1968 Newport 4dr Hardtop restore (NL)

Member's Projects & Restorations

  1. Metalmarty

    Metalmarty Member

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    Hope someone can answers the previous questions.

    Extra question
    The @PST kit has foam rings included with the idler arm. One thick ring with a big sized hole. I think that is supposed to go on the shaft on the lower right on the picture.

    There are also 2 thinner foam rings with a smaller hole. Are these for the balljoint (left) side?

    And are the metal washers supposed to go on the inner or outer side of the bracket?
    IMG_20200918_172639.jpg
     
  2. Unix

    Unix Member

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    You could probably send the complete engine to Poland to the mechanic which rebuilt my engine (very skilled working on US cars), i bet you'd save a couple of grand when compared to prices in NL... Not sure on the shipping to Poland, but you can always jump in your daily car and make a road trip, it's not that far.... A day trip there and back.
    Good luck on the build, looks good.
     
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  3. bigmoparjeff

    bigmoparjeff Senior Member

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    If you can remember, send me a reminder next year at the beginning of July to keep an eye out for one at Carlisle.

    Jeff
     
  4. bigmoparjeff

    bigmoparjeff Senior Member

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    No, definitely not normal. Could have been from a real bad pot hole or curb hit, or possibly from a tow truck driver improperly tying down the car. You will need to straighten that or replace it.

    Jeff
     
  5. bigmoparjeff

    bigmoparjeff Senior Member

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    I believe that's a Bendix booster. I'm pretty sure they were original equipment in 1968. Chrysler used a few different suppliers for boosters, and I think a car coming down the assembly line got whatever they happened to be using that day.

    Yours does appear to be a reman that's fairly recent.

    Jeff
     
  6. bigmoparjeff

    bigmoparjeff Senior Member

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    Yes, and Yes.

    Jeff
     
  7. bigmoparjeff

    bigmoparjeff Senior Member

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    I don't think it's a big deal. I would just install the seals wherever they fit best.

    Jeff
     
  8. Metalmarty

    Metalmarty Member

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    Thanks for the tip.
    I will look into that :)

    I will try to remember!
    Thank you for this and thanks for all the answers on my questions :)


    (Small) update time!
    I haven't gotten around to do much last 2 weeks because other things were in the way but I'm finally making some progress again.

    I pulled apart my steering gear output shaft.
    I was planning on replacing the 2 needle bearings on the output shaft, but it turns out that I have a different steering gear that has plain bearings...
    Someone replaced the box with a cardone "repaint" unit unfortunately. (PN 3643311)
    I ended up replacing the output seal, some oring and setting the lash before reassembling it.
    I was planning on replacing the reaction springs in the steering gear but I decided not too after finding that it was a different cardone unit...

    I will use this for the time being since I don't have the finances to buy a $1100USD FirmFeel unit at the moment.
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    img_20200925_161214-jpg.jpg


    My federal power steering pump had some small leaks so I decided to tackle that too.
    Disassembled the pump, it was in pretty good condition apart from 2 hard orings.
    Cleaned everything, replaced the orings, shaft seal and thrust washer gasket.
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    I took apart the pressure relief valve to lower the pump pressure since the power steering is extremely overpowered.
    The pressure relief valve has a spring and the preload is set with shims to get to a set pressure.
    Thinner shims = higher pressure and more assist.
    Thicker shims = lower pressure and less assist
    The shimstack was 0.051"
    I changed the shimstack to 0.105" (Some say you can go up to 0.125" but you end up having almost no thread left to screw it back together, didn't trust that)
    It turns out that M10 banjo bolt washers are the perfect size!
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    I received my ball joint socket in the mail and removed them.
    But wow, they were tight in there!
    We had do to it with 2 persons, 1 using a big breaker bar get it loose and the other pushing the car to prevent it dropping off the jackstands...
    I unbolted the upper control arms and the front stub frame is officially a bare unit.
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    I'm taking the upper and lower control arms home to press out the old (very very) worn bushings and replace them with the bushings I got in the PST kit.
    All balljoints will be replaced with PST units too, they were worn beyond believe, flopping around like fish on land...


    Question:
    My torsion bar rubber boots are torn, where can I buy cheap decent ones?
    I saw some boots going for 50USD a pair which is a bit steep in my opinion for some simple boots...
     
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