After the high beams dim, feel the foot dimmer switch plunger to see if it is HOTter than it used to be. IF the lights are going away due to a high-resistance item, that item should be hot from the resistance in it.
Are the "halos" operating as daytime running lights? If so, where are they getting their power?
BE SURE to aim your new lights to where they shine just below horizontal on a flat stretch of parking lot, bridge railing, or other completely horizontal surface you can see the main beam on at night. This is critical for best lighting performance. Also see where the beam strikes the rear of cars as you drive up on them on the street at night. Keep the low beams low enough to stay out of their mirrors, too . . . for vehicles with a similar ride height as yours is.
Also, aim the lateral adjustment such that the very left fringe edge of the lh low beam light pattern just touches the lane divider line, which will mean it is aimed slightly to the right rather than just completely straight ahead. Then aim the rh low beam a bit more to the right, so it will find the rh edge of the road and street signs. These things can take a bit of time to do at night on low-traffic roads, but will be good when done.
ONE other rhing is that you might like sitting BEHIND those bright white lights, BUT even with them aimed correctly, a thing like "high contrast light situation" can happen with oncoming drivers. That bright white light you're sitting behind, against a mostly black background, can cause older, oncoming drivers to temporarily have vision issues. By observation, much worse than the old "look to the right side of the road" advice when oncoming drivers did not dim their headlights as their vehicle approaches your vehicle. NOTE: these aiming suggestions are for countries where people drive on the RIGHT HAND side of the road, as in the USA.
There are several YouTube videos on headlight aiming. Probably something on Daniel Stern Lighting's website, too. Where you might also find some information on running the headlights via the factory harness and relays rather than using the existing factory harness wired direct.
With that much voltage loss, something's got to be getting really hot, I suspect. Hope you find the culprit soon!!
I had some friends, back in the later 1970s, who had installed Cibie E-code H4 7" round headlights in their '77 Camaros. I was amazed at the difference in light pattern there was between them and the USA beam pattern. It took some getting used to, but I liked it and have had several sets of (illegal, non-sealed beam) E-code Cibie and SEV-Marchal lights in the Camaro since then. I finally aimed them only on low beam, as that was usually what I needed, and let the high beams do their thing, if needed.
Prior to that, I had researched state-spec headlight aiming on the '66 Newport. I liked to drive at night and found the "aimed" height to not be very good. PLUS how the aiming machine was set-up could vary, too! I also played around with that on my Camaro, too, pre-E-Code lights.
Just some thoughts, experiences, and observations,
CBODY67
