Remove 413 oil pan dent on car?

[mopar440]

1965 413, any old school ways to remove this dent it's pretty big. doesn't need to be perfect just needs to get the motor some oil.

no real access inside through the drain plug, I was thinking maybe welding some bolts on the pan and pulling on those? I've never tried it tho.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Does it not get the motor some oil as is? If it does I'd leave it be. I've seen much worse dents in sumps that performed just fine.

And that pan's steel is damn robust, so bending it to shape without removing is impossible, IMO. And do you really want to weld bolts/nuts to that pan, what with oil inside (even if you drain if for days, oil will linger in the pan, especially a dented one like that.

Leave it be.

 

[1978 NYB]

I would take the pan off and pound it back out from the inside.

 

[mopar440]

The oil light flickers, no noises. The picture doesn't really show how bad it is

This is my winter project, so I'm almost ready to start test driving, but I'm worried about the dent. I really don't want to remove if it, if I don't have to

Maybe some type of industrial epoxy for the pulling bolts?

 

[Wollfen]

Given that oil light is flickering, that has nothing to do with the dent, the pickup sits near the bottom of the pan as it is, even with a big dent the pickup is still able to take up oil. I'm thinking the pickup may be blocked or your oil pump may be worn. The pickups do fill up with gunk.
Taking the pan off will take a couple of hours but doesn't require any special tools or skills. Firstly disconnect the draglink under the pan to give you some clearance, then undo the two bolts that hold the engine mount rubbers in place. The drivers side bolt is accessed from behind the mount in front of the starter motor. The passenger bolt from the front side of the mount under the alternator. Then place a block of wood under the harmonic balance and jack up the engine slowly a few inches, then getting the pan out is relatively easy.
Thus you can check the pickup at the same time as seeing what crud you may have in the pan. Also look for chunks of little yellowed plastic, if you have that, then you will need a new timing gear and chain.
All of this is important and good for preventative maintenance, potentially saving you big dollars later.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Maybe some type of industrial epoxy for the pulling bolts?

1. Oil light flickering probably has nothing to do with this dent. Is enough oil in the pan to submerge the pump pickup? You should consider installing an inexpensive OP gage, either for temporary diagnosis or permanently under your dash like many of us do--Volts/Water Temp/OP. Screw a 1/4" NPT Tee into the block and you can have your light and your new gage.

2. There isn't an industrial epoxy in the known universe that will stick to that pan and allow you to pull that robust steel pan back to shape. IT'S THICK STEEL!

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Given that oil light is flickering, that has nothing to do with the dent, the pickup sits near the bottom of the pan as it is, even with a big dent the pickup is still able to take up oil.
All of this is important and good for preventative maintenance, potentially saving you big dollars later.

Good advice provided here.

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

The oil light flickers, no noises. The picture doesn't really show how bad it is

This is my winter project, so I'm almost ready to start test driving, but I'm worried about the dent. I really don't want to remove if it, if I don't have to

Maybe some type of industrial epoxy for the pulling bolts?

Do it right! Consult the FSM! What is important is the position of the oil pickup strainer.
Here is the 1973 FSM for Dodge 400/440 BB, other engines have their own specs.

 

[mopar440]

Given that I don't know history of the engine, and the car was last tagged in,2001, your right , I should pull it. I just did a oil change..oh well, thanks!

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

You could give your local PDR guy a call and see if he's up to the challenge!
(but that won't take care of the screen alignment if it's pushed up)
VIDEO WARNING! PDR secrets revealed!

 

[Davea Lux]

If you are going to pull the pan, this would be an excellent time to inspect the rods and mains to see if there is any copper showing. You can buy a Plastigauge kit for only several dollars to check the bearing clearances.

Dave

 

[mopar440]

You could give your local PDR guy a call and see if he's up to the challenge!
(but that won't take care of the screen alignment if it's pushed up)
VIDEO WARNING! PDR secrets revealed!

Trust me, I thought of that...lol

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Trust me, I thought of that...lol

That would have to be one seriously badass PDR guy!

 

[3C's & a D?]

If you are going to pull the pan, this would be an excellent time to inspect the rods and mains to see if there is any copper showing. You can buy a Plastigauge kit for only several dollars to check the bearing clearances.

Dave

Definitely do this. If the engine wasn't started in all those years the crank may have sank or lightly seized to the mains. There could be chunks of the bearing material in the pan, which is a sure sign they need replacing. Does the oil light stop flickering when the rpms are increased?

 

[mopar440]

Definitely do this. If the engine wasn't started in all those years the crank may have sank or lightly seized to the mains. There could be chunks of the bearing material in the pan, which is a sure sign they need replacing. Does the oil light stop flickering when the rpms are increased?

No, it doesn't, but I've only run it for 30 seconds at s time. I noticed the wire was just sitting on the sending unit, that may be the problem, I'm still gonna drop the pan

 

[furious70]

What are you trying to do with the engine/car? IMHO pulling some caps to look at bearings almost guarantees you will not have a running engine at the end of the exercise. Don't go looking for what you don't want to find.
#1 try 20w50 oil.
#2 install that mechanical gauge to get a reading
#3 install new oil pump
#4 pull pan to inspect. I've never had to jack up the engine to get the pan out, even with a windage tray on my 70.

 

[mopar440]

What are you trying to do with the engine/car? IMHO pulling some caps to look at bearings almost guarantees you will not have a running engine at the end of the exercise. Don't go looking for what you don't want to find.
#1 try 20w50 oil.
#2 install that mechanical gauge to get a reading
#3 install new oil pump
#4 pull pan to inspect. I've never had to jack up the engine to get the pan out, even with a windage tray on my 70.

It's gonna be a family cruiser, it's a wagon. I'll definitely hook up a gauge to see if I do have a problem

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

It's gonna be a family cruiser, it's a wagon. I'll definitely hook up a gauge to see if I do have a problem

And hook up that sender wire that was sending you a Morse Code about low oil pressure!

 

[mopar440]

And hook up that sender wire that was sending you a Morse Code about low oil pressure!

I'm hoping that's what it was, I'll find out tomorrow

 

[Davea Lux]

What are you trying to do with the engine/car? IMHO pulling some caps to look at bearings almost guarantees you will not have a running engine at the end of the exercise. Don't go looking for what you don't want to find.
#1 try 20w50 oil.
#2 install that mechanical gauge to get a reading
#3 install new oil pump
#4 pull pan to inspect. I've never had to jack up the engine to get the pan out, even with a windage tray on my 70.

I always figure it is better to know about a lower end of an engine that is at the point of failure by running the appropriate checks noted above, than to find out the hard way by having it let loose on the road. But to each his own.

Dave