1968 Plymouth fury iii

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Well guys I got my windshield put in this week it’s a used one but I’m so happy with it. Then my mechanical fuel pump went out I like to put a electric on it just need opinions on where to mount it thanks in advance

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Just buy a good quality mechanical fuel pump like one from Carter. There is a lot more to do when installing an electric fuel pump than installing it. You need fuel injection rated rubber hoses, a fuel pressure gauge and regulator and a fuel pump block off plate, or alternatively you would have to gut your existing mechanical fuel pump.
 
Just buy a good quality mechanical fuel pump like one from Carter. There is a lot more to do when installing an electric fuel pump than installing it. You need fuel injection rated rubber hoses, a fuel pressure gauge and regulator and a fuel pump block off plate, or alternatively you would have to gut your existing mechanical fuel pump.
I have a Carter it’s junk mechanical one it quick and carb gets dry after a week of sitting I have a electric one I got through work thought I would try it I love stock appearance but I think it has a lobe wore off cam
 
Isn’t your car equipped with a LA engine? If so, the pump doesn’t work off of a cam lobe but rather an eccentric that bolts to the front of the timing chain.
I’d stick to a mechanical rather than add complexity by adding an electrical pump. See what’s causing it to bleed off.

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The carb being dry after sitting for a few days is inherent with today's ethanol content gas- it's evaporating out of the bowls. Adding a plastic or wood spacer to the carb helps a little but the only real way to fix it is to put an electric pump on it instead.

I personally just live with it as I like the simplicity of the mechanical pump, it's easier to get parts for in an emergency.
 
Get an electric pump that is a flow through. You can use a mechanical pump with it. Wire it to a switch that you can turn on and off. You can use it to fill the carb after the car has been sitting and then shut it off and run on the mechanical pump. Mount it in the back near the tank and you won't see it. It will also keep you from getting stranded if the mechanical pump goes bad.
 
You can get a glass fuse tap kit and grab switched 12v power from a couple different circuits in the fuse box (radio, etc), but I would only use that to trigger a relay, and then the actual pump power would come from the relay direct from the battery. I wouldn't use any of the circuits in the fuse box to power an electric pump directly, a typical electric fuel pump draws 4-5 amps.
 
Just a word of caution: Once you start bastardizing something, it’s yours. You engineered it. You built it. After that whatever problems you may encounter are of your own design and you will have to figure them out on your own. I let my Fury set for a week at a time and have no problems starting it. Does it start like fuel injection? No. It starts like a carbureted car. Pump the **** out of it. Your car has the inherent problems of a carbureted car running on modern gasoline. Deal with it or do a LS swap and be done!
 
I used a Holley red pump, which does need a regulator. I also installed a relay under the dash. Next time I might use a Carter electric. This is a workaround for today's bad gas formula. When I shut the engine off the fuel boils out the float bowls causing the engine to flood while simultaneously leaving the float bowls dry if the car sits over 5 minutes. A phenolic spacer only helped a little.

The electric pump allows the float bowls to be replenished without grinding on the starter.

The float bowl fuel also evaporates from just sitting. Same deal, just turn the key on and let the pump run a bit before cranking the engine.



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Just a word of caution: Once you start bastardizing something, it’s yours. You engineered it. You built it. After that whatever problems you may encounter are of your own design and you will have to figure them out on your own.
As part of the above:
Any electric fuel pump should be wired so that the pump shuts off if the engine stops.
If you get in an accident, you don't want a fuel pump continuing to run -- in some scenarios that could be disastrous.

As @Blusmbl said, a relay would be ideal:
Wire with an ignition-fed trigger to the coil (from the fusebox is OK), with a ground trigger thru the oil pressure switch. Feed the main power wire off something OTHER than the car's original wiring, esp anythign in the fuse box.
You could then wire a momentary switch as a second/parallel coil ground, to aid in manually running the pump for refilling the carb.
Turn the ignition key 'on' and press the momentary switch. Release that switch, and crank the engine as normal. When the oil pressure switch closes the pump will start running again.

Also consider any 4-5 seconds spent cranking the engine, while the mechanical pump is filling the carb, is time for engine oil pressure to be building. So that's a benefit.
 
As part of the above:
Any electric fuel pump should be wired so that the pump shuts off if the engine stops.
If you get in an accident, you don't want a fuel pump continuing to run -- in some scenarios that could be disastrous.
The oil pressure switches are good. Even better is the install of a "crash" or "roll-over "switch. Crown Vics were a good source for a cheap one. They are in the trunk near the spare.

Or buy one new. Painless Performance 80160 Painless Performance Rollover Safety Switches | Summit Racing

I was in one roll-over wreck ('68 Camaro, belonged to a girl friend and she was driving) and the engine was still running after we stopped. I reached over to kill the engine and it kept dieseling for quite a while after I turned the key. With it dieseling, I would bet there was enough oil pressure that it wouldn't trip the pressure switch.
 
As part of the above:
Any electric fuel pump should be wired so that the pump shuts off if the engine stops.
If you get in an accident, you don't want a fuel pump continuing to run -- in some scenarios that could be disastrous.

As @Blusmbl said, a relay would be ideal:
Wire with an ignition-fed trigger to the coil (from the fusebox is OK), with a ground trigger thru the oil pressure switch. Feed the main power wire off something OTHER than the car's original wiring, esp anythign in the fuse box.
You could then wire a momentary switch as a second/parallel coil ground, to aid in manually running the pump for refilling the carb.
Turn the ignition key 'on' and press the momentary switch. Release that switch, and crank the engine as normal. When the oil pressure switch closes the pump will start running again.

Also consider any 4-5 seconds spent cranking the engine, while the mechanical pump is filling the carb, is time for engine oil pressure to be building. So that's a benefit.
Exactly. Don’t wire up some mess that keeps pumping gas after it’s no longer wanted. Its not as simple as it seems.
 
The oil pressure switches are good. Even better is the install of a "crash" or "roll-over "switch. Crown Vics were a good source for a cheap one. They are in the trunk near the spare.

Or buy one new. Painless Performance 80160 Painless Performance Rollover Safety Switches | Summit Racing

I was in one roll-over wreck ('68 Camaro, belonged to a girl friend and she was driving) and the engine was still running after we stopped. I reached over to kill the engine and it kept dieseling for quite a while after I turned the key. With it dieseling, I would bet there was enough oil pressure that it wouldn't trip the pressure switch.
Well, that was a Chevy, you just can't stop one of those.

Yeah, I forgot that Ford used an inertia switch in the trunk to stop the pumps on the EFI cars. Don't know if it would work in a rollover, but I'm sure Ford did the FMEA on that.

Anecdotally, I read somewhere years ago that when EFI was first put on hte Crown Vic copcars in the mid-late 80s, some professional criminals learned that if you slammed the brakes and let the cop rearend you a bit, it would trip their inertia switch and they'd be out of the chase for a few minutes (if they knew to reset the switch, that is). IIRC that was 1-2 years and the copcars reverted to carbed engines.
 
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