Julesva5
Member
The prior owner put in Temp and Pressure gauges - helpful upgrade!
1968 Chrysler Town and Country
- Thread starter Julesva5
- Start date
Julesva5
Member
Cool so that 69 shroud worked in the 67? That's the prior owner - not sure but they were cool mats!
67_300_Convertible
Member
It did work. The bracket kit Dante's references includes cage nuts for the sides of the radiator, which is another saga unto itself.
The brackets bolt into these cage nuts and provide a mounting surface for the '69 shroud. I have not installed the shroud yet because now I am leaning toward an electric fan to remove the drag of the mechanical fan from the engine.
How to Install Fan Shroud Bracket Cage Nuts
I have a 1967 300 (440, no A/C, original 22" radiator) that was not factory-equipped with a fan shroud. I bought a shroud and bracket kit from Dante's: https://dantesparts.com/i-30499084-mopar-22-fan-shroud-1969-b-c-body.html?ref=category:1389295 My question is, how do I install the cage nuts...
www.forcbodiesonly.com
The brackets bolt into these cage nuts and provide a mounting surface for the '69 shroud. I have not installed the shroud yet because now I am leaning toward an electric fan to remove the drag of the mechanical fan from the engine.
rags
Senior Member
that's a damn good fan you have though. nice engine bay as well.
My 65 NYer (413) was overheating after I put aftermarket AC in it. Cbarge recommended the Engineered Cooling Products 2-core aluminum radiator, which I bought for about $350 if I recall. I have not had any issues since then, even with the AC on and stop/go traffic in steamy Tampa!
Engineered Cooling Products has some interesting opinions about radiator design etc. They don't believe that 3-core rads work as well as their 2-core design. Check them out online.
Engineered Cooling Products has some interesting opinions about radiator design etc. They don't believe that 3-core rads work as well as their 2-core design. Check them out online.
Luke Pokrajac
Active Member
Julesva5
Member
thanks!
Luke Pokrajac
Active Member
You're welcome!
Were you already based in IL at the time? Ambient weather and humidity can make a big difference. The OP is based in VA and @saforwardlook 's experience in CA (and direct experience with Chrysler engineering) suggests that cooling was in fact borderline on Mopars.
Regardless, I think your bet is on target
rea @ayilar recalls my experience correctly. In hot weather testing at the proving grounds where I had a 4 month job stint, it was more than clear that Chrysler was indeed trying very hard to save cost and its radiators were marginal in hot weather even when they were new.
GM had the best cooling with cross-flow radiators that offered the maximum cooling in heavy traffic conditions with the a/c on (total maximum frontal surface area was essential to such cooling and GM always made sure customers were comfortable in hot weather no matter what the temperatures/humidity) and their maximum a/c fan speeds were twice what Chrysler's were. I had a couple 1970 - 1971 Chryslers with the 440 standard engines in test mule cars ar the proving grounds and the a/c couldn't do the job even when brand new. Out on the oval road track though, they were always acceptable, but never in traffic.
GM had the best cooling with cross-flow radiators that offered the maximum cooling in heavy traffic conditions with the a/c on (total maximum frontal surface area was essential to such cooling and GM always made sure customers were comfortable in hot weather no matter what the temperatures/humidity) and their maximum a/c fan speeds were twice what Chrysler's were. I had a couple 1970 - 1971 Chryslers with the 440 standard engines in test mule cars ar the proving grounds and the a/c couldn't do the job even when brand new. Out on the oval road track though, they were always acceptable, but never in traffic.
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70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Don't trust aftermarket gauges 100% get a infrared/laser heat gun. Verify that your guages are at least ballpark. Especially the temp gauge. Electric can be affected by car voltage, how good the ground is, and of course gauge quality. Mechanical can be affected by the capillary line running by hot stuff, exhaust, valve cover/along intake with heat crossovers. When air is moving though the engine compartment at road speed not bad, sitting still idling it all gets hot. The alcohol in those boils at fairly low temp which is what makes the pressure gauge read temperature. Of course there is the ever present off shore error in today's products.
Other than that I would enrichen the idle circuit and check the timing, even advance the timing a couple of degrees. Big blocks rarely have the keyway cut right and are always retarded a bit.
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