1969 Imperial progress thread

[vdk2010]

And here are a lot of pictures of the Media Blasting, Brunox applying and the results.

It came out really nice. The spots that are not black are parts where I missed to remove all the spray adhesive. Except for the door sill parts. I guess that's a different kind of metal which is not reacting with the Brunox because they haven't turned black at all. Maybe they are plated in some kind?!

The rear axle tunnel and the trunk will follow next year. I just told the painter to cover it with Brunox because it can start converting rust to make it easier to remove next year.

 

[vdk2010]

The painter used very low preasure to apply the Brunox, so we could paint it in my shop.

 

[vdk2010]

I'm really happy with the result.

 

[commando1]

Thanks Stan! Wrong part for me but thanks for thinking of me!
I don't have vent windows.

When I see something for a 69 Imp, I naturally think of you.

 

[vdk2010]

When I see something for a 69 Imp, I naturally think of you.

Aawww, that's nice ;)

I highly appreciate that! Keep 'em coming!

 

[Samplingman]

What exactly is this Brunox, and what do you do with it before top coating with primer? I googled but seems all the sites are in German......

 

[vdk2010]

What exactly is this Brunox, and what do you do with it before top coating with primer? I googled but seems all the sites are in German......

James, Yes, Brunox is a european thing. It's an Epoxy Primer combined with a rust converter.

I decided to use it after all that sanding and media blasting because of a few small rusty pores here and there. I don't want them to start rusting again. Now they are converted and will probably never rust again. At least I hope so....

Here is a English description from their website.

APPLICATION AND EFFECT

• rust neutralizer
• epoxy primer

for
the industrial maintenance of structures, plants, machines, vehicles etc.
BRUNOX® epoxy is the patented Anticorrosion-system on an epoxy-resin base. The amber-coloured, clear liquid forms a metal-organic iron complex with the neutralized rust. This black, very compact and resistant protective layer, which is formed, guarantees long-term corrosion protection and is at the same time a perfect primer coat because of the epoxy-resin components. It is most suitable for overhauling machines, plants, vehicles. Because of its high penetration into the rust pores and its perfect film formation (no brush traces) it guarantees a high level of effectiveness and further treatment.

Remove loose rust, grease, dirt and paint residues infiltrated with rust with a wire brush, grinding wheel etc.. BRUNOX® epoxy is applied in 2-3 coats to the remaining porous rust with a brush, roller, spray gun or in several coats from the handy CFC free BRUNOX® epoxy spray can.

It really came out nice and you don't have to do special treatment to it before spraying the primer over it. My painter told me to just slightly roughen it with a scotch brite pad and then degrease it.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

It really came out nice and you don't have to do special treatment to it before spraying the primer over it. My painter told me to just slightly roughen it with a scotch brite pad and then degrease it.

Looks nice, and that's a nice base to start working out/up.

 

[imon_2nd]

Will any "normal" primer work on top of this stuff?

 

[vdk2010]

Yes, any primer will work as a next step. I'm planing to use a 2k epoxy primer next.

 

[commando1]

This is to preserve the bare metal while you take care of any bodywork, correct?

 

[vdk2010]

Jep, that's correct. And is also the first layer of paint. Other then the junk I used last year, the Brunox stays on.

 

[bluefury361]

[QUOTE="vdk2010,
I'm still trying to reproduce the rubber boots but all attempts failed so far.[/QUOTE]

SO FAR........!
Can't help but admire your tenacity Julian.

 

[vdk2010]

SO FAR........!
Can't help but admire your tenacity Julian.

That's what I like. Finding the best possible or in my opinion nicest way to solve a problem. Not using the easiest or most obvious solution ;)

 

[vdk2010]

Happy Birthday, Jacky. She turns 48 today. On December 11, 1968 she saw the light of day ;)

 

[vdk2010]

Hey Guys, it's been a while. Had a lot to do and not much time to do something on the Imp. But did a few things here and there. Started rebuilding a lot of parts but haven't finished them yet. Will post about them when they are finished.

I finished digitalizing all the wiring diagrams I need! I digitalized and colored them, upgraded them where I plan to upgrade the oem harnisses and integraded the new connectors and so on.

Here is an example:

More coming soon. Now, the work shop season is about to start

 

[300rag]

Good to see you back

 

[Ripinator]

Hey Guys, it's been a while. Had a lot to do and not much time to do something on the Imp. But did a few things here and there. Started rebuilding a lot of parts but haven't finished them yet. Will post about them when they are finished.

I finished digitalizing all the wiring diagrams I need! I digitalized and colored them, upgraded them where I plan to upgrade the oem harnisses and integraded the new connectors and so on.

Here is an example:
View attachment 117626

View attachment 117625

More coming soon. Now, the work shop season is about to start

I wondered what you were doing. You are still a mad man.

 

[cantflip]

I wondered what you were doing. You are still a mad man.

I'm inclined to go with "eccentric genius"... especially if he would be kind enough to digitize the schematics for a 74 Imperial...

 

[vdk2010]

I wondered what you were doing. You are still a mad man.

I'm inclined to go with "eccentric genius"... especially if he would be kind enough to digitize the schematics for a 74 Imperial...

Unfortunately, I don't have all the time I would like to have for the hobby. But I'm sure I'm not the only one with this problem ;)

Which leads me to the 74 wiring diagrams. I would, but it's very very time consuming do redraw, reshape and colorize every single line with Adobe Illustrator. The other thing is, I found a lot of discrepancies and differences between the diagrams and the actual harnesses. For example, they marked the wires with tracers with a "*", but they don't list the tracer color. So, without having the original harness right next to you to check every single wire for correctness, it's impossible to draw accurate diagrams.