Fuselage - Drums to Disc Brake Conversion

[Snotty]

Continuing, since I can only post 10 pictures at a time....

Put on the backing plate, freshly sandblasted. (These things were UGLY!!!)

Attached the caliper bracket.

Then put on the rotor. This was when I learned that I had mix-matched parts. The bearing nut would not tighten down until it hit a point where the rotor would not turn. Not good! My mechanic buddy came by after work and said, "Scotty, these old rotors are for a '71, not a '73." I had to go back ad get new rotors, calipers, bearings, caps, and brake hoses for '71s. That turned a weekend job into a four-week trek through Hell.

The correct one. Look closely and you can see a difference.

Caliper in place.

Brake hose attached.

Sway bar back in place.

Time to put the wheels back on.

Then I had to address the MC, lines, and prop valve.

And... done!!

 

[Snotty]

I take it you have never worked on one of these from the rust belt. I have seen the torsion bar adjusters so frozen you had to heat them for 10 min. with a torch to get them to unload.

Just one, but commonly, no.

 

[70_NPORT]

Here are a group of pictures:
Original drums. I had to use spacers to mount the Shelby 500s I use.
View attachment 74727 I removed the sway bar and used new bushings and hardware when I reinstalled.
View attachment 74728 View attachment 74729 Backing plates now gone and lower carriage bolts removed.
View attachment 74730 Using a separator tool, I removed the spindle.
View attachment 74731 The passenger side upper ball joint had actually failed, so I replaced it. This can be tough without air tools and proper sockets. I borrowed the latter from a mechanic buddy.
View attachment 74732 View attachment 74733 View attachment 74734 With new ball joint installed, and attached the disk spindle.
View attachment 74735 Then reattached the lower carriage bolts.
View attachment 74736

WOW Snotty, much oblige...these pics are absolutely priceless for me and will def be helpful when I start this on my car...which is almost exactly like yours (mine is a hardtop and 383). I don't know if I will be able to do it in one weekend, but it def "looks" doable over a saturday/sunday time period. THANKS!
One question however..What is this "separator tool" used to remove the spindle?

 

[detmatt]

One question however..What is this "separator tool" used to remove the spindle?

That would be a pickle fork.

 

[detmatt]

[QUOTE="Snotty, post: 343899, member: 4420]

Put on the backing plate, freshly sandblasted. (These things were UGLY!!!)
[/QUOTE]
Did you coat these with anything after they were sandblasted?

 

[70_NPORT]

That would be a pickle fork.

Thanks Matt!

 

[70_NPORT]

So I'm guessing this "B" body kit with 11" discs (also comes with spindles and related hardware) will not fit a "C" body car. The spindles are different between the C's and the B cars?

I have an inquiry in with Murray Park about C body spindles they might have laying around.

 

[Snotty]

That would be a pickle fork.

Yep!!

There are devices you can purchase that will separate them, that work like bearing pullers. But the old pickle fork works very well.

 

[Snotty]

[QUOTE="Snotty, post: 343899, member: 4420]

Put on the backing plate, freshly sandblasted. (These things were UGLY!!!)

Did you coat these with anything after they were sandblasted?[/QUOTE]
No, just Rustoleum paint, the grey color you see in the pic. The driver's side was so rusty it had a small hole in it. Since it's just a dust cover I used it anyway.

 

[Big_John]

I bought a pickle fork attachment for my air chisel a couple years back. Works great on tie rod ends, but I haven't tried a ball joint yet. Anybody ever use one on a ball joint?

 

[Snotty]

WOW Snotty, much oblige...these pics are absolutely priceless for me and will def be helpful when I start this on my car...which is almost exactly like yours (mine is a hardtop and 383).

You're very welcome. My car was originally a 383 2bbl as well, but the original owner wold not leave the Dealer unless they installed a 440 in it; it has a '71 440 in it as the car sold new fir the first time on August 31, 1971.

I'd much rather have a 383HP motor than this gas-swigging 440!

 

[Snotty]

So I'm guessing this "B" body kit with 11" discs (also comes with spindles and related hardware) will not fit a "C" body car. The spindles are different between the C's and the B cars?

I have an inquiry in with Murray Park about C body spindles they might have laying around.

Yes, Bs ad Cs are quite different in size. Another one of the hold-ups for me was the driver's side caliper they originally sold me would not mount on the rotor, no matter what I tried. I took it back to the shop where my mechanic Buddy, Big Chris Fredricksen, just so happened to be there getting parts for a project. As I walked in he looked at the caliper in my hand and said, "What are you doing with that B-Body caliper?" He knew it instantly! Once I got the correct one it mounted with ease!

 

[70_NPORT]

Yes, Bs ad Cs are quite different in size. Another one of the hold-ups for me was the driver's side caliper they originally sold me would not mount on the rotor, no matter what I tried. I took it back to the shop where my mechanic Buddy, Big Chris Fredricksen, just so happened to be there getting parts for a project. As I walked in he looked at the caliper in my hand and said, "What are you doing with that B-Body caliper?" He knew it instantly! Once I got the correct one it mounted with ease!

Ok got it. Sounds like your mechanic has a pretty good eye, lol.

 

[Snotty]

Ok got it. Sounds like your mechanic has a pretty good eye, lol.

He's a great mechanic and he knows his Mopars!! It's very nice to have good friends who will help.


Here he is with me under the Gremlin putting the transmission back in. I'm the grey-haired guy on the right.

 

[commando1]

I bought a pickle fork attachment for my air chisel a couple years back. Works great on tie rod ends, but I haven't tried a ball joint yet. Anybody ever use one on a ball joint?

Yes. It still refused to budge and I murdered that thing.
Finally broke it free with something like this:

¾" breaker bar and 3' pipe. When it finally popped, it sounded like a cherry bomb.

 

[70_NPORT]

He's a great mechanic and he knows his Mopars!! It's very nice to have good friends who will help.


Here he is with me under the Gremlin putting the transmission back in. I'm the grey-haired guy on the right.
View attachment 74780

Nice! Having a mechanic friend must really come in handy at times I bet. I'm the only individual in my family who will spin wrenches, unfortunately. Hence, I pretty much do everything myself...all that I can that is.

 

[traintech55]

Yes. It still refused to budge and I murdered that thing.
Finally broke it free with something like this:
Commando, isn't that the factory ball joint separator tool? It has been 35 years since I've seen one but looks awful familiar.

¾" breaker bar and 3' pipe. When it finally popped, it sounded like a cherry bomb.

 

[Samplingman]

One question however..What is this "separator tool" used to remove the spindle?

This is what I used. $20 at Harbor Freight.

 

[70_NPORT]

This is what I used. $20 at Harbor Freight.[/QUOTE]So that's the pickle fork?

 

[detmatt]

This is a pickle fork, it seperated more suspension joints that a ball joint seperator.