1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Mine is an LA small block 360. Situations are identical. I'm going to change seals in my garage. Thanks Duncan, for the info confirming the need to do the job.
1972 Fury III 360 101498 miles
- Thread starter 1970FuryConv
- Start date
Duncan
Well-Known Member
Well, now you have me really hoping I was right!!! :-D
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
9-7-18 FURY on woodgrain, Letters remove
· Letters: remove with unwaxed dental floss
· Adhesive: remove with Goo Gone @oliver
· Whole job probably took 15 minutes and 10 minutes of that was finding supplies and figuring out what I did with the Goo Gone. Spent months wondering how to do the job. This is the one time I’m thankful for cheap parts, especially cheap adhesive. Thanks everybody for your help. @Big_John, @Newport 66, @73Coupe
Before (Dash paint is dark gold, not green. Phone cam sucks)
After
· Letters: remove with unwaxed dental floss
· Adhesive: remove with Goo Gone @oliver
· Whole job probably took 15 minutes and 10 minutes of that was finding supplies and figuring out what I did with the Goo Gone. Spent months wondering how to do the job. This is the one time I’m thankful for cheap parts, especially cheap adhesive. Thanks everybody for your help. @Big_John, @Newport 66, @73Coupe
Before (Dash paint is dark gold, not green. Phone cam sucks)
After
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
I wondered when those were going to leave 
I’d use the mopar performance umbrella seals.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Months of paranoia about damaging a rare non a/c woodgrain panel. Then big smile and sigh of relief.I wondered when those were going to leave
Big John suggested dental floss and 73Coupe advised gentle solvent. Perfect. If every job went that easy, I'd be an ace mechanic.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Thanks Javier! I ordered some Comp Cams 504 seals. If they don't work, I'll keep these in mind. Ben
They will all work. They all rely on oil’s capillarity to make a seal and prevent excess oil past it and into the head where the valve guides seal is much longer and (though much tighter) will actually promote oil movement through gravity.
Pictures when you do them would be interesting.
Needless to say, while doing the new valve stem seals, it would be good to check for bent pushrods, bad springs, worn rockers etc.
Last edited:
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Valve Seals: car runs great, but still has oil consumption. So here's the latest trip into the garage.
9-29-18
Remove fan for easy harmonic balancer bolt access
LS Valve Cover
Cork gaskets sealed OK, valve cover bolts had less than 25"lbs torque, not over torqued
LS Rockers
Factory paint on valve springs was apparently green. Rocker position at TDC compression stroke. I was checking with piece of coat hanger thru spark plug hole while a helper turned harmonic balancer bolt. Max piston height was 0°BTDC on timing chain cover grid. Timing chain probably OK.
RS Rockers
9-29-18
Remove fan for easy harmonic balancer bolt access
LS Valve Cover
Cork gaskets sealed OK, valve cover bolts had less than 25"lbs torque, not over torqued
LS Rockers
Factory paint on valve springs was apparently green. Rocker position at TDC compression stroke. I was checking with piece of coat hanger thru spark plug hole while a helper turned harmonic balancer bolt. Max piston height was 0°BTDC on timing chain cover grid. Timing chain probably OK.
RS Rockers
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Valve Seals 9-30-18
Comp Cams Umbrella Seals
Powerhouse Air Hose Adapter
Powerhouse Valve Spring Compressor $101.44 from Tick Performance
Air Hose Adapter
Valve Spring Compressor: removed #1 exhaust valve keepers, retainer, and spring. then...
Near Disaster: Valve, exhaust #1: did not think that compressed air moved the piston down. Brain Fart: Thoughtlessly disconnected air hose from adapter, and valve dropped into cylinder. Never disconnect air hose if someone is not holding harmonic balancer bolt steady at TDC or if keepers not installed on spring retainers.
Removed exhaust manifold bolts and pushed manifold away from head. Sue turned harmonic balancer clockwise, while I used my left index finger thru ext port to push valve stem to bottom of valve guide and pushed on valve with piece of coat hanger thru SP hole, using right hand. Took several tries, but I managed to align the valve with the guide.
Imagine my relief when I saw the top of the valve stem come back up thru the guide. I have never been happier to see the top of a valve in my life. I laid my hand on the fender and said, "You are the luckiest car I have ever met."
Decided to quit before something worse happened
Comp Cams Umbrella Seals
Powerhouse Air Hose Adapter
Powerhouse Valve Spring Compressor $101.44 from Tick Performance
Air Hose Adapter
Valve Spring Compressor: removed #1 exhaust valve keepers, retainer, and spring. then...
Near Disaster: Valve, exhaust #1: did not think that compressed air moved the piston down. Brain Fart: Thoughtlessly disconnected air hose from adapter, and valve dropped into cylinder. Never disconnect air hose if someone is not holding harmonic balancer bolt steady at TDC or if keepers not installed on spring retainers.
Removed exhaust manifold bolts and pushed manifold away from head. Sue turned harmonic balancer clockwise, while I used my left index finger thru ext port to push valve stem to bottom of valve guide and pushed on valve with piece of coat hanger thru SP hole, using right hand. Took several tries, but I managed to align the valve with the guide.
Imagine my relief when I saw the top of the valve stem come back up thru the guide. I have never been happier to see the top of a valve in my life. I laid my hand on the fender and said, "You are the luckiest car I have ever met."
Decided to quit before something worse happened
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
Powerhouse Valve Spring Compressor $101.44 from Tick Performance
Damn! To think I made one from a bigazz piece of angle iron and a torch, grinder and my junior high metal working skills.
Damn! To think I made one from a bigazz piece of angle iron and a torch, grinder and my junior high metal working skills.
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
Opps yea don't let off the air till your done with the cylinder. Also on a old engine give the top spring retainer a light rap too before you try to compress and remove the valve spring retainer locks (keys to some).
They can get stuck with age.
They can get stuck with age.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Valve Seals 10-2-18
#1 Exh, done. umbrella seal, rock hard
#1 Int, 2-groove keepers, old seal in pieces
Intake #1, new umbrella seal
Seal installed with dab of Sil-Glyde, also keepers
Intake #1, seal installed
#8 Exhaust, 3-groove keepers, broken seal
#8 Exh, installed
#8 Int, 2-groove stem
Firing Order, I did 1-8-4-3-6-5 today. #5
Right side
The valve seals I removed. Only 3 were intact and they are rock hard. Think we found the reason for my oil consumption. Unfortunately, there's probably a lot of pieces in the oil pan and/or pickup
A procedure for this tool
Valve Compressor Tool install, 9/16 socket, 6 ext, 3/8 R, 5 washers each rocker shaft bolt. Turn HB ¼ turn C, 1 ¼ socket, 3 ext, ½ R. Helper turned slightly more while I used straight piece coathanger to find TDC. Helper hold HB. Air hose tool install at SP hole. Air hose attach. Hammer and punch retainer to break loose from keepers. Tool: compress spring @ retainer. Keepers remove with telescoping magnet. Retainer & spring remove. Sil-Glyde seal & install, rock side to side to get past grooves for keepers. Sil-Glyde keepers. Helper still hold HB bolt. Install spring, retainer, keepers (right hand from outside, slide keepers around top of valve while holding retainer down with left hand on valve compressor tool. Release pressure on retainer.
#1 Exh, done. umbrella seal, rock hard
#1 Int, 2-groove keepers, old seal in pieces
Intake #1, new umbrella seal
Seal installed with dab of Sil-Glyde, also keepers
Intake #1, seal installed
#8 Exhaust, 3-groove keepers, broken seal
#8 Exh, installed
#8 Int, 2-groove stem
Firing Order, I did 1-8-4-3-6-5 today. #5
Right side
The valve seals I removed. Only 3 were intact and they are rock hard. Think we found the reason for my oil consumption. Unfortunately, there's probably a lot of pieces in the oil pan and/or pickup
A procedure for this tool
Valve Compressor Tool install, 9/16 socket, 6 ext, 3/8 R, 5 washers each rocker shaft bolt. Turn HB ¼ turn C, 1 ¼ socket, 3 ext, ½ R. Helper turned slightly more while I used straight piece coathanger to find TDC. Helper hold HB. Air hose tool install at SP hole. Air hose attach. Hammer and punch retainer to break loose from keepers. Tool: compress spring @ retainer. Keepers remove with telescoping magnet. Retainer & spring remove. Sil-Glyde seal & install, rock side to side to get past grooves for keepers. Sil-Glyde keepers. Helper still hold HB bolt. Install spring, retainer, keepers (right hand from outside, slide keepers around top of valve while holding retainer down with left hand on valve compressor tool. Release pressure on retainer.
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
Yes on pieces in the oil pan & pickup screen. When I did the valve seals on my 1968 Fury III $100 beater I didn't bother cleaning the oil pan & pickup screen, and in further maintenance of removing the intake manifold to clear out a plugged heat crossover to get back cold weather driveability and choke action I found more broken seal parts in the lifter valley area. I didn't even bother with it till I had many many miles on the car and was sending it to the boneyard that I decided to strip down the engine for a peek as this was a 318 that would not die.
What I found was that the pickup screen was clogged with all the rest of the hardened carbonized seal pieces so much that the screen had collapsed as it was designed to do when it gets plugged and in the oil pump rotor you could see where the hardened pieces had pitted the rotor as it ground up the hardened seal pieces!
Now I've worked on many Ford small blocks with doing a replacement oil pickup tube that was clogged because of cheap oil and engine light showing because of low oil pressure and was lucky that nothing got into the oil pump because anybody that know Fords knows that the oil pump is driven off the distributor via a small hex shaft and if you get anything solid into that pump it will shear the hex shaft leaving you dead in the water.
You may wanna pull that pan and check your screen.
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
Pull the oil pan next, has it had a timing chain and gears? That may be the next project
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Hi Sporty
Haven't pulled timing chain cover, so can't know for sure. It's painted, which makes me guess a timing chain was done. Positive: Timing is spot on as far as #1 cylinder at TDC and matching 0°BTDC on timing chain cover grid. The car runs like a cam was done. Usually, timing chain would also be done, but then new springs and seals weren't done. The car runs well, which also points to a good timing chain, but I haven't gotten to that point yet where I pull the timing chain cover.
I agree that the oil pan needs to be pulled. May be able to see double roller chain from bottom or with mirror. Have to wait and see.
Speaking of pans, what 727 trans pan would you recommend? Replaced filter and gasket, thorough cleaning, dry surface, correct torque, still have leak at left front corner.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Valve Seals completed after work tonight
#7 intake seal
#7 Exhaust, relief that brake booster did not interfere with keeper remove
LS done
#2 exhaust, typical of what I found when removed valve spring
#2 Intake, new Comp seals look better, hope they last
#2 Intake ready for compress & keeper install
#2 Intake done, RS done
Final view of all broken pieces. Wonder if valve seals never changed in 46 years, or if car was regularly overheating at one point and that contributed to disintegration.
Time to put top back together and focus on eng/trans pans
#7 intake seal
#7 Exhaust, relief that brake booster did not interfere with keeper remove
LS done
#2 exhaust, typical of what I found when removed valve spring
#2 Intake, new Comp seals look better, hope they last
#2 Intake ready for compress & keeper install
#2 Intake done, RS done
Final view of all broken pieces. Wonder if valve seals never changed in 46 years, or if car was regularly overheating at one point and that contributed to disintegration.
Time to put top back together and focus on eng/trans pans
78Brougham
"Chump"
I think it's mostly due to age ... I wouldn't worry about it to much.
Great job!
Great job!
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
If you remove the dist cap and watch the rotor while turning the crank back and forth it will give you a real good indicator on how tight the timing chain is. Looking good, it's coming along nicely.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Rocker Shafts
Wanted to be sure no sludge inside shafts to block oil flow to Rockers
Knocked out end plugs and cleaned with brake cleaner & engine brush
End plugs
4 new end plugs from Advance Auto: $3.33 total
Deep Cup, Made in US, old vs new
Installed with Permatex#2, 10mm long socket, and big hammer
Rocker lube holes offset from bolt holes toward outside of head
Rocker arms have right and left markings, and valve tips face away from each other. Assured all push rod lube ports clear.
Rockers, clamps, and bolts back on shafts
Wanted to be sure no sludge inside shafts to block oil flow to Rockers
Knocked out end plugs and cleaned with brake cleaner & engine brush
End plugs
4 new end plugs from Advance Auto: $3.33 total
Deep Cup, Made in US, old vs new
Installed with Permatex#2, 10mm long socket, and big hammer
Rocker lube holes offset from bolt holes toward outside of head
Rocker arms have right and left markings, and valve tips face away from each other. Assured all push rod lube ports clear.
Rockers, clamps, and bolts back on shafts
Similar threads
