Fuselage - Drums to Disc Brake Conversion

I would PREFER to keep it all OEM parts. The issue is just I don't know if I'm up to the job; removing the old spindles and installing new pieces off another car. It's a big job for me, even IF everything goes right (which I know won't happen, lol).
IMHO, you are much more likely to have some sort of issue with a kit. You're using a mishmash of odd parts that should work. They are depending on your mechanical ability to put them all together and make them work.

I did a search here and found 8 pages of posts with the word "scarebird" in them. The majority were early 60's cars.... So you aren't going to have a lot of expertise here to draw from if you run into a problem. Pulling a stock front end apart and reassembling it? There's some here that can do it in their sleep.

Let me ask you this... Are the ball joints anywhere near needing to be replaced? If you are thinking of rebuilding the front end in the future, the spindle swap becomes a lot easier.

The tools you need are a big hammer and some pickle forks. It isn't rocket surgery, but it is heavy work. Do you have a good mechanic that could do the work for you? That's another option.
 
IMHO, you are much more likely to have some sort of issue with a kit. You're using a mishmash of odd parts that should work. They are depending on your mechanical ability to put them all together and make them work.

I did a search here and found 8 pages of posts with the word "scarebird" in them. The majority were early 60's cars.... So you aren't going to have a lot of expertise here to draw from if you run into a problem. Pulling a stock front end apart and reassembling it? There's some here that can do it in their sleep.

Let me ask you this... Are the ball joints anywhere near needing to be replaced? If you are thinking of rebuilding the front end in the future, the spindle swap becomes a lot easier.

The tools you need are a big hammer and some pickle forks. It isn't rocket surgery, but it is heavy work. Do you have a good mechanic that could do the work for you? That's another option.

I think both options (OEM/Scarebird) have positive and negative points:

OEM:
Positives:
1. Keeps it all Chrysler, 2. Parts availability in the future (if ever needed), no guesswork and praying it will all work together properly and perfectly 3. Less expensive.
Negatives: 1. I've never did a job like this on my car, on any car I've had. Its an easy walk in the park job for some, but not for those who have never done it before. I'm very apprehensive about mucking around with the front suspension aside from changing shocks or brake shoes or adjusting torsion bars. I really don't know what's involved -- thru first hand experience. Yeah the FSM explains it, in a perfect sterilized world.

SB:
Positives:
1. Bypass spindle swap entirely. 2. Keep my original parts 3. Less work, same results (very attractive).
Negatives: 1. Mishmash of parts (Chrysler, Ford, GM..not crazy about this). No guarantee it will be hassle free down the road.

I totally get the "It should work"...its been my experience that this usually is more like its not gonna work perfectly, as it should...which means sooner or later problems will appear somewhere down the road. I don't want to be sorry that I didn't choose curtain no.1.
The ball joints were replaced around four years ago...and I haven't seen any indication they need to be replaced; neither wheel is caving inward and I'm not hearing that familiar "groan" noise the bearings make when they are worn. The car drives true and straight and relatively smooth at speeds.

I know full well there are guys out there who can do it blind and its not rocket science, but this will by my first time, so in a way it kinda is..until I've done it once. I guess I just want to be cautious before getting into this. Whatever route I take, I'm not gonna pay a shop to do the work. I've done everything else on my car....except for refreshing the heads...that HAD to be done at a shop (but I removed them, took there there, told them what I wanted and then reinstalled them myself). So whatever route I choose, I'm gonna do it myself.

The SB setup would install easier, no futzing with the spindles; but then no guarantee there won't be problems down the road because of the different parts working together. The OEM job is gonna be a lot harder to do, but I feel there is a better chance of everything working properly...forever. I'm not saying the SB won't, based on what other's here have said...its working for them. However, intuition tells me all Chrysler parts work the best with all Chrysler parts now and miles down the road and this gives me little more piece of mind.
 
I think inner Bearings are Ferd.
Outers are Mopar.
They give you a Sleeve to put on the Knuckle also.
OK.
On the inner, you have a Ford bearing on a Mopar spindle.
On the outer, you have a Mopar bearing on a Ford rotor.
And add a custom sleeve to the mix...
 
You could look at it this way... The only thing that has to be done is to R & R the spindles.

You know how to adjust the torsion bars, so you have that covered. The spindles will take loosening the bars, and removing the cotter pins and nuts from the spindles. Breaking them loose with a pickle fork just requires a couple swings with a BFH. That's all! They've been apart once already, so they will come apart again.

Everything else you do will be the same amount of wrenching as the Scarebird kit.
 
My two cents is if you can use factory parts, do so. Swapping the spindles is not that bad, and, unless you are doing a complete front-end rebuild, you don't need to touch the torsion bars at all, except to "unload" them when you start the job.

If '73 and up parts are getting hard to find, and '72 and older are being reproduced at a decent price, it should make finding a donor car easier. I went (mistakenly) with a '71 set-up, and the rotors alone were over $400. But I used new calipers and other hardware, while using the donor brake plates and spindles.

You will also need a proportioning valve from a donor car as well, and a master cylinder that is disk-specific. If you get all of the correct parts it can be done in a weekend.

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You could look at it this way... The only thing that has to be done is to R & R the spindles.

You know how to adjust the torsion bars, so you have that covered. The spindles will take loosening the bars, and removing the cotter pins and nuts from the spindles. Breaking them loose with a pickle fork just requires a couple swings with a BFH. That's all! They've been apart once already, so they will come apart again.

Everything else you do will be the same amount of wrenching as the Scarebird kit.
Putting it that way makes it sound a whole lot better Big John.

My two cents is if you can use factory parts, do so. Swapping the spindles is not that bad, and, unless you are doing a complete front-end rebuild, you don't need to touch the torsion bars at all, except to "unload" them when you start the job.

If '73 and up parts are getting hard to find, and '72 and older are being reproduced at a decent price, it should make finding a donor car easier. I went (mistakenly) with a '71 set-up, and the rotors alone were over $400. But I used new calipers and other hardware, while using the donor brake plates and spindles.

You will also need a proportioning valve from a donor car as well, and a master cylinder that is disk-specific. If you get all of the correct parts it can be done in a weekend.

View attachment 74703 View attachment 74704 View attachment 74705 View attachment 74706
Thanks Snotty, I REALLY appreciate the pics....worth a million and a half words for me. I really hate reading directions, lol.
 
I have many more if you'd like to see them.

I just like using factory stuff if possible. I did a similar swap on my Son's gremlin, using all parts from a '79 AMC Spirit. It's a bolt-up with no problems, and I don't need to remember any specific parts in future years.
 
If you notice in the pictures, and something I had forgotten, if you do swap using other Chrysler parts, you don't need to remove anything off of the lower control arm. Once you loosen the two lower carriage bolts, that arm swings away. It's then just a matter of separating the upper spindle from the upper ball-joint.

I did do this swap after having rebuilt my entire front suspension some four years earlier so I was not concerned about the ball-joints, etc. If your suspension has not been looked at, swapping for disks is a perfect time to do the front suspension. That's what I did on the Gremlin; rebuilt the front suspensions I did the swap.

Other that doing shocks and brakes I had never worked on a front suspension before. It wasn't really that hard, in my opinion.
 
My two cents is if you can use factory parts, do so. Swapping the spindles is not that bad, and, unless you are doing a complete front-end rebuild, you don't need to touch the torsion bars at all, except to "unload" them when you start the job.

If '73 and up parts are getting hard to find, and '72 and older are being reproduced at a decent price, it should make finding a donor car easier. I went (mistakenly) with a '71 set-up, and the rotors alone were over $400. But I used new calipers and other hardware, while using the donor brake plates and spindles.

You will also need a proportioning valve from a donor car as well, and a master cylinder that is disk-specific. If you get all of the correct parts it can be done in a weekend.

View attachment 74703 View attachment 74704 View attachment 74705 View attachment 74706
Thanks for posting the pictures, saved me a lot of typing.
 
I have many more if you'd like to see them.

I just like using factory stuff if possible. I did a similar swap on my Son's gremlin, using all parts from a '79 AMC Spirit. It's a bolt-up with no problems, and I don't need to remember any specific parts in future years.

If you notice in the pictures, and something I had forgotten, if you do swap using other Chrysler parts, you don't need to remove anything off of the lower control arm. Once you loosen the two lower carriage bolts, that arm swings away. It's then just a matter of separating the upper spindle from the upper ball-joint.

I did do this swap after having rebuilt my entire front suspension some four years earlier so I was not concerned about the ball-joints, etc. If your suspension has not been looked at, swapping for disks is a perfect time to do the front suspension. That's what I did on the Gremlin; rebuilt the front suspensions I did the swap.

Other that doing shocks and brakes I had never worked on a front suspension before. It wasn't really that hard, in my opinion.
I would definitely appreciate seeing more pics of the process that it took to go from drums to discs. After getting the car up on jacks stands I wouldn't know exactly where to start. Images would be very helpful. Although I don't necessarily have an issue with using after market parts; in this situation I think I would prefer to use all Chrysler parts. I should start looking for the proper spindles, rotors/calipers.
 
I would definitely appreciate seeing more pics of the process that it took to go from drums to discs. After getting the car up on jacks stands I wouldn't know exactly where to start. Images would be very helpful. Although I don't necessarily have an issue with using after market parts; in this situation I think I would prefer to use all Chrysler parts. I should start looking for the proper spindles, rotors/calipers.
 
When you jack it up, put the jack stands under the lower control arms (I like to use under the shock absorber) the weight of the car will hold it and you won't have to mess with the torsion bar adjustment. Then all you have to remove is the upper ball joint and the two bolts that hold the spindle to the lower ball joint.
 
When you jack it up, put the jack stands under the lower control arms (I like to use under the shock absorber) the weight of the car will hold it and you won't have to mess with the torsion bar adjustment. Then all you have to remove is the upper ball joint and the two bolts that hold the spindle to the lower ball joint.
Yep, it's been a few years since I've done ball joints and I forgot you could do that.
 
I'm sure this has been asked, I mighta even asked it.. but why cant we use spindles, or the whole setup, off a newer c body? I've got a 77 NY'er donating its powertrain and it's a damn shame if I leave the disc brakes behind.
 
The 74-78 spindles cannot be used on any other car.
The 74-78 rotors will only fit a 73 spindle.
 
When you jack it up, put the jack stands under the lower control arms (I like to use under the shock absorber) the weight of the car will hold it and you won't have to mess with the torsion bar adjustment. Then all you have to remove is the upper ball joint and the two bolts that hold the spindle to the lower ball joint.
I wouldn't, and don't do that. All it takes to unload the torsion bars is a decent air ratchet and some time. Also, why spend time fighting around the jackstand? Put it under the unitbody and have all of the space you need.
 
Here are a group of pictures:
Original drums. I had to use spacers to mount the Shelby 500s I use.
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I removed the sway bar and used new bushings and hardware when I reinstalled.
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Backing plates now gone and lower carriage bolts removed.
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Using a separator tool, I removed the spindle.
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The passenger side upper ball joint had actually failed, so I replaced it. This can be tough without air tools and proper sockets. I borrowed the latter from a mechanic buddy.
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With new ball joint installed, and attached the disk spindle.
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Then reattached the lower carriage bolts.
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I wouldn't, and don't do that. All it takes to unload the torsion bars is a decent air ratchet and some time. Also, why spend time fighting around the jackstand? Put it under the unitbody and have all of the space you need.
I take it you have never worked on one of these from the rust belt. I have seen the torsion bar adjusters so frozen you had to heat them for 10 min. with a torch to get them to unload.
 
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