67imp
New Member
I have a 1967 imperial crown and I’ve been trying to find a way to convert the am radio to Bluetooth without messing with the power antenna but haven’t found much for answers if anyone know about this please let me know me know
Bluetooth radio conversion
- Thread starter 67imp
- Start date
3175375
Old Man with a Hat
These guys do what you’re looking for. Not cheap but very good reputation:
Tayman Electrical stereo solutions for collector cars
Tayman Electrical stereo solutions for collector cars
I have a radio there now for conversion. It's the third one he's done for me.
Mr Heater box is offer the conversion service in Canada.
classiccarradiorestoration.com
Welcome - Classic Car Radio Restoration
Keep your original radio in your classic car, upgraded with modern features such as FM Radio, Bluetooth, MP3 and more. Our process uses the original controls from almost any vintage automobile. Contact us and put the finishing touch in your cruisers interior.
classiccarradiorestoration.com
Retro Radio is good also
Mudeblue
Well-Known Member
Piece of cake! You need a Bluetooth Converter and an Adapter for AM to FM! 1-2 hour installation through the glove compartment. Antenna cable from antenna plugs into adapter which then plugs into the back of the radio. The Bluetooth adapter plugs into the AM/FM Adapter!
The Bluetooth can be found on e-Bay "VUBT2 Universal Waterproof Bluetooth 4.0 Audio Receiver"
The SM/FM Adapter is "RediRad" It can be hard to find but I just checked the internet via Google and they are out there!
I did this to my 66 GTO and 65 Sport Fury and they work great. Little tinkering but you will get there!
Everything stays the same in the car, no expensive conversions and the total cost is give or take $150 (the VUBT2 <$40).
While I did this, I also added an amp in the trunk for a little boost! I have schematic if you would like which I have on an excel schedule!
Last edited:
Mudeblue
Well-Known Member
If I am correct, you loose originality?
Mopar_Mudder
Member
has anyone tried anything like this, it is what I am thinking of doing so I can leave the stock radio alone seeing as it still works.
https://www.amazon.com/Memphis-Audio-Headless-Smartphone-Bluetooth/dp/B09GCTY6KD
https://www.amazon.com/Memphis-Audio-Headless-Smartphone-Bluetooth/dp/B09GCTY6KD
UGW
Member
@Mopar_Mudder get ready to drink from the fire hose! I'm planning a stealth install for my '63. I love showing off the foot-activated tuning and panelescent lighting on my AM radio, so I want to keep that fully functional while adding FM and Bluetooth.
I'm still in the planning stages because I've been fixing more important things, but here is a download of all my ideas:
- if you have a rear speaker already, that uses one 6x9 space on the left side
- if you have a defroster, that uses a 6x9 space on the right side
- there are a bunch of odd-shaped openings for the rear AC that can also hold speakers
In my case, I have very few factory options, so I replaced my factory rear speaker (which was blown anyway) with a 4x6 mounted in one of the AC vent holes. Then I installed 6x9s in the two speaker holes.
I may add a sub later, but that will require major electrical upgrades.
Similarly, if you're a real electronics wizard, it seems like it should be possible to connect a line level audio source to the stock radio as an auxiliary. This is how the old "highway hifi" systems worked. To do this, you'd need both serious vintage electronics knowledge, and some detective skills to figure out how the old system hooked into the radio. I gave up on this, but it would be cool if someone made it work.
You can hide one of these in the glove box, or I've seen some guys use a vintage, metal kleenex holder for an under-dash mount.
Some of these radios (JVC, for one) support a wired or wireless remote. If you get one with a remote, you could mount it anywhere, even in the trunk. Of course, you'll be running a lot of wire. You could hide the remote. I was considering either the door pocket or the ash tray.
If you want FM, you will need to either install a separate antenna, or get a "Y" splitter to share the factory antenna. The splitter is only $20, and it's completely plug and play (no cutting) so that's what I did.
Most of these radios won't draw more than 15A, so (I think) you should be able to use one of the existing accessory circuits without major upgrades. That might not be true if your Imperial is heavily optioned, but mine has plenty to spare.
The reason I decided against one of these systems was simply price. Because of the weatherproofing and the nautical features I'll never use, the ones I liked were just too expensive.
The problems with this solution are that you only get Bluetooth (no FM), most of the amps with native Bluetooth are expensive, and most importantly, amps seem to need around 30A, which likely means significant electrical upgrades.
Downsides are you'll always want to lock it up or take it with you, because it's easy to steal and plenty of people would if you left it on the seat. Also, it could become a missile in a collision if you don't secure it.
I'm still in the planning stages because I've been fixing more important things, but here is a download of all my ideas:
Speakers
Just leave your factory dash speaker alone. For fronts, I have a pair of low-profile enclosures secured under my front seat with heavy-duty velcro. For the rear, there are a ton of openings in the rear shelf where you can mount speakers, depending on your installed options:- if you have a rear speaker already, that uses one 6x9 space on the left side
- if you have a defroster, that uses a 6x9 space on the right side
- there are a bunch of odd-shaped openings for the rear AC that can also hold speakers
In my case, I have very few factory options, so I replaced my factory rear speaker (which was blown anyway) with a 4x6 mounted in one of the AC vent holes. Then I installed 6x9s in the two speaker holes.
I may add a sub later, but that will require major electrical upgrades.
Radio
There are a few options:AM Adapter
Like some people have already mentioned, you can get a Bluetooth to AM converter, which will pipe BT audio through you stock radio. I didn't really like this because your audio quality will be limited to the stock system.Similarly, if you're a real electronics wizard, it seems like it should be possible to connect a line level audio source to the stock radio as an auxiliary. This is how the old "highway hifi" systems worked. To do this, you'd need both serious vintage electronics knowledge, and some detective skills to figure out how the old system hooked into the radio. I gave up on this, but it would be cool if someone made it work.
Hidden DIN Radio
This is my current plan, mostly because I already own a DIN unit that I like. ("DIN" is a standard size aftermarket radio you can find anywhere. "Double DIN" is the big one used by newer cars. There's also "1.5 DIN" which GM and Mopar used in the 90s.) For less than $200 you can get one with Bluetooth, HD radio, preamp outputs, and all kinds of modern goodies.You can hide one of these in the glove box, or I've seen some guys use a vintage, metal kleenex holder for an under-dash mount.
Some of these radios (JVC, for one) support a wired or wireless remote. If you get one with a remote, you could mount it anywhere, even in the trunk. Of course, you'll be running a lot of wire. You could hide the remote. I was considering either the door pocket or the ash tray.
If you want FM, you will need to either install a separate antenna, or get a "Y" splitter to share the factory antenna. The splitter is only $20, and it's completely plug and play (no cutting) so that's what I did.
Most of these radios won't draw more than 15A, so (I think) you should be able to use one of the existing accessory circuits without major upgrades. That might not be true if your Imperial is heavily optioned, but mine has plenty to spare.
Marine Audio
Some of the marine or ATV systems (as linked previously) are an interesting option. Some of those are meant to mount out of sight, and can be controlled with a phone app or a small remote. I even found one marine system that had a wired remote with a volume knob and color screen.The reason I decided against one of these systems was simply price. Because of the weatherproofing and the nautical features I'll never use, the ones I liked were just too expensive.
Bluetooth Amplifier
There are some amplifiers which have native Bluetooth capability, or you can get a small Bluetooth "dongle" and connect it to an amp.The problems with this solution are that you only get Bluetooth (no FM), most of the amps with native Bluetooth are expensive, and most importantly, amps seem to need around 30A, which likely means significant electrical upgrades.
Bluetooth Party Speaker
This is what I'm currently doing. Just get a nice, portable JBL or Bose speaker. Unless you want to rattle your neighbors' windows, a modern speaker has more than enough power. Plus, you can take it with you to the beach!Downsides are you'll always want to lock it up or take it with you, because it's easy to steal and plenty of people would if you left it on the seat. Also, it could become a missile in a collision if you don't secure it.
67imp
New Member
Sorry for the EXTREMELY late reply but I would love to see that schematic
Mudeblue
Well-Known Member
I have a schematic and instructions on Excel schedules which won't attach here. PM me your e-mail and I will send them to you.
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