1970 brake question

[cbarge]

Looking at the second and third picture, the springs have had extra leaves added.

That means that someone has "rebuilt" the springs, and with that rebuilding, the other leaves were rearched and that usually means a higher ride height... along with a lumber wagon ride.

I would suggest new springs and one company I've used is Leaf Springs For Your Car or Light Truck 1940-1990's+ I know the shipping to Canada would be high, so maybe asking some of our Canadian members here can give you a different vendor. @cbarge might have someone.

I bought from ESPO before but I live close enough to the US border (45 minute drive) that I have an American shipping address.
@Fireguyfire where do you live? Do you or have a buddy close to the Border? Any American freinds you can get parts shipped to?

 

[413]

Just wire brush the threads and spray them with penetrant couple times a day for a few days prior to removal. Not WD40

 

[CBODY67]

Usually, Chrysler rear leaf springs are NOT the same for each side. The rh side has another 1/2 leaf for additional torque wind-up control. As you'll notice in the FSM specs. On some HD applications, more than just that 1/2 leaf difference, side to side.

Considering the presence of the wax-coated anti-friction pads at the end of the longer leaves, it should be the standard suspension rear leaves. According to the FSM, the HD rear springs used a zinc pad between the leaves.

The geometry on the Chrysler rear leaf springs is that the axle is mounted forward of the center of the leafs. No way to change that without a lot of alterations to the rear frame rails, I suspect. They work great as they are, so no need to change that.

 

[Big_John]

Just wire brush the threads and spray them with penetrant couple times a day for a few days prior to removal. Not WD40

Much better off cracking the nuts and not trying that.... No new replacements out there... and finding good used is getting really hard.

It might work with a west coast or southern car, but anywhere else, you have a good chance of breaking the bolt and there you are... No shackle and you feel like you should have at least been kissed.

Replacing 4 nuts is pretty easy....

 

[Big_John]

Shackle for reference

 

[Fireguyfire]

Here’s a 90 degree photo of the passenger side rear tire that shows just how high the rear end is sitting compared to the photos of other 70 300’s.
The rear springs are definitely getting replaced with stock ones.

 

[413]

Much better off cracking the nuts and not trying that.... No new replacements out there... and finding good used is getting really hard.

It might work with a west coast or southern car, but anywhere else, you have a good chance of breaking the bolt and there you are... No shackle and you feel like you should have at least been kissed.

Replacing 4 nuts is pretty easy....

Yes you are right, I forgot about the rust belt cars.

 

[Fireguyfire]

So I see in the FSM that they talk about “station wagon and convertible” rear springs, and then the rest of the models.
Can anyone enlighten me as to what would be different about a convertibles rear springs?

 

[Big_John]

So I see in the FSM that they talk about “station wagon and convertible” rear springs, and then the rest of the models.
Can anyone enlighten me as to what would be different about a convertibles rear springs?

Convertible and Station Wagons don't have the rubber isolators around the leaf springs.

 

[Boydsdodge]

Be careful of your rear brake flex line when you let axel hang. Many are not long enough to hang axel without damaging them.
I replaced my Imperial rear flex lines with pick up truck flex line.
72 Dodge D200. it is 4" longer.
RAYBESTOS BH36664
When you adjust your torsion bars do it with with weight off the springs. Old adjusters can strip, not fun.

 

[Fireguyfire]

And why would there not be rubber insulators on convertible and wagon springs?
Are the spring heights the same?
I’m asking because I may have a line on a hood set of used ones off of a sedan.

 

[Big_John]

And why would there not be rubber insulators on convertible and wagon springs?
Are the spring heights the same?
I’m asking because I may have a line on a hood set of used ones off of a sedan.

To carry more weight on the station wagon and not to introduce more flex in the convertible.

I may be wrong here, but I think that the springs with the isolator have a larger/longer centering pin and you really can't interchange them without some work.

I do know that when I ordered my springs, I had to specify "no isolators" in my vert.

 

[Fireguyfire]

Ok, good to know.

 

[Fireguyfire]

I’m starting to wonder if as at least a short term solution I should try and rebuild my springs removing the added leaf, assuming that they are the original springs which I suspect they are.
The problem with that might be were they re arched at all in the process of adding the extra leaf, although it looks like the extra leaf was done very amateurishly.

 

[Fireguyfire]

So here is todays update on my suspension saga in the brakes forum! (Sorry mods).
I talked to the old spring guru at the 80 year old spring shop in Calgary and ram my situation by him. He suggested why not disassemble the springs, remove the extra leaf, reassemble and install and see where the height winds up.
It only took an hour to remove the drivers side rear spring, disassemble it and then remove the extra added leaf.
Here is where I am in the process, and if it looks like just refurbishing my springs will work then I will replace all of the interleaf sliders and band clamps, etc.

So after removing the added leaf I wind up with a 6 leaf spring, with the 6th being a little half leaf at the bottom. Would this be corrrect for a factory wagon/convertible spring?
Does anything catch anybody’s eye again while I have the spring apart and the extra leaf gone?
I seem to recall when I have restored B and E body springs on the past that they had a number stamped into them somewhere.
Is there a factory number stamped into C body leaves, and if so where would it be?
I’m hoping this will confirm that I at least am dealing with my original springs that just had a leaf added.

 

[Fireguyfire]

So an update on this just to close it out.
I spoke to the old car specialist at our local Standens springs shop and he felt that there was a 95% chance that my springs would be fine once I rebuilt them.
So, I bought new modern leaf end sliders to replace the worn out wax covered canvas ones, all new bushings, new rear shocks and disassembled, removed the extra leaf, cleaned and rebuilt both rear springs.
I finished reinstalling then tonight and finally dropped the car down off of the lift, and I’m thrilled with the results! Both sides are exactly as they should be and does it ever change the feel of the entire car!
My front suspension rebuild kit should be here any day and once I rebuild the front end I’ll put the front back to factory specs as well and the car should look great.
Here’s a before and after showing what a difference the rebuild and removing the leaf made.

 

[Fireguyfire]

And also a shout out to Big John who had some great suggestions and sent me some photos of his gorgeous car to use as an example of how the rear should sit on these cars.