1972 Fury III 360 101498 miles

Check it's oil level, one of my jacks quit and that was the problem even though it didn't appear to be leaking.
Thanks Bill. I added oil prior to trying to use it, because mine has leaked for a while. It lifted half way once and then no lift at all. I pumped repeatedly, hoping, but no lift. I had to use blocks and jack instead.
 
except that my 3-ton hydraulic jack gave out. No lift. Anyone know where to get another?

Ya mean something like this?

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Google is your friend, use the force!
 
Motor Mounts (came with car, made in Korea)
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Usual crack at top of left side mount
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Mount bolt at LS subframe
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Lifting engine and parking it on blocks (also took off RS subframe mount bolt before)
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LS Mount is buried behind steering gear and pump bracket. Need engine lifted to get access.
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Front nuts of LS mount. Both mounts are behind engine block lugs.
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Couldn't get 1/2 ratchet on front nuts. Had to make do with 3/8 breaker bar, 5/8 short socket and cheater pipe to break it loose.
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LS Mount & Bracket removed
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Another angle
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Motor Mounts (came with car, made in Korea)
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Usual crack at top of left side mount
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Mount bolt at LS subframe
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Lifting engine and parking it on blocks (also took off RS subframe mount bolt before)
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LS Mount is buried behind steering gear and pump bracket. Need engine lifted to get access.
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Front nuts of LS mount. Both mounts are behind engine block lugs.
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Couldn't get 1/2 ratchet on front nuts. Had to make do with 3/8 breaker bar, 5/8 short socket and cheater pipe to break it loose.
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LS Mount & Bracket removed
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Another angle
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It makes replace in one on a big block seem so simple! Good work, keep it up.
 
Right Side Motor Mount, subframe bolt
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I removed the lower radiator hose, so clearance around the back of the fuel pump was not a big issue.
It's nice that all the bolts and nuts are 5/8
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Right Side, lifted enough to remove mount and bracket
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RS Motor Mount
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Another view
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2x4 over trans tailshaft to keep everything from tilting overnight
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It makes replace in one on a big block seem so simple! Good work, keep it up.
It's also a pain that one of the 360 mount brackets is different from 318. I think it's the right side, but I'll certainly take correction on that if wrong.
1972 Fury LS 360 Mount & Bracket
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1970 Fury LS Bracket 318
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Don't have pic of 1970 318 RS Bracket, but I've always thought it was stupid of Chrysler to make the any of the SB brackets different
 
locumob , aider1976 just contacted me about the car , guess you got to talk about it for her to get some interest . so she might be dive'n down under driven in her future or some great parts . still its a wait and see . aider's coming to pomona for that meet . i'm a stones through from there , @ 400 miles to sunny sfba .
 
locumob , aider1976 just contacted me about the car , guess you got to talk about it for her to get some interest . so she might be dive'n down under driven in her future or some great parts . still its a wait and see . aider's coming to pomona for that meet . i'm a stones through from there , @ 400 miles to sunny sfba .
I know Aidan1976. He's a good man. Financially very honest. You'll like him.
 
Motor Mount Bracket Clean Up
LS Bracket after I tried to remove the motor mount in a vise
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After wire wheel and 240 grit sandpaper. More rust on Left side mount.
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Grey Primer, 2 coats, both sides
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Red Devil Metallic Finish, 2 costs, both sides (Why not black? Fury isn't factory original and silver shows up better in pictures)
360: LS is curved on sides, RS is straight on both sides, but both mount behind block lugs.
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Bolts, nuts and washers: wire wheel, tap & die
What do you do in between coats of paint? Clean 46 years of rust and oil off engine mount bolts, nuts, and washers
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Throw 2 bolts and 2 nuts into the recycling can because rust and thread damage are just too much. Then scrounge bolt boxes and spare parts for matches and clean those. BTW, you need a good radio station while doing this. Very dull stuff. I once watched a master engine builder doing a video on rebuilding a 440. He looked at the camera and said, "If you don't like cleaning, you better get another hobby." Then he went back work.
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Motor Mount Install
Jack and wood block under engine oil pan: Room to Move
RS
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LS
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Install motor mounts on brackets @ 75'lbs in a vise. Mount to bracket stud is completely inaccessible, once bracket installed. Wood block kept motor mount aligned with bracket.
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LS from Rear: bolts installed at 55"lbs. Cleaned up bolts make install much easier than removal.
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RS from front
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Another view
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Next job is to drop the center link and drop the oil pan. We'll see whether pieces of valve seal are clogging the pickup screen.
 
Hope will all be Mopar blue one day. Car has taken much more time than expected. Approx 600 miles driven in 2018. Are man hours of repair work more or less than 600?
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Anyway, 1972 360 Oil Pan needs to come down because of potential valve seal debris
Center Link has to be removed 1st. LS
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RS
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Removed cotter pins and castle nuts. Pickle Fork & Sledge to knock center link off pitman, idler, and inner Tie Rod Ends
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Idler & ITRE. Ugh, seen this view before
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Pitman & ITRE. This view's new
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1/2" short socket, swivel, 10" extension, and 3/8 air ratchet made short work of the oil pan bolts with engine lifted a little above normal position. View of 360 V8 pickup and oil pump with pan down
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Most important discovery of the day: new double roller timing chain. Yes!
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Close up
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Oil Pan (continued)
Block: RS motor mount & dipstick
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LS motor mount. #1 connecting rod showing
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Block oil pan rail, RS
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Block oil pan rail, LS
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1972 360 V8 Oil Pan
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Wiped with rag. Almost no debris.
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Where were all the broken valve seals? In the oil pickup below the screen. Look what I scraped out of the pickup with a screwdriver and a piece of bent coat hanger:
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Not sure what the silver pieces are. Feel like very flexible plastic. Definitely not metal or rubber.
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Oil pump is going to have to come down to remove & fully clean out the pickup
 
Yea on my 318 that I dissected, I just pried up the rolled seam around the plate. Of course I wasn't going to re-use it as the engine was going in the scrap pile. I found a lot more in it that didn't shake out so much that when I did a bunch of Ford cabs with a similar problem I just put a new pickup tube on the engine. Learned that lesson, but back then 302 pickup tubes were cheap right from the dealership, a lot less than the 1/2 to 1 hour labor cleaning out the crap.
 
I'm going to try shaking it out. Will see how that goes. Otherwise order new pickup.

Started on pan cleanup. Rags, chemicals, and steel scrub pads
Not perfect, but the bulk of the grease is off it now
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With grease embedded in rust, had to resort to 60 grit sandpaper
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Hope to detail it tomorrow and get a coat of primer on it
 
A bit of advice, I'd get rid of this hose, there is a reason as to why the line is all metal.

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Oil Pan Paint
Advance Auto did not have Chrysler engine blue, so I tried the lightest shade of Ford engine blue. Still too dark
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At least it's underneath. One day, after I do the 440 in convertible, I'll pull this 360 engine and detail it correctly.
 
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