock 383 you can find in a 1967 Polara won’t run in the 14’s on its best day. Not a musclecar by ANY stretch
 
The best factory original stock 383 you can find in a 1967 Polara won’t run in the 14’s on its best day.
No... But if you simply smash it to the floor in "D", you'll be going 65 before it can be bothered to shift to 2nd!:)
 
That just means you have the wrong rear end gears in it.
1-2 at WOT at actual 65mph is WAY too high of a road speed for that to happen. Our '66 Newport 2bbl 2.76 did it at 40mph, which the FSM claims is within the factory spec (for 2.76 and 8.55x14 tires). IF your speedometer is accurate AND if the speedo gears in the trans are the correct ones. FWIW
 
Acceleration praise for the 1967 383 4 barrel in a 4300 lb wagon back in the day. Does anyone have the next page of this road test?

RoadTestFuryWagon.jpg
 
Been looking into getting a muscle car and learning about fixing it up. My grandfather is an electrician and been doing it for years so I thought it would be a cool way for us to get reconnected, but I want an opinion on this.
Details given:
67 polara
383 engine with running motor
Some rust on outside (requested pictures waiting on response)
Needs master cylinder and battery
1.5k USD

Im thinking total interior replacement, paint stripping, new tires, some patch work, and probably some electrical work. I sent an email earlier asking for more details and waiting on response. Initial impressions?
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Most mopars have their wonderful qualities. How bad *** are those uniquely bold tail lights
 
@FrancoFonseca

So the in-dash auto-pilot does exist in '67. I have never seen it other than in the service manual. And in the manual it was shown with a factory AC. So I wonder if there was ever a dash bezel for non-ac but with auto-pilot.

But here's a question: Why the different center steering wheel medallion? (different than what I'm used to seeing).

I have a tilt/tele steering column I'm planning to install, do I have to worry that my current non-tilt steering wheel and medalion won't work?
 
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