How to force in wheel studs

Marv

Senior Member
FCBO Gold Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2015
Messages
1,320
Reaction score
2,039
Location
Autobahnland
I´ve to change the wheel studs at the front passenger side as two of them have a thread
that´s toast. Removing is easy, I use a balljoint remover to force them out.. piece of cake.
But forcing the new ones in didn´t work out yesterday. I tried the balljoint remover
the other way around but it would not slip in.
A friend of mine told me to throw the studs into the freezer over night so they shrink just a little bit which would be enough. I´ll try that one
Are there any other ideas in case that doesn´t work out ?
I´ve seen videos where people use a nut and the compressor screwdriver but wouldn´t
that screw up the thread again ?
 
FF5D8197-0613-46F4-9340-B50F7FF4FE84.jpeg
AFE697AA-4BE6-4C37-9171-35AB827AFACB.jpeg
FF5D8197-0613-46F4-9340-B50F7FF4FE84.jpeg
AFE697AA-4BE6-4C37-9171-35AB827AFACB.jpeg
I´ve to change the wheel studs at the front passenger side as two of them have a thread
that´s toast. Removing is easy, I use a balljoint remover to force them out.. piece of cake.
But forcing the new ones in didn´t work out yesterday. I tried the balljoint remover
the other way around but it would not slip in.
A friend of mine told me to throw the studs into the freezer over night so they shrink just a little bit which would be enough. I´ll try that one
Are there any other ideas in case that doesn´t work out ?
I´ve seen videos where people use a nut and the compressor screwdriver but wouldn´t
that screw up the thread again ?
I use a Lisle wheel stud installer and a flat washer. I spray the bearing good so it spins easily & air gun them right in. $20 bucks on amazon
 
I´ve to change the wheel studs at the front passenger side as two of them have a thread
that´s toast. Removing is easy, I use a balljoint remover to force them out.. piece of cake.
But forcing the new ones in didn´t work out yesterday. I tried the balljoint remover
the other way around but it would not slip in.
A friend of mine told me to throw the studs into the freezer over night so they shrink just a little bit which would be enough. I´ll try that one
Are there any other ideas in case that doesn´t work out ?
I´ve seen videos where people use a nut and the compressor screwdriver but wouldn´t
that screw up the thread again ?


I used a balljoint press (c clamp). Put the open end over the lug stud and the used the ram on the back side to press it home


The Sheriff
 
Last edited:
I used a hammer to get them started, then put a few washers on the stud and use the lugnut to drive them home. Good Luck
 
Thanks guys I´ll try the freezing thing mostly because I´m curios if my freezer which is around 5°F will shrink the steel studs. .
I´ll use my balljoint remover together with compressor screwdirver and a smaller steelplate to force it in precisely even.
I´ll report if that works
 
I´ve to change the wheel studs at the front passenger side as two of them have a thread
that´s toast. Removing is easy, I use a balljoint remover to force them out.. piece of cake.
But forcing the new ones in didn´t work out yesterday. I tried the balljoint remover
the other way around but it would not slip in.
A friend of mine told me to throw the studs into the freezer over night so they shrink just a little bit which would be enough. I´ll try that one
Are there any other ideas in case that doesn´t work out ?
I´ve seen videos where people use a nut and the compressor screwdriver but wouldn´t
that screw up the thread again ?


Drum brakes or disks?
 
the video of that installer makes it look very easy. I´ll be cheap on this one and try
to stack some washers first. Should do the job as well
 
So put the studs in the freezer over night and picked up @C Body Bob s idea. I agree with @stubs300 you don't need to spend 20 bucks on the tool. I used a 32mm nut and a wrench with a pipe to increase the lever... Piece of cake, took me 10 minutes to force all 5 into position. Thanks guys for the input you helped me a lot even when this is basic stuff.
@cbarge is right, the nut I used is toast afterwards but that's fine.

IMG_20200713_160642.jpg
 
So simple it's complicated! Some people over think things and make it complicated! Glad it worked out.
 
Yea I guess doing them on the vehicle like that can be problematic, I've just pulled the fronts whether disc's or drums, and laid the hub on the opened vice and whacked them out with a healthy ball peen hammer. When whacking in the new ones make sure you line up where the previous spline grooves are from the old ones that came out, if you don't you will be fighting them and eventually enlarge the hole so that no stud will grip (that's why you see some welded on the backside). A semi-floating axle on the vehicle would require a press if you don't want to remove the axle and again line the splines with the old by look and feel.
A full floater if they flucked up a stud it is best to pull the axles and hubs anyways to replace the studs and to see if anything else is flucked up. They pop out with the right whack, now a 50 year old sitting in the field up to the rockers in mud car find may be stuck but then 'Heat is your friend'.
 
I've always used an old lug nut with washer start the nut on backwards put the impact to it when installed remove the old and on with the new
 
Back
Top