Voltage regulator?
- Thread starter Joekay
- Start date
I didn't realize my in box was full. Sorry. Fixed that.
What is the output of your Powermaster Alternator? The solid state / electronic voltage regulators that I and others sell are rated to a max alternator output of 65 amps by the manufacturer. Therefore, in addition to the inadequate factory wiring as mentioned in an earlier post (I would not use an alternator with more than a 50 amp output with factory wiring) the solid state voltage regulator will have a shorter life span.
What is the output of your Powermaster Alternator? The solid state / electronic voltage regulators that I and others sell are rated to a max alternator output of 65 amps by the manufacturer. Therefore, in addition to the inadequate factory wiring as mentioned in an earlier post (I would not use an alternator with more than a 50 amp output with factory wiring) the solid state voltage regulator will have a shorter life span.
Ugh im about to toas this powermaster on the shelf and grab the the spare oriellys special. I really just like how this one looked. And i gave 40 bucks for it. Never new putting all the nice parts on this car would be such an issue.
This forum is here to help people like you and to help with questions, share knowledge and share are own mistakes.
Guys, I am running the Powermaster 70 amp "roundback" alternator.
With the wiring beefed up and electronic voltage regulator installed and thousands of miles no issues yet.
With the wiring beefed up and electronic voltage regulator installed and thousands of miles no issues yet.
VR from Autozone swapped under original cover...
What it looks like under the hood.
Note the violet jumper wire on the alternator grounded for the second field.
AND ..running the electronic ignition, Other members wondered if running a single field was possible with ECU and YES you can!!
Second pic shows extra wire and fusible link at starter wire that goes to the battery stud of alternator.
Note the violet jumper wire on the alternator grounded for the second field.
AND ..running the electronic ignition, Other members wondered if running a single field was possible with ECU and YES you can!!
Second pic shows extra wire and fusible link at starter wire that goes to the battery stud of alternator.
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You are dealing with a car built a couple generations before your time where the technology is totally different and some of today's technology can be used to make it more reliable..
Not knowing the car's quirks and quarks can lead you into problems,so a little bit of homework can come in handy.
We are here to educate.
Do not get discouraged,just ask for help on this forum where there are many members that can share invaluable information,tips,trick and know the weak links in our beloved C's.
Some aftermarket products say they will work but just don't gel with the old stuff.
Again,get some feedback,do some homework.
Get a factory shop manual.
Kudos to you for bringing a car back to life.
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Mike66Chryslers
Senior Member
Leaburn, if you're referring to Ross' thread, he wasn't asking about running electronic ignition with an alternator with single field terminal, but electronic ignition with mechanical voltage regulator. If you're talking about some other conversation, never mind this comment.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Bill and everyone: I have a more than passing interest in this thread, and I hope I'm not high-jacking it. As you may know, I'm in the middle of sorting out the adjustments and operation of a new 440 engine in my '66 300 convertible. I installed a new REMY alternator (from RockAuto) and also one of your solid state voltage regulators, so that everything would be new and reliable. Unfortunately, there is a problem in the charging circuit that restricts charging output from the alternator to only 12.53 volts (as tested at the regulator). According to the specs, it should be up around 15.0 volts or so. I think there is high resistance somewhere, but I'm at a loss as to where it could be (headlight switch, amp gauge, fusible link, etc. Of course, everything was working fine a year ago before I pulled the old engine . . . Has anyone had a similar problem and / or an idea as to what / where the problem may be?
Mike66Chryslers
Senior Member
Is it the newer style alternator with 2 field terminals or the old style with 1 field terminal? If 2 field terminals, did you connect the unused one to ground?
Since you swapped engines, did you make sure to reconnect the ground strap between the back of the passenger-side cylinder head and the firewall?
In case those two suggestions don't lead to a solution, do you have a handheld multimeter and how knowledgeable are you with operating it? Do you have a 12V test light with alligator clips? Have you bypassed the bulkhead connector and ammeter with something like the MAD conversion or is the charging wiring stock?
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Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Mike: Thanks for your reply. The alternator is the old style with one FLD and one BAT terminal. There is a new ground strap attached to the firewall from the RH cylinder head. As regards the multi-meter: I have one. . .
There's a very simple test. Take the field wire off the alternator and connect the alternator field connection to 12 volts. A jumper to the battery connection on the alternator is the easiest way. Connect a volt meter to the battery, turn the headlights on and start the car. If the voltage goes up (over 14, more likely 15 or more), the VR is at fault. If it stays the same, the alternator is the culprit.
This is the basic test outlined in the Chrysler FSM etc. The only difference is we are using the headlights to load the battery rather than a carbon pile.
Don't run the car long like this as you are overcharging the battery.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Thanks, John. I'll try this test later this afternoon, when I get to The Garage Mahal. . .
Mike66Chryslers
Senior Member
You beat me to it
but before I suggested that test I wanted to know about the charging circuit. If the bulkhead or ammeter connections are weak, you may smoke them doing this test.
Keep in mind that having a good ground is crucial. If you recently painted the engine bay sometimes the screws and bolts mounting the engine ground strap or the voltage regulator don't create a good ground because of paint in the mounting holes and require doing something to get some bare metal to create a ground.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Thanks, Bill. I'll check that out too.
Ive double checked the field wire, grounded the second alt field location. And added a 10g wire from alt to starter. Voltage regulator comes monday. Also got the neutral safety switch figured out. Just for future reference since the tci outlaw has no definative park you have to move ahifter a bit to get it to contact the safety switch. Or use neutral. Heres to hoping no smoke from the new regulator. Thanks for all the help so far.
The extra wire from alternator is supposed to go to the battery stud of the starter RELAY not the starter itself.
I hope you installed either a fusilbe link or in-line fuse on that wire.
I never did like aftermarket shifters.Had one in my 83 Ramcharger and hated it.
Installation and operating it was a pain in the ***
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