1968 Newport 4dr Hardtop restore (NL)

Metalmarty

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Hope someone can answers the previous questions.

Extra question
The @PST kit has foam rings included with the idler arm. One thick ring with a big sized hole. I think that is supposed to go on the shaft on the lower right on the picture.

There are also 2 thinner foam rings with a smaller hole. Are these for the balljoint (left) side?

And are the metal washers supposed to go on the inner or outer side of the bracket?
IMG_20200918_172639.jpg
 

Unix

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You could probably send the complete engine to Poland to the mechanic which rebuilt my engine (very skilled working on US cars), i bet you'd save a couple of grand when compared to prices in NL... Not sure on the shipping to Poland, but you can always jump in your daily car and make a road trip, it's not that far.... A day trip there and back.
Good luck on the build, looks good.
 

bigmoparjeff

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My driver side strut rod is a bit crooked, is that normal after 50 years?
How could this have happened? :confused:

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No, definitely not normal. Could have been from a real bad pot hole or curb hit, or possibly from a tow truck driver improperly tying down the car. You will need to straighten that or replace it.

Jeff
 

bigmoparjeff

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One more question.
My brake booster doesn't seem to be the original one but I'm not sure (Factory power drum car).
Can anyone identify this brake booster?

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I believe that's a Bendix booster. I'm pretty sure they were original equipment in 1968. Chrysler used a few different suppliers for boosters, and I think a car coming down the assembly line got whatever they happened to be using that day.

Yours does appear to be a reman that's fairly recent.

Jeff
 

bigmoparjeff

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Hope someone can answers the previous questions.

Extra question
The @PST kit has foam rings included with the idler arm. One thick ring with a big sized hole. I think that is supposed to go on the shaft on the lower right on the picture.

There are also 2 thinner foam rings with a smaller hole. Are these for the balljoint (left) side?

And are the metal washers supposed to go on the inner or outer side of the bracket?
View attachment 404060

I don't think it's a big deal. I would just install the seals wherever they fit best.

Jeff
 

Metalmarty

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You could probably send the complete engine to Poland to the mechanic which rebuilt my engine (very skilled working on US cars), i bet you'd save a couple of grand when compared to prices in NL... Not sure on the shipping to Poland, but you can always jump in your daily car and make a road trip, it's not that far.... A day trip there and back.
Good luck on the build, looks good.

Thanks for the tip.
I will look into that :)

If you can remember, send me a reminder next year at the beginning of July to keep an eye out for one at Carlisle.
Jeff

I will try to remember!
Thank you for this and thanks for all the answers on my questions :)


(Small) update time!
I haven't gotten around to do much last 2 weeks because other things were in the way but I'm finally making some progress again.

I pulled apart my steering gear output shaft.
I was planning on replacing the 2 needle bearings on the output shaft, but it turns out that I have a different steering gear that has plain bearings...
Someone replaced the box with a cardone "repaint" unit unfortunately. (PN 3643311)
I ended up replacing the output seal, some oring and setting the lash before reassembling it.
I was planning on replacing the reaction springs in the steering gear but I decided not too after finding that it was a different cardone unit...

I will use this for the time being since I don't have the finances to buy a $1100USD FirmFeel unit at the moment.
A5neHj7PEsCUyNien_Rd9kZ9ePiWPuypeM3OdSAmhe1hfe_6xyRsOHPlBzZ9Kk8_Ry98m96Q=w800-h450-no?authuser=0.jpg


img_20200925_161214-jpg.jpg



My federal power steering pump had some small leaks so I decided to tackle that too.
Disassembled the pump, it was in pretty good condition apart from 2 hard orings.
Cleaned everything, replaced the orings, shaft seal and thrust washer gasket.
Enr3z8zCIEM5yVkRyX5V4XPnAv0orrmrl-_omkUlkiio9GTuK2RM_L-IEe6Aicc6t55pSoBg=w800-h450-no?authuser=0.jpg


I took apart the pressure relief valve to lower the pump pressure since the power steering is extremely overpowered.
The pressure relief valve has a spring and the preload is set with shims to get to a set pressure.
Thinner shims = higher pressure and more assist.
Thicker shims = lower pressure and less assist
The shimstack was 0.051"
I changed the shimstack to 0.105" (Some say you can go up to 0.125" but you end up having almost no thread left to screw it back together, didn't trust that)
It turns out that M10 banjo bolt washers are the perfect size!
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I received my ball joint socket in the mail and removed them.
But wow, they were tight in there!
We had do to it with 2 persons, 1 using a big breaker bar get it loose and the other pushing the car to prevent it dropping off the jackstands...
I unbolted the upper control arms and the front stub frame is officially a bare unit.
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I'm taking the upper and lower control arms home to press out the old (very very) worn bushings and replace them with the bushings I got in the PST kit.
All balljoints will be replaced with PST units too, they were worn beyond believe, flopping around like fish on land...


Question:
My torsion bar rubber boots are torn, where can I buy cheap decent ones?
I saw some boots going for 50USD a pair which is a bit steep in my opinion for some simple boots...
 

Metalmarty

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Didn't have to much progress past month, but I finally got around to get something done!

I've been working on the front suspension parts.
Cleaning everything up, replacing all bushings, rubbers etc.
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Was about time that the bushings were replaced, I guess the original bushings were still in it.
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Getting these bushings out was a challenge. But nothing a bit of welding and a press can't handle.
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Everthing clean with some of the bushings already installed.
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I've decided to box the lower control arms for a bit of reinforcement.
Thick steel place is used, it's formed to have the same shape as the lower control arm.
The hole is for the torsion bar spring adjustment bolt.
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Metal fabrication isn't my strong suit yet. But I'm really happy with how it turned out.
One done
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Both done, painted with the new bushings pressed into place.
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Other suspension parts ready for assembly.
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Metalmarty

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Also. I got a new motivational boost.
I've found another engine to use instead of the worn out 383!
It came complete with transmission and accesories.
Price was great and seems to be in good condition.

It's a Chrysler BB 400 from a 1977 Newport.
Originally a lean burn engine, but cold cranking compression tests have shown 135-150PSI on all holes!
What is the normal cold cranking compression on one of these low compression engines?
I expected it to be much lower...
It also has 55psi oil pressure right away.

We've looked into the bores with a camera and no signs of ring ridges or bore wear, which is great.

I'm planning on taking the lean burn stuff off and add the following:
- Edelbrock DP4B intake and Edelbrock 1406 (600cfm) carb
- Rick Ehrenberg electronic ignition system
- Headman 78070 headers
- Chrysler 10 3/4" HP stall convertor (~2300rpm stall)

I'm also thinking of swapping the camshaft.
My first thoughts are to get a howards cams rattler camshaft 728001-09.
227/235 duration @.050, .480/.488 lift, 1800-5600 rpm range.
Don't know if this is too big?

What would you suggest?

What is the max lift you can get away with on 452 heads?
Should 0.480/0.488 be possible?

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Metalmarty

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Progress!

Cleaned the rest of the frame.
Installed the steering gear, steering arm, idler arm, center link. All the flip flop is gone, tight as new!
IMG_20201107_165736.jpg


Installed upper control arms and upper ball joints. Jeesh, those upper ball joints are tight! Camber bolts are not fully tight yet. That will happen when the car is back on it's wheels again :)
IMG_20201107_165801.jpg
 

Metalmarty

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Busy life! I'm working 4 days a week for an employer and I'm trying to start my own company in the time I have left. I just got a big (for me) development contract which needs a lot of work.

I'm still working and preparing stuff for the Newport in the meantime!

New stuff came in!
I was thinking about what to do with the shocks. Current brand X shocks aren't leaking. But they are very soft. I took a look around here and it seems that KYB makes the shocks that fit my purpose perfectly. I was surprised by hoe cheap they are!

Received them this week. Looks good and feels waaay better than my current shocks.

IMG_20201115_010237.jpg



More stuff on it's way!
Supposed to come in this Friday. Small pallet with stuff from the US that came in a container. Excited!
 

Metalmarty

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Time flies!
Time for a new update...

Got a big batch of stuff!
Rebuild Chrysler HP (2300rpm) converter.
Gaskets and orings for my TF727 BB transmission.
Both thanks to Pat Blais.

Rick Ehrenberg helped me getting a disc brake kit together including new master cylinder.
I'm replacing my front drums to 11.75" vented rotors. All new stuff!

Also got a working dash dimmer switch, connector/terminal kit to replace my bulkhead connector and some other stuff.

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I continued reassembly of my front suspension.
All new bushings, ball joints, shocks.
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Installed the scarebird brackets.
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Installed new Disc/Drum master. Test fitted the calipers.
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Installing the bearings in the discs. It's crazy tight in there...
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Mounted the discs and calipers. Fits perfectly.
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Made some brackets for the brake hoses.
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Also installed the torsion bars with new boots.
The boots were very hard to get on.
Added some not-too-tight tiewraps, just to be sure.
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I've used universal Kramp brand ball joint boots since decent C-Body boots were hard to come by over here. Kramp PN is SHP916KR.
You have to put them in hot water before using them, and they are hard to get over the frame ridge.
But they fit perfectly.
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This concludes most of the front suspension work.
I still have to tighten most of the nuts when the car is back on the ground again.
And the front anti roll bar has to go back on.

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Metalmarty

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Update time!

I've spent a couple days working on my '69 TF727 BB transmission.
Replaced all seals and o-rings, cleaned everything, checked condition of the parts.
I've also installed Part Throttle Kickdown from a later 727 transmission.
Thanks to Pat Blais for all the parts and information.

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Transmission is ready for install together with a Chrysler 10 3/4" HP converter!
Hopefully without any leaks...
I just need another speedo gear.

Diff is out too.
I'm waiting for my parts from doctordiff.
New diff bearings, wheel bearings and 3.23 gears to replace the 2.76s!
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I'm cleaning the engine in the meantime.
Degreasing, removing as much rust as possible.
Will be painted in turquoise again.
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I also got a Edelbrock DP4B intake.
It will be glass bead blasted to get it back to new.
Will pair nicely with engine when it has a new coat of paint.
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Waiting for parts! :popcorn:

Incoming, hopefully mid February:
- Hedman Shorty hedders 78070
- Doctordiff wheel and diff bearings together with 3.23 gears
- Lots of parts to reassemble the engine (mounts, gaskets, sensors, B&M external balanced flexplate, etc)
- All new brake parts for the rear axle (drums, shoes, springs, wheel cylinders etc)
 

Metalmarty

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Time flies! Progress doesn't.
Corona makes it hard to get parts, we are in lockdown since December, so no stores etc are open, my parts from the US are delayed and I can't go to my garage in the evening because of curfew.
The project isn't progressing at the rate I'd like to see, but ah well, it's hobby.

I did get something done though.

I've prepped a lot of engine parts for paint.
Sanded and cleaned up the valve covers.
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Degreased the water pump and cleaned it up for paint too.
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DP4B intake back from glass bead blasting. Looks like new!
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Couldn't stop myself from fitting my refurbished Edelbrock carbs. Fits nicely together! :)
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I've opened up the 37A alternator because the main bearing was shot.
Disassembled it, cleaned it, painted the pulley, installed new bearings and brushes and reassembled it.
Also looks like new :)
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Repainted the water pump pulley.
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Repainted the harmonic damper. (I've also repainted the A/C, PS and alternator pullies.
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I'm waiting for my US parts to arrive to finish up the engine.
When the engine is back together it will be painted in Chrysler Turquoise! Can't wait!
 

Metalmarty

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Another update!
Wiring this time.

I can't work on engine parts because I'm still waiting for parts.
I've decided to tackle the dashboard wiring for now.
I wanted to get piece of mind wiring wise, so I'm checking everything to make sure it doesn't burn to the ground at some point.

The reason behind this is that pins J and P on the bulkhead connector were melted. Some previous owner bypassed the AMmeter when this happened in a not very nice way. I'm not scared of wiring so I decided to replace the bulkhead connector and check all wiring since I'm busy anyways.

I've pulled most of the dash apart, and after thinking "What did I get myself into" I carried on with comparing the wiring with my FSM. And to my surprise, 95% of the wiring is original and in way better condition than I've expected. Wires are still bendable without breaking and have little to no corrosion.

The only not original parts are :
- Ammeter bypass patch (not done in a neat way)
- Dimmer switch was broken in the back (I have a replacement one) and the connector was cutoff...
- Radio wiring patches, I've cut the non original wiring out and I'm returning it to original according to the FSM.
- Unknown black wire connecting Tan blower switch wire to DBL A/C clutch wire.

The rest is fully original, in good condition and all according to the FSM :thumbsup:


(picture looks worse than it actually is...)
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Repinned bulkhead connector with original wires and patched J and P pins (made sure the copper didn't have corrosion).
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Quiet the difference.
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I'm also refreshing dash panels, switches etc at home.
I've got a lot of spare dash parts thanks to @detmatt and @cbarge, they already came in handy :)

My chrysler came without radio (It had one from factory, but someone pulled it out).
I got my hands on a Chrysler AM/FM!!! thumbwheel radio, with many thanks to @cbarge
Finally got time to test the radio.
I connected ground to the chassis, first connected 12V to the orange wire (light), and yes, the light was working.
After this I connected an 8 Ohm speaker, antenna and connected 12V to the red wire (radio power)
Both AM and FM channels are working! We don't have many AM radio stations over here, but we do have a lot of FM radio.

Really happy this works. Now I have to find new speakers to install in the dash and at the rear seats (my car was optioned with rear speakers and fader switch).
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Shiny.
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The dimmer switch in my dash was broken, so I got my hands on a "cheap" replacement switch from another newport.
It didn't work very well so I cleaned it up and all contacts are working like a charm again (and the 0-15Ohm resistor works fine as well)
Ready to install!
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I also had a spare blower motor switch (3 pins). It wasn't working at all, so I disassembled it, cleaned it and reassembled it.
It's working like a charm again with little to no resistance.
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I also checked the headlight switch, wiper switch, dashboard lights and PCBs.

One thing that isn't working anymore is the clock my chrysler had from factory :(.

Wiring and dash components are going fast for a change.
I think I can finish this up by the end of the month.
And hopefully by then I will have my new parts! :)
 
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