I want to soak the metering block of my Holley carburetor (4175) in a chemical dip for a couple of days to clean out the fine passages (idle circuit etc.) Talked to my mechanic and he suggested kerosene, clerk at parts store suggested vinegar, and the parts store had a gallon of "Gunk" parts cleaner with basket for $50. Did not want to spend that much for one time application and did not want to use spray application. Does anyone have suggestions for a chemical dip that will thoroughly clean the fine passages (cause I don't want to re-visit this)? Paul
advice on chemical parts cleaner
- Thread starter spstan
- Start date
No need to dip it, really. Car guys have been using this stuff for thousands of years. Thousands! About 8 bucks or so.
The spray action allows you to blow out the passages. But don't let it blast backwards to your eyes. Wear a shield.
The spray action allows you to blow out the passages. But don't let it blast backwards to your eyes. Wear a shield.
Justin Plant
Well-Known Member
Vinegar will almost certainly devour it. It works great on steel or iron. It dissolves pot metal and aluminum.
At one time I had the gallon can of carb cleaner with the basket. Worked great, although 15 years later it isn’t as effective as it was. I put the carb and parts in an ice cream bucket and use the can and spray it down. The bucket catches the excess liquid and you can use it to soak the small parts. Or let the heavy varnished parts soak.
Berryman's B12 used to sell the "hobby sized" small container and bucket at many auto supplies. The mechanic shops bought the 5-gallon version for "dips and overhauls", spreading the cost out over several carb "overhauls". Keeping the lid on it between times. THEN they also washed the dip liquid off the carb items with water and dried them with air pressure.
All I have used for "ages" is the mentioned "spray down" method. All you are generally seeking to remove is the "varnish" and such from the outside of the carb, anyway. Such soft things will not usually accumulate in the inner passages of a metering block, as there should be enough flow of fuel through them to keep them cleaned out. Especially with all of the high-detergent fuels we have had for many years. ANY cleaner, spray or soak, will NOT remove any "hard deposits", just the softer stuff.
Do NOT perceive that if there is "flow" from one orifice to the other that the passage (and drilled orifice within) is completely clean. Hard deposits can be hiding in there, as I discovered in one carb. Having to use a twist drill to get the hidden orifice clean again.
I strongly concur on using safety glasses when you use the spray nozzle on the carb cleaner can! Even if you perceive you are "being safe"! Take NO chances!
What I'd like to know is how did you get the metering block and rear metering plate OFF of the carb main body? On my 4175s, they were glued to the main body and no amount of prying would remove them. New Holley gaskets from the 1990s.
CBODY67
All I have used for "ages" is the mentioned "spray down" method. All you are generally seeking to remove is the "varnish" and such from the outside of the carb, anyway. Such soft things will not usually accumulate in the inner passages of a metering block, as there should be enough flow of fuel through them to keep them cleaned out. Especially with all of the high-detergent fuels we have had for many years. ANY cleaner, spray or soak, will NOT remove any "hard deposits", just the softer stuff.
Do NOT perceive that if there is "flow" from one orifice to the other that the passage (and drilled orifice within) is completely clean. Hard deposits can be hiding in there, as I discovered in one carb. Having to use a twist drill to get the hidden orifice clean again.
I strongly concur on using safety glasses when you use the spray nozzle on the carb cleaner can! Even if you perceive you are "being safe"! Take NO chances!
What I'd like to know is how did you get the metering block and rear metering plate OFF of the carb main body? On my 4175s, they were glued to the main body and no amount of prying would remove them. New Holley gaskets from the 1990s.
CBODY67
volksworld
Well-Known Member
Berryman still sells the one gallon can with the strainer bucket in it but its still like 40 bucks at Autozone etc
Berryman's, and also I plan on investing in a sonic cleaner for parts, Avoid acidic compounds, will eat aluminum or pot metal
Don't forget the tag wire to clean out those small passages.
Yes, but test them first. Carb cleaners can instantly turn the plastic bristle brushes into goo…..in your little passages and orfices.
I have used white vinegar on a bunch of carbs with no problems. You don't need to let it sit for days. It works well, is cheap and you can dump it outside on some weeds you don't want when you get done. I keep a gallon on hand at all times and even reuse it sometimes.
Captainfury
Member
I wouldnt ever use vinegar, or any other acidic substance on carby parts. Vinegar, like any other acid will tend to corrode ( obviously) any metal, as will high pH substances such as caustic soda( lye, sodium hydroxide) etc.
Carby spray or kerosene or diesel are pretty safe, and tend to dissolve buildup in hard to reach areas. Thats my 20cents worth.
Cheers, and its off again this morning for a walk up to the local mechanics' yard down the back to ponder life, the universe, and all things mechanical and mopar, while tinkering with the 71 NYer( again).
My answer is a dip in a bath of kerosene or diesel.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Remember to check all passages. I use an air gun on an air compressor hose.
I once rebuilt a Holley 2-barrel 3 times because of a clogged air bleed passage. Finally, I stuffed a piece of coathanger up one of the passages and out came all this gray/black carbon that looked like granulated gun powder. Truck finally passed emissions after that.
I once rebuilt a Holley 2-barrel 3 times because of a clogged air bleed passage. Finally, I stuffed a piece of coathanger up one of the passages and out came all this gray/black carbon that looked like granulated gun powder. Truck finally passed emissions after that.
My issue was a "deposit-reduced size" Low Speed Jet in a Carter BBD. Car would not idle when it was off-idle when warm. Used the spray cleaner and all looked to be good, but it was not.
Finally found where the LSJ was, near the bottom of the solid brass idle feed tube. Got a bent-wire spark plug gap gauge and started to probe the hole. It kept getting bigger. Got a set of twist drills at the local hobby store, went bigger until I "got brass". Washed everything out. Car idled fine since then.
Finally found where the LSJ was, near the bottom of the solid brass idle feed tube. Got a bent-wire spark plug gap gauge and started to probe the hole. It kept getting bigger. Got a set of twist drills at the local hobby store, went bigger until I "got brass". Washed everything out. Car idled fine since then.
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