1967 Plymouth Fury III 318

Restoration

  1. 68PK21 440.6bbl

    68PK21 440.6bbl Old Man with a Hat

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    Your freeze plug problem is most likely due to who installed them 'Dry'. I used the Permatex red super tacky gasket adhesive, the kind that comes in a small can with a brush (or little sponge) attached to the cap, or the brown 3M glue adhesive that is super duper strong and gasoline impervious. Don't be shy with the sealant on the freeze plug and the block, goop them up good and if your worried about the excess outside the plug, just trim it off when it fully dries.

    (edit) your freeze plugs could be punched it just a tad further, just so you can see about a 1/16th of a inch of the block bore hole. Look at close up of original pictures of a factory installed block and you can see the plug is just a little further in. I'll see if I have any old pictures of what I mean.

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    Last edited: Apr 5, 2021
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  2. 68PK21 440.6bbl

    68PK21 440.6bbl Old Man with a Hat

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    I really can't quite see a oil drip other than the lower part of the oil pan gasket seal. Now if this is a leak from the 80psi oil prime as I take it you haven't had the engine fully up and running? Rear main seal on these old engines can be problematic. I remember the old original seal that were white rope type material the tip/instructions were to soak the halves in engine oil before installation. This is also a aid when you replace the seal with the engine in car as it helps the rope slide into the channel. The later black colored (graphite?) and even rubber half type seals don't need any soak just a pre-lube with oil or grease. Also gooping the corners and round oil pan rubber gasket with sealer is important (your choice) ie not dry assembly. Both front & rear.

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  3. 68PK21 440.6bbl

    68PK21 440.6bbl Old Man with a Hat

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    "replaced the oil pump drive gear in the same orientation as it was prior to removal" Was this engine ever run up as in was the cam broken in?
    Maybe you are 1 tooth off right from the git-go on the gear, refer to the Factory Service Manual it is your friend and best resource.

    Your gear in proper orientation to FSM.

    318.POST.TG.jpg

    Factory Service Manual for 318/340 block:

    318.FSM.TG.jpg

    Also your picture shows a awful lot of 'Carbon Crud' on the top of the drive gear IMO. It should be not shiny but of a lighter color as in bare metal. How well did your re-builder clean this old engine? Also I just now realized this is not the original 1967 engine but some 'Magnum' engine? So all that I posted from the FSM for 67/68 maybe moot.

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  4. Furyus67

    Furyus67 Active Member

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    Update: Second Attempt

    I do believe I had my timing 180 degrees off. I took the #1 spark plug out and put my thumb over the hole and felt it blowing out. When I reached TDC on that stroke the rotor was pointed backwards. So I pulled up the distributor and spun the rotor around.

    I looked at a picture of the firing order and how each wire should be run to the plugs. Checked out.

    This time when cranking, it seemed like every time I would let off the key, it would burp. Like it wanted to start when I would let off the key.

    I guess I'll give a run down of everything:
    5.2 magnum with stock rebuild.
    Original distributor with pertronix
    Flame thrower coil
    MSD StreetFire Ignition Wires
    Autolite Cooper Spark Plug 3924
    I bypassed my ballast resistor with a straight thru wire.

    I don't know what else might help diagnose.

    Here are two videos:


     
  5. Kram Edyorloh

    Kram Edyorloh Member

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    Mate, has this car still got a points distributor or electronic?
     
  6. Furyus67

    Furyus67 Active Member

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    Electronic.
    Pertronix.
     
  7. Kram Edyorloh

    Kram Edyorloh Member

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    If you have the following in order....and I dont know this being 7000miles away...
    Fuel at the carb
    Crank set at TDC on the crank balancer.... both valves shut on #1 cyl
    Rotor arm in line with #1 contact on the dist cap and all plug leads correctly sequenced (forget the *8 BTDC crap for the moment, that comes later)

    If that lot is in order, run a wire straight from the POS side of the coil to the POS Batt terminal, bolt in on the coil end but get someone to touch it on the POS Batt terminal, try start it, IF it runs, take the wire off the batt and see if it keeps running...let me know what happens...if anything. Good luck.
    Its only a suggestion mate but I think i may be seeing something here.
     
  8. Furyus67

    Furyus67 Active Member

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    I'll try it. Are you thinking maybe I'm not getting a full 12v to the coil? I've heard if you aren't getting a full 12 with a pertronix it won't start.