1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Really did. Took my family out for a drive tonight. We stopped at a Mobil station and picked up some soft drinks. Car drove strong.
1972 Fury III 360 101498 miles
- Thread starter 1970FuryConv
- Start date
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Agree! Love the exposed HL 72 grill. Also, @oliver warned me that it would look like "an angry vacuum cleaner" if I installed a hidden HL grill. Can't have that now can we.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
I saw the hidden headlight grille first, so the exposed headlight grille made me stop and think for a moment. I like them both, the exposed looks tougher and the hidden classier. Or something like that, to me at least.
Car on the right is a member here, but he doesn't post.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Is the tan car yours?
Today
· Hood: right edge was above edge of fender when hood is closed. The problem is more accentuated at the front of the hood then the rear. If I push down on the right front corner, the hood becomes almost level with the fender. If I push down on the left front corner, the hood also goes down. In other words, the hood can be rock side to side on the hood latch as a pivot
· Hood Hinges: spray lube on both sides, but a heavier coat on right side. Hood opens and shuts easily.
· Hood Latch: 2 adjustment bolts, ½ inch short socket, 3/8 BB, 3/8 R to loosen bolts and drop the hood latch as low as it will go. Tighten bolts. The hood is almost level on both sides and there remains a small opening between the top of the bumper and the front center of the hood. Hood contacts hood bumpers and no longer rocks side to side.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
No, but he is a FABO member. I gave him some crap about not being over here, but he said FABO is enough for him. He's got a few nice old Mopars.
I have a 1972 coupe with hidden headlights in Minneapolis. I like you car!
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
I was wondering if you still had the car, wasn't sure if you had previously mentioned maybe selling it, or if that was another member. Still need to see it in person!
No plans on selling although wife always thinks it is a good idea. It is at The RT Garage in Belle Plaine. The RT Garage is very very skilled and knowledgeable on mid 60's to early 70's Mopars. Their shop is filled with auction grade Mopars, all they do is Mopars. I am really impressed and promote them because I was really in a mess from the first shop. RT Garage has uninstalled and now properly reinstalling many of the parts I had put on in a Duluth shop (Firm Feel Suspension, TTI Exhaust, transmission, gas tank, 1975 Imperial rearend (including correct pads and ebrake) all taken down and reinstalled correctly. I am waiting on the proper radiator (made mistake and purchased poorly fitting Be Cool) now have one from Glenray Radiator for 440. I am waiting on month 5 or 6 for my new headliner from SMS, so cannot put winshields in yet. Have a new dash from ABCMopar which I am waiting to install until the headliner is in. Had a nice paint job in original color and the Duluth shop scratched (without exaggerating) every panel and hood, etc. I will have color coat and sand in spring. My brother just purchased the 1971 Crème Colored Fury in the craigslist ad recently and we plan to go to the Mopars in the Park in next year. Have the Gary T. radio conversion I was just finishing installing before taken to shop. I will upload video when done. Here are a few recent photos showing some of the work
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Sucks about the Duluth shop. I had the same thing happen when I tried to restore a 1969 Dodge Charger RT many moons ago. Caused me to run out of money and sell the car. Glad you found someone trustworthy!!
Some hood shots.
Before adjust
After
Views I never get tired of
Look at the body around that rear window. Almost Pristine!
Given the color and previous experience with a rusted dutchman/trunk/rear subframe, the car was irresistible
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Oil Consumption, 1 quart in 600 miles. Seems like a lot, but maybe not for a 92000 mile 46 year-old motor. No leaks except tiny amount of drip at oil pan plug
· Fury has PCV valve, but no breather filter. PCV valve looks new, bottom of valve is dry, and PCV passes the shake test. The Edelbrock valve cover has a baffle below the PCV valve. I pulled the hose and it had a little oil at PCV fitting, and was completely dry at carburetor port. PCV hose does not show any evidence of sucking oil, like a drip. Is the PCV capable of drawing off that much oil if it’s totally malfunctioning and the system is not vented?
PCV
Baffle
No Breather
· Valve Seals and removing valve covers (@Wollfen suggestion on harmonic balancer check). All 8 spark plugs are dry. No smoke at exhaust. Is it worth it to replace the valve seals, if the spark plugs are dry and there is no blue smoke (or any colored smoke) in the exhaust?
· Engine Rebuild: there is no blue smoke coming out of the exhaust. So the last question is: am I missing something?
· Fury has PCV valve, but no breather filter. PCV valve looks new, bottom of valve is dry, and PCV passes the shake test. The Edelbrock valve cover has a baffle below the PCV valve. I pulled the hose and it had a little oil at PCV fitting, and was completely dry at carburetor port. PCV hose does not show any evidence of sucking oil, like a drip. Is the PCV capable of drawing off that much oil if it’s totally malfunctioning and the system is not vented?
PCV
Baffle
No Breather
· Valve Seals and removing valve covers (@Wollfen suggestion on harmonic balancer check). All 8 spark plugs are dry. No smoke at exhaust. Is it worth it to replace the valve seals, if the spark plugs are dry and there is no blue smoke (or any colored smoke) in the exhaust?
· Engine Rebuild: there is no blue smoke coming out of the exhaust. So the last question is: am I missing something?
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
What's this here? You need a valve cover breather for the PVC.
Plus how do you add oil to engine?
Plus how do you add oil to engine?
Wollfen
Old Man with a Hat
That's the oil cap.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Agree, but I don't think that being missing will make the car burn oil. However, tell me if you think I'm wrong. I'll listen.
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
600 miles per quart is kind of high even for a 100k mileage engine, could be close to going round 2x. That's like a quart of oil every 2 tanks of gas.
The breather is important and I don't get why the chrome covers are missing the extra hole for one, maybe a 1/4 mile thing.
If you fix that do it like the stock set up, ie breather on 1 side and pvc on other valve cover.
Recently I saw a ad with a hopped up motor with chrome valve covers that had the breather inlet and PVC on the same valve cover.
The breather is important and I don't get why the chrome covers are missing the extra hole for one, maybe a 1/4 mile thing.
If you fix that do it like the stock set up, ie breather on 1 side and pvc on other valve cover.
Recently I saw a ad with a hopped up motor with chrome valve covers that had the breather inlet and PVC on the same valve cover.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
I agree: either engine has 200K miles or it's not original to the car. Then, who knows? Engine Block ID Pad: 2D289 are the only characters on the pad. That does match part of the VIN, but the last 3 #s of the serial # are MIA. Jan 72 cast in block, May build date for Fury.
Ben... just out of curiosity, what weight motor oil are you using?
Oil consumption of 1 quart for every couple of tanks of gas is way too much.
If it’s not burning and going out the tail pipe, where is it going?
You say plugs are dry.
Something’s up.
I say check the valve stem seals and replace them if hard or broken. On a good running, smooth power producing engine, if the valve stem seals are bad it will burn oil under load a lot more than at idle and still not be enough to be visible. However, the engine will almost always puff smoke at start up from the oil entering the cylinders overnight but clear fairly quickly.
Without a breather to equalize the internal block pressure, I would think the engine will suck oil out of the cylinders past the oil ring on compression and power stroke ruining the rings and cylinder bores. So get one ASAP.
A heavier oil may keep your engine running longer but I fear you will need a rebuild fairly soon if the source of the loss does not make itself more obvious..... very soon.
This is a puzzler. Love this thread!
Javier
Oil consumption of 1 quart for every couple of tanks of gas is way too much.
If it’s not burning and going out the tail pipe, where is it going?
You say plugs are dry.
Something’s up.
I say check the valve stem seals and replace them if hard or broken. On a good running, smooth power producing engine, if the valve stem seals are bad it will burn oil under load a lot more than at idle and still not be enough to be visible. However, the engine will almost always puff smoke at start up from the oil entering the cylinders overnight but clear fairly quickly.
Without a breather to equalize the internal block pressure, I would think the engine will suck oil out of the cylinders past the oil ring on compression and power stroke ruining the rings and cylinder bores. So get one ASAP.
A heavier oil may keep your engine running longer but I fear you will need a rebuild fairly soon if the source of the loss does not make itself more obvious..... very soon.
This is a puzzler. Love this thread!
Javier
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Hi Javier.
Motor oil is 10W-40. Was thinking of going to 20W50
Valve seals: the car does smoke a little at start up. I was attributing that to the choke being partially closed and additional hydrocarbons in the exhaust. However, it could be accumulated oil from overnight. I was also thinking that the smart thing to do is pull the valve covers and replace the valve seals. I was thinking of ordering umbrella seals. Is that what you would use?
Breather: I was also thinking that maybe the lack of breather was contributing to to the oil consumption problem. I was thinking it would be pretty simple to get one of those oil caps, with the dome shape, that has a breather built-in.
The car is a puzzler. The engine has a January 19, 1972 production date, but doesn’t have the whole VIN serial number and all the information that is normally under the front of the left side head is sanded off. The 727 transmission has a May production date, which is a little late for a May production date car. And the 727 transmission has no VIN serial number. That plate is blank. The car cannot possibly have 200,000 miles on it. The body and undercarriage are just way too nice. I think the car really is a 90,000 mile car. But the hood not being properly adjusted and the car having been repainted makes me wonder if somebody pulled a high mileage engine to fake a numbers matching car and if the transmission is a replacement from early in the car’s vehicle history.
Thanks for the continued input from Coral Gables Florida! Ben
Duncan
Well-Known Member
I had a similar problem with my Fury. The only indication I had was a puff of blue smoke (at first you had to be looking for it but it eventually became enough to see - very quickly, at startup) Turns out my valve seals were gone gone gone. Replaced those and the problem went away.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Thanks Duncan! What seals did you use? Vendor/Brand? Small block or big block?
Duncan
Well-Known Member
I have no idea the brand, I had it done at my friend's shop. I could probably ask him. The car has the 318 LA engine.
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