1968 Newport 4dr Hardtop restore (NL)

Member's Projects & Restorations

  1. Metalmarty

    Metalmarty Member

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    Hope someone can answers the previous questions.

    Extra question
    The @PST kit has foam rings included with the idler arm. One thick ring with a big sized hole. I think that is supposed to go on the shaft on the lower right on the picture.

    There are also 2 thinner foam rings with a smaller hole. Are these for the balljoint (left) side?

    And are the metal washers supposed to go on the inner or outer side of the bracket?
    IMG_20200918_172639.jpg
     
  2. Unix

    Unix Member

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    You could probably send the complete engine to Poland to the mechanic which rebuilt my engine (very skilled working on US cars), i bet you'd save a couple of grand when compared to prices in NL... Not sure on the shipping to Poland, but you can always jump in your daily car and make a road trip, it's not that far.... A day trip there and back.
    Good luck on the build, looks good.
     
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  3. bigmoparjeff

    bigmoparjeff Senior Member

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    If you can remember, send me a reminder next year at the beginning of July to keep an eye out for one at Carlisle.

    Jeff
     
  4. bigmoparjeff

    bigmoparjeff Senior Member

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    No, definitely not normal. Could have been from a real bad pot hole or curb hit, or possibly from a tow truck driver improperly tying down the car. You will need to straighten that or replace it.

    Jeff
     
  5. bigmoparjeff

    bigmoparjeff Senior Member

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    I believe that's a Bendix booster. I'm pretty sure they were original equipment in 1968. Chrysler used a few different suppliers for boosters, and I think a car coming down the assembly line got whatever they happened to be using that day.

    Yours does appear to be a reman that's fairly recent.

    Jeff
     
  6. bigmoparjeff

    bigmoparjeff Senior Member

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    Yes, and Yes.

    Jeff
     
  7. bigmoparjeff

    bigmoparjeff Senior Member

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    I don't think it's a big deal. I would just install the seals wherever they fit best.

    Jeff
     
  8. Metalmarty

    Metalmarty Member

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    Thanks for the tip.
    I will look into that :)

    I will try to remember!
    Thank you for this and thanks for all the answers on my questions :)


    (Small) update time!
    I haven't gotten around to do much last 2 weeks because other things were in the way but I'm finally making some progress again.

    I pulled apart my steering gear output shaft.
    I was planning on replacing the 2 needle bearings on the output shaft, but it turns out that I have a different steering gear that has plain bearings...
    Someone replaced the box with a cardone "repaint" unit unfortunately. (PN 3643311)
    I ended up replacing the output seal, some oring and setting the lash before reassembling it.
    I was planning on replacing the reaction springs in the steering gear but I decided not too after finding that it was a different cardone unit...

    I will use this for the time being since I don't have the finances to buy a $1100USD FirmFeel unit at the moment.
    A5neHj7PEsCUyNien_Rd9kZ9ePiWPuypeM3OdSAmhe1hfe_6xyRsOHPlBzZ9Kk8_Ry98m96Q=w800-h450-no?authuser=0.jpg

    img_20200925_161214-jpg.jpg


    My federal power steering pump had some small leaks so I decided to tackle that too.
    Disassembled the pump, it was in pretty good condition apart from 2 hard orings.
    Cleaned everything, replaced the orings, shaft seal and thrust washer gasket.
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    I took apart the pressure relief valve to lower the pump pressure since the power steering is extremely overpowered.
    The pressure relief valve has a spring and the preload is set with shims to get to a set pressure.
    Thinner shims = higher pressure and more assist.
    Thicker shims = lower pressure and less assist
    The shimstack was 0.051"
    I changed the shimstack to 0.105" (Some say you can go up to 0.125" but you end up having almost no thread left to screw it back together, didn't trust that)
    It turns out that M10 banjo bolt washers are the perfect size!
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    I received my ball joint socket in the mail and removed them.
    But wow, they were tight in there!
    We had do to it with 2 persons, 1 using a big breaker bar get it loose and the other pushing the car to prevent it dropping off the jackstands...
    I unbolted the upper control arms and the front stub frame is officially a bare unit.
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    I'm taking the upper and lower control arms home to press out the old (very very) worn bushings and replace them with the bushings I got in the PST kit.
    All balljoints will be replaced with PST units too, they were worn beyond believe, flopping around like fish on land...


    Question:
    My torsion bar rubber boots are torn, where can I buy cheap decent ones?
    I saw some boots going for 50USD a pair which is a bit steep in my opinion for some simple boots...
     
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  9. Metalmarty

    Metalmarty Member

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    Didn't have to much progress past month, but I finally got around to get something done!

    I've been working on the front suspension parts.
    Cleaning everything up, replacing all bushings, rubbers etc.
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    Was about time that the bushings were replaced, I guess the original bushings were still in it.
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    Getting these bushings out was a challenge. But nothing a bit of welding and a press can't handle.
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    Everthing clean with some of the bushings already installed.
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    I've decided to box the lower control arms for a bit of reinforcement.
    Thick steel place is used, it's formed to have the same shape as the lower control arm.
    The hole is for the torsion bar spring adjustment bolt.
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    Metal fabrication isn't my strong suit yet. But I'm really happy with how it turned out.
    One done
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    Both done, painted with the new bushings pressed into place.
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    Other suspension parts ready for assembly.
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  10. Metalmarty

    Metalmarty Member

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    Also. I got a new motivational boost.
    I've found another engine to use instead of the worn out 383!
    It came complete with transmission and accesories.
    Price was great and seems to be in good condition.

    It's a Chrysler BB 400 from a 1977 Newport.
    Originally a lean burn engine, but cold cranking compression tests have shown 135-150PSI on all holes!
    What is the normal cold cranking compression on one of these low compression engines?
    I expected it to be much lower...
    It also has 55psi oil pressure right away.

    We've looked into the bores with a camera and no signs of ring ridges or bore wear, which is great.

    I'm planning on taking the lean burn stuff off and add the following:
    - Edelbrock DP4B intake and Edelbrock 1406 (600cfm) carb
    - Rick Ehrenberg electronic ignition system
    - Headman 78070 headers
    - Chrysler 10 3/4" HP stall convertor (~2300rpm stall)

    I'm also thinking of swapping the camshaft.
    My first thoughts are to get a howards cams rattler camshaft 728001-09.
    227/235 duration @.050, .480/.488 lift, 1800-5600 rpm range.
    Don't know if this is too big?

    What would you suggest?

    What is the max lift you can get away with on 452 heads?
    Should 0.480/0.488 be possible?

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    Last edited: Nov 6, 2020
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  11. Metalmarty

    Metalmarty Member

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    Progress!

    Cleaned the rest of the frame.
    Installed the steering gear, steering arm, idler arm, center link. All the flip flop is gone, tight as new!
    IMG_20201107_165736.jpg

    Installed upper control arms and upper ball joints. Jeesh, those upper ball joints are tight! Camber bolts are not fully tight yet. That will happen when the car is back on it's wheels again :)
    IMG_20201107_165801.jpg
     
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  12. Metalmarty

    Metalmarty Member

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    Busy life! I'm working 4 days a week for an employer and I'm trying to start my own company in the time I have left. I just got a big (for me) development contract which needs a lot of work.

    I'm still working and preparing stuff for the Newport in the meantime!

    New stuff came in!
    I was thinking about what to do with the shocks. Current brand X shocks aren't leaking. But they are very soft. I took a look around here and it seems that KYB makes the shocks that fit my purpose perfectly. I was surprised by hoe cheap they are!

    Received them this week. Looks good and feels waaay better than my current shocks.

    IMG_20201115_010237.jpg


    More stuff on it's way!
    Supposed to come in this Friday. Small pallet with stuff from the US that came in a container. Excited!
     
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  13. Metalmarty

    Metalmarty Member

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    Time flies!
    Time for a new update...

    Got a big batch of stuff!
    Rebuild Chrysler HP (2300rpm) converter.
    Gaskets and orings for my TF727 BB transmission.
    Both thanks to Pat Blais.

    Rick Ehrenberg helped me getting a disc brake kit together including new master cylinder.
    I'm replacing my front drums to 11.75" vented rotors. All new stuff!

    Also got a working dash dimmer switch, connector/terminal kit to replace my bulkhead connector and some other stuff.

    eAN-3l1abdroDr-7MxvqtWXJFuDFY18a722mQrfHo35OU2na0lfLgatdGwtRCEc7dEsWF1Xf=w450-h800-no?authuser=0.jpg

    I continued reassembly of my front suspension.
    All new bushings, ball joints, shocks.
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    Installed the scarebird brackets.
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    Installed new Disc/Drum master. Test fitted the calipers.
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    Installing the bearings in the discs. It's crazy tight in there...
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    Mounted the discs and calipers. Fits perfectly.
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    Made some brackets for the brake hoses.
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    Also installed the torsion bars with new boots.
    The boots were very hard to get on.
    Added some not-too-tight tiewraps, just to be sure.
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    I've used universal Kramp brand ball joint boots since decent C-Body boots were hard to come by over here. Kramp PN is SHP916KR.
    You have to put them in hot water before using them, and they are hard to get over the frame ridge.
    But they fit perfectly.
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    This concludes most of the front suspension work.
    I still have to tighten most of the nuts when the car is back on the ground again.
    And the front anti roll bar has to go back on.

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  14. live4theking

    live4theking Old Man with a Hat

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    Looking good.
     
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  15. Metalmarty

    Metalmarty Member

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    Update time!

    I've spent a couple days working on my '69 TF727 BB transmission.
    Replaced all seals and o-rings, cleaned everything, checked condition of the parts.
    I've also installed Part Throttle Kickdown from a later 727 transmission.
    Thanks to Pat Blais for all the parts and information.

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    Transmission is ready for install together with a Chrysler 10 3/4" HP converter!
    Hopefully without any leaks...
    I just need another speedo gear.

    Diff is out too.
    I'm waiting for my parts from doctordiff.
    New diff bearings, wheel bearings and 3.23 gears to replace the 2.76s!
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    I'm cleaning the engine in the meantime.
    Degreasing, removing as much rust as possible.
    Will be painted in turquoise again.
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    I also got a Edelbrock DP4B intake.
    It will be glass bead blasted to get it back to new.
    Will pair nicely with engine when it has a new coat of paint.
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    Waiting for parts! :popcorn:

    Incoming, hopefully mid February:
    - Hedman Shorty hedders 78070
    - Doctordiff wheel and diff bearings together with 3.23 gears
    - Lots of parts to reassemble the engine (mounts, gaskets, sensors, B&M external balanced flexplate, etc)
    - All new brake parts for the rear axle (drums, shoes, springs, wheel cylinders etc)
     
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  16. NY69

    NY69 Member

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    Goed bezig kerel :)
     
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  17. cbarge

    cbarge World Famous Barge in a Budget FCBO Gold Member

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    Awesome!!
    The Part throttle upgrade on the trans is a very good idea.
     
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  18. WissaMan

    WissaMan Active Member FCBO Gold Member

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    I saw your post in my 68 Newport thread and just read through yours and subscribed :thumbsup:
     
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