1968 383 4 Bbl super commando, stuck lifter

CaravelleMan

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Hey I bought a 1968 Fury 3, and drove it around about 50 miles before heading home. The next day we were off to go home and a mile in the oil lamp came on, I pulled over and checked the oil, and it was at the ADD line. I put a quart in and the engine began to clank, and the light remained on. Fearing perhaps the oil pump went out I turned it off and I called the seller who gave my money back, told me he would look into it and fix it, and I can buy it back if I still wanted.
So about a week later he let 3 mechanics look at it, the light has gone off, but the clank is still there, they say it is a stuck lifter and to drain the oil, re oil it, and add Lucas stabilizer to live the top end.
I am not a fan of fixes in a bottle and I'm 200 miles away from it, what do yall think?
 
The owner should take care of it before he sells or knock the cost of parts and labor off for the worst case scenario which would be cam and lifters and a new timing set.
 
Hmm but I've heard that Lucas is no good for an engine, when I get it back would draining and filling it up with new oil take care of the Lucas in it?
 
If they still own the car, it's not your responsibility to fix anything...and if it's such an easy cure as they explain, then why haven't they done it?
 
Cause it didn't start until I was leaving town with it. He hasn't gotten back to me on the results yet, I'm just afraid that the Lucas will make it sound better, but not really fix the problem. Or would it indeed help with lubrication?
 
It's def the right car, I like everything else about it, and I understand it's bound to have an issue, I was just wondering how yall feel about his fix.
 
1.) lucky homeboy refunded you in the first place
2.) if it is 'the' car - this small issue has no importance
3.) stuck clanking lifter is (relatively) minor issue. it could be worse
4.) lucas will help that valve loose if it is stuck
5.) a true paid-for mechanic can check the valvetrain / lifters in like a half hour. probably takes longer to put everything back together.

try not to die -

- saylor
 
Clank??
Everyone's perception of noises is described differently... but "clank" and an oil light is more than a stuck lifter. Especially the oil light... That meant there was no oil pressure, not low on oil.

A lifter noise would be a clicking sound. A stuck lifter would not cause no/low oil pressure.

I would be very concerned about any damage to bearings etc. At minimum, ask to have an oil pressure gauge installed. At your expense if necessary.

The alternative is understanding the risks of buying this car as it sits. It may be no problem or worst case, it may grenade and you have to start from scratch with another block, crank etc. It can get expensive.
 
OK I'll have him put the oil gauge on when he fixed the fuel gauge. Yeah I was concerned about what if it completely fails. It's a risk I think I'll take, I have a place to work on it and it's out of the way, and I'm making alright money, enough to invest into it. The values for it is the only reason I'm even going to do it, I like the four doors too, but I wouldn't even think about these risks if it were a four door.
 
Worn out bearings is the cause of low oil pressure.
 
Low oil pressure or no oil pressure? If the light came on, that means 5 PSI or lower... To me that means no oil pressure.

That could be from a plugged or cracked oil pickup, bad/worn/spun bearings, broken oil pump shaft, bad oil pump.... The list goes on and on.
 
It was a noticeable change, right after I put that quart in. Now I added it to the opening on the drivers side valve cover where it says oil and connects to the air cleaner, when the seller came by he unscrewed a different cap that was on the front of the engine. Would it have mattered by which opening I put the oil into?
 
What engine is in the car, and how many miles are on this engine?
 
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