MarPar
Meat Man with a Hat
^^^^this.
a clunk{ing} is no gouda.
a tick for a 5-10 minutes then it goes away after it warms up, probably lifter. clunking spun bearing.
run, dont walk. other fish in the sea.
1968 383 4 Bbl super commando, stuck lifter
- Thread starter CaravelleMan
- Start date
^^^^this.
a clunk{ing} is no gouda.
a tick for a 5-10 minutes then it goes away after it warms up, probably lifter. clunking spun bearing.
run, dont walk. other fish in the sea.
Fratzog
Old Man with a Hat
All the alarm bells should be ringing. Be patient and keep looking...
The Horvaths
Young man with a cowboy hat
LOL! Buying a C body has nothing to do with its monetary value. They are not valuable. At all. And they most likely never will be. Do not make the mistake of buying this car as an investment. It will not pan out. The only reason to buy a car like this is for the love of cruisin' in and diggin it.
Just my honest opinion.
CaravelleMan
Member
I understand what you all are saying, I just have another question before I make a decision.
If it is indeed a spun bearing, could the sound come and go? Because he sent me video with the sound gone, and the sound is gone.
If it is indeed a spun bearing, could the sound come and go? Because he sent me video with the sound gone, and the sound is gone.
CanCritter
Senior Member
editing perchance.,,,,,,best heed the advise given
tbm3fan
Old Man with a Hat
I would say it depends as far as noise. My wife's Sable was making a little ticking sound and to me it sounded like a lifter. Ok, thought I would change out the older oil for Platinum Plus which did miracles for the ticking in my 91 Mazda. Start the car and immediately hear an ominous whack and shut the car down. WTH! Started the car again and it went whack, whack, whack pretty loud. However, no engine lights and the whole time the car idled normally. Whack sped up when giving the engine gas. Tried Marvel Mystery oil, 1 pint, but no luck.
Let sit for a month and just took off the intake on Saturday. There it was. All lifters had drained over the month except one that had a big puddle of oil on top. Now I am waiting for my new lifters as I decided to replace all rather then ever having to do this again. I assume something got into the lifter to cause the issue as everything else is fine from valves, to bottom end, to clean oil pan.
MarPar
Meat Man with a Hat
please dont take this the wrong way...im not trying to be a dick. at all.
dont delude yourself into making a bad purchase.
(if you REALLY have to) make the 200 mile truck and get your eyes, ears and sniffer on it one more time and see then.
Give the car another full physical.
After you are done, walk away and ask yourself one question...
am I ready to yank a motor and COMPLETELY rebuild it if I have to?
As I said, everyone's perception of a noise is going to be different... But the big problem is no oil pressure and a noise. The only way a lifter would cause a loss of oil pressure is if there was some sort of valvetrain breakage and the lifter came out of it's bore. I've only seen this once and that was in a drag car where the pushrod pierced the rocker arm and the lifter popped up out of its bore. In a street car at low RPM with less violent cam ramp, and some sticky oil sludge, it's a lot less likely to come out.
If this was a car that the OP already owned, it might be a different story. Check a few things, see if it still does it etc. In this case, the OP is buying the car and it's now a matter of gambling or walking away. That's not our decision to make.
CaravelleMan
Member
OK I see, thank you everyone, I'll sleep on it and come up with a decision in the morning
tbm3fan
Old Man with a Hat
Just relating a story about noise.
In this situation, if I was buying instead of owning, I would have to say no till the problem was sorted or be given a hell of a discount for me to take on the possible problem.
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FWIW, I love to buy cars like this if the price is adjusted to reflect the condition. 4 of 5 times it is something I can fix without too much drama, the other cases are easy too if you don't mind a non-matching engine.
I'm not a flipper, I would only invest the time and cash if I wanted to keep her. To make a car ready for sale at my standards would require more investment than reward... and then I don't want the hassle of selling.
There is no price reference other than it wouldn't be worth it on a 4 door, so I doubt the car is that hot a deal. commando1 has a good chance of being right with the spun bearing theory, but I can't match the description of the noise to that... not that it is a particularly good description BTW.
Unless you are willing to risk an engine failure, classic car ownership may not be in the cards for you...any car at any time could have this kind of issue. At time of purchase simply allows for price adjustments or the chance to reevaluate your willingness to deal with such stuff.
Good luck, whatever you decide.
I'm not a flipper, I would only invest the time and cash if I wanted to keep her. To make a car ready for sale at my standards would require more investment than reward... and then I don't want the hassle of selling.
There is no price reference other than it wouldn't be worth it on a 4 door, so I doubt the car is that hot a deal. commando1 has a good chance of being right with the spun bearing theory, but I can't match the description of the noise to that... not that it is a particularly good description BTW.
Unless you are willing to risk an engine failure, classic car ownership may not be in the cards for you...any car at any time could have this kind of issue. At time of purchase simply allows for price adjustments or the chance to reevaluate your willingness to deal with such stuff.
Good luck, whatever you decide.
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If it miraculously regains oil pressure and the noise goes away and you go back for a look, pull the dipstick and make sure it's straight engine oil and not some concoction of 80w90 and whatever else could possibly make for a temporary fix.
CaravelleMan
Member
OK, I'll go up to give it a thorough look after his repairs are complete before buying, the price is 7,500 btw. I know any classic is going to have issues, I want a driver, I don't have a garage and am not looking for or holding out for a valuable classic. My interpretation of the sound may very well not be something terrible, but with no doubt the oil light came on, and stayed on until we headed back to his shop, for some reason the light went off after that. I am going to call him today to see if he has made any progress. Thanks again everyone
67Monaco
Go Woke, Go Broke.
75Hundo for a 68 with problems? Nah, there's LOTS of other cars out there. Unless everything else is pristine, then maybe.
CaravelleMan
Member
Paint is good, all the trim is good, top good, back seats have a few tips at the top, no parade boot, no condenser for the ac, Windows have a little alignment issue, but adjusting them to make things work now and again is all it takes. Needs an alignment and tie rods.
67Monaco
Go Woke, Go Broke.
When your sitting on the side of the interstate with a blown engine,you'll have plenty of time to admire the paint while your waiting for the tow truck. I agree with 67Monaco. Keep looking.
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CaravelleMan
Member
I see your point
CaravelleMan
Member
Hey I was describing the car, I am fully aware of the potential engine issue.
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