1972 Fury III 360 101498 miles

@Wollfen Hey Gary, Since @Moseman needs the panel immediately to do his stroker conversion, and I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet, it's OK with me if you give Moseman 1st choice on the panel. I've started looking for a hidden headlight set up. Would be nice to do the panel and grill at same time. Tried Troy, the guy in CA, but he's not responding to my email or call. Probably sold his HHL grill set up already. Cheers! Ben
 
Thanks @Badvert65. Your generosity helped resolve another problem in my quest to take my 1972 Fury from a car that sat on the sidelines to a real reliable driver. Most appreciated! If you're ever in Richmond VA area, I'd be glad to meet up. I'm an Absolut vodka man, but whatever you're drinking, I'll buy the first round.

BTW, I bought a 2nd terminal adapter from you today, so that I can convert my 1970 Fury convertible. What c-body cars do you have? Any 72-73 c-parts cars in your area? Fuselage c-parts cars? Thanks again and TGIF! Ben

A fast-starting great-driving Happy Fury, Belvidere IL factory made in USA
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Wife's Dodge Nitro in background. Made in Toledo Ohio. Mopar all the way!
 
@Wollfen Hey Gary, Since @Moseman needs the panel immediately to do his stroker conversion, and I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet, it's OK with me if you give Moseman 1st choice on the panel. I've started looking for a hidden headlight set up. Would be nice to do the panel and grill at same time. Tried Troy, the guy in CA, but he's not responding to my email or call. Probably sold his HHL grill set up already. Cheers! Ben
Good luck Ben, the fold away headlights will certainly set the car off. Here is a pic of the radiator support, it is solid. I will take the hood release bracketry off before it goes, @Moseman can let me know if he wants it say, $75 plus shipping. Also i should have a spare battery tray support bracket if you are interested?

radiator support3.jpg
 
Good luck Ben, the fold away headlights will certainly set the car off. Here is a pic of the radiator support, it is solid. I will take the hood release bracketry off before it goes, @Moseman can let me know if he wants it say, $75 plus shipping. Also i should have a spare battery tray support bracket if you are interested?

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I would be interested in the radiator support if not taken if it is for 1972 fury
 
Good luck Ben, the fold away headlights will certainly set the car off. Here is a pic of the radiator support, it is solid. I will take the hood release bracketry off before it goes, @Moseman can let me know if he wants it say, $75 plus shipping. Also i should have a spare battery tray support bracket if you are interested?
View attachment 245825
Hey Gary. Thanks for the pics! Appreciate you looking. $75 is a fair price. I'm not sure if @Moseman reads this thread. Maybe send him a PM.

On the battery support bracket, my car has one. I spoke with Mario @MBar on the phone for about an hour. Good guy. He said he didn't have one for his 72 Fury sedan. That's what I was talking about when I posted the pics he sent. I bet he would be interested and grateful if you offered it to him.

Right now, the biggest issue with my 72 Fury is no heater blower fan. Voltage is 11.7 both sides of the fuse, but input voltage 3.98 at the blower motor resistor, fan on high. I need to find that voltage drop. Also, I need to wire a jumper off battery power to the output wire at the resistor and make sure the blower operates. Without heat, it's real cold driving this time of year. I'm like you. I do not like being cold.

At least I'm not as cold as this guy
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Hey Gary. Thanks for the pics! Appreciate you looking. $75 is a fair price. I'm not sure if @Moseman reads this thread. Maybe send him a PM.

On the battery support bracket, my car has one. I spoke with Mario @MBar on the phone for about an hour. Good guy. He said he didn't have one for his 72 Fury sedan. That's what I was talking about when I posted the pics he sent. I bet he would be interested and grateful if you offered it to him.

Right now, the biggest issue with my 72 Fury is no heater blower fan. Voltage is 11.7 both sides of the fuse, but input voltage 3.98 at the blower motor resistor, fan on high. I need to find that voltage drop. Also, I need to wire a jumper off battery power to the output wire at the resistor and make sure the blower operates. Without heat, it's real cold driving this time of year. I'm like you. I do not like being cold.

At least I'm not as cold as this guy
View attachment 246036
Thanks, I will PM Wolfen!
 
Heater Blower Motor Fan, now operating, below is diagnosis and temp fix until I pull the dash and go thru the wiring.
· Black power wire to fan switch: I disconnected the black/white wire below the fan switch. With ignition key in on position, the wire has 11.99 V.
· Black/White power wire test: ran jumper from B/W power wire to dark green output wire at blower motor resistor. Blower motor fan did not operate. Tried paperclips inserted into both spades to get a better connection and reattached jumper wire, but blower motor fan still did not operate. Reconnect black power wires under heater blower fan switch.
· Fan Switch test: with ignition key in on position and fan switch on high, disconnect 3 wire connector at blower motor resistor. The light green wire is for highest fan speed. Found 11.99 V, with Fluke meter grounded to parking brake release under dash. Inserted paperclips at the spade for the light green wire for input power and another paperclip at the dark green output power wire spade. Jumped both wires, but again the blower motor fan did not operate.
· Blower motor test: ran the black jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the dark green output wire at blower motor resistor. Blower motor operated at high speed.
· Blower motor ground: remove nut at windshield wiper motor stud, ½ long socket, 12 inch extension, 3/8 ratchet. Examine ring terminal for black blower motor ground wire. Looked clean and serviceable. Reinstalled ring terminal and nut. Found .5 ohms resistance from ring terminal to negative battery terminal.
· Conclusion: there is no resistance in the system to lower voltage, but the power input wire to the heater blower fan switch must not be carrying enough amps to operate the blower motor fan.
· Re-wire: cut black/white wire below heater blower fan switch, leaving 3 inches of wire and the Spade. Wrap black electrical tape around the end of the black/white wire, because it still has voltage. Heater has 20-amp fuse. With 20-amp fuse installed at auxiliary fuse box, ran 12 gage red wire from fuse box along wiring harness over steering column and crimped on small length of black/white wire with original spade connector, using blue butt connector. Connect the spade connector to the female spade connector below the heater blower fan switch.
· Blower motor: with wires reconnected at blower motor resistor and ignition key in on position, fan now operates in all positions. On heat, air is blowing out of the 2 small openings above the trans hump.
· Test start, started on the 2nd try after 4 pedal pumps. Ran well. Ready to drive to work tomorrow. Hope I won't freeze like last time.
 
Battery Tray
New tray is a match.
Old tray: rust holes
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Old beside new
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Stopped to paint support strut from radiator support panel. It's removed and in garage with 2 coats of Krylon gloss black.
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Battery tray was after work.
Drove 72 Fury III to work, 34 miles one-way
Speedometer noise:
Drive to work: Temperature was 31°F. Speedometer made a serious rattle for the first 10 to 15 minutes of driving. Speedometer needle was bouncing side to side, at a range of about 10 to 15 mph. After that, the rattle went away, and then returned. This process repeated itself several times, until the rattle was gone after about 20 minutes
Drive home: temperature above freezing, no noise from speedometer?
Noise maker
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Happy Fury in afternoon, much nicer with working heat.
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Battery Tray, Install
Support strut, after clean and coat with Krylon black
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Support strut installed on radiator support panel
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Battery Tray, new: 5/16 drill bit to slot both radiator support panel bolt holes toward radiator. I had to do this because the mounting bracket for my Champion aluminum radiator protrudes farther toward the outside of the car than the stock radiator bracket, so the new battery tray needed to mount slightly to the left of where it normally mounts. It's only about 1/4" off. NBD to slot the 2 holes. Rear bolt holes on tray lined up with strut and wheel well just fine. Now I have 4 mounting bolts instead of 2
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Battery reinstalled.
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Put a Want forum request for hidden headlight grill. We'll see if I get any offers.
 
New Speedometer Cable, NAPA Balkamp 615-1659. $21.05 including tax. In stock at local warehouse.
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Cable & Ends
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Speedo fitting
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Trans Fitting
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Differences from original: NAPA cable is 7" longer and does not have hex fitting to mount at trans
Original
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New cable at trans
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Routing clips under driver floor pan keep cable away from torsion bar and exhaust.
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Hard to get pic of firewall opening under booster. Bend that takes up extra 7 inches.
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Slotted firewall grommet to get it over new cable. Begin install engine side, pull passenger side thru with needle nose pliers
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Install new cable under dash is a right arm only job, blind, while lying under dash. Cable end feeds thru a hole in a metal panel above steering column and into a conical fitting at rear of speedometer. Install at speedo required several attempts and several cuss words. Need to replace leaking fuel pump before test drive, gas leak. Hope new cable works!
 
Picking up my fuel pump tomorrow.
Paid $20 for a used right front turn signal lens.
Old lens with housing. Someone did not know how to remove a lens, 2 phillips head screws. Both sides are like this. Big chip at flange. Someone should not be allowed to own Mopar, but relegated to GM.
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Used lens after cleanup with Meguiars Plastic-X
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It mounted on the stock gasket just fine.
Purchased Left Side NOS for $32. Waiting for deliver.
 
Nice job! How did you repair the chip?
I didn't. I paid $20 for another lens that wasn't chipped. The lens were chipped when I got the car.

Test Drive: 47°F, new fuel pump installed, speedometer worked OK. Steady needle and no noise. NAPA speedo cable seems an affordable solution at $19.99.
Won't bore you with particulars on fuel pump. Carquest model 360592. It's like $20 in price. Hope it lasts.
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Subfreezing Test
· I drove to work this morning. The temperature was 30°F. Old cable made noise below freezing so this is the real test.
· Speedometer Cable: the new cable made no noise. It was great not to hear grinding from my speedometer or see crazy bouncing needle.
· Speedometer needle bounces a little on hard acceleration. It didn’t just go straight up the dial, but this problem is minimal.
· Once the car reaches cruising speed, the needle is steady and does not fluctuate.
· My drive to work is 68 miles round-trip. In a 70 mph zone, I cruised with traffic at 80 mph. The 72 Fury was a blast to drive. The steering is not loose, so the car didn’t float all over the road, but stayed in lane.
· At one point traffic got up to 85 mph, but my 72 Fury 360/727 had no problem keeping up. Speedometer needle held steady at 85 mph. High gear 8.25 rear. Don't know ratio.
Overall, at $21.05 including tax, Napa 615 – 1659 is a valid solution to the problem.
FURY AT WORK
What a pleasure it is to drive that car after a year of working on it!
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Subfreezing Test
· I drove to work this morning. The temperature was 30°F. Old cable made noise below freezing so this is the real test.
· Speedometer Cable: the new cable made no noise. It was great not to hear grinding from my speedometer or see crazy bouncing needle.
· Speedometer needle bounces a little on hard acceleration. It didn’t just go straight up the dial, but this problem is minimal.
· Once the car reaches cruising speed, the needle is steady and does not fluctuate.
· My drive to work is 68 miles round-trip. In a 70 mph zone, I cruised with traffic at 80 mph. The 72 Fury was a blast to drive. The steering is not loose, so the car didn’t float all over the road, but stayed in lane.
· At one point traffic got up to 85 mph, but my 72 Fury 360/727 had no problem keeping up. Speedometer needle held steady at 85 mph. High gear 8.25 rear. Don't know ratio.
Overall, at $21.05 including tax, Napa 615 – 1659 is a valid solution to the problem.
FURY AT WORK
What a pleasure it is to drive that car after a year of working on it!
View attachment 251076
Nothing like cruising on the highway in a old C body! Glad to see all your hard work pay off and you are enjoying your car. That's how its supposed to be!

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Nothing like cruising on the highway in a old C body! Glad to see all your hard work pay off and you are enjoying your car. That's how its supposed to be!
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Thanks Wyatt. Makes me not want to take it off the road for the next project, but I'm a project nut, so hidden headlights are going on the car sometime. Dash needs to be pulled for new dash pad & dash shell repaint. Would like to replace my 8.25 rear with 8.75 sometime. So it goes.

Today
Received NOS LF turn signal lens in mail. $32 including ship from ebay. Sweet. Just fun to hold an NOS part.
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Lens had a long journey. With origin in Dallas, ebay seller in Washington state, and me in Virginia, this lens has traveled over 5000 miles in 37 years to reach it's intended destination: a 1972 Plymouth Fury.
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Old turn signal lens
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Biggest crack
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Big chip from idiot previous owner armed with flat blade screwdriver
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NOS installed
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Right side, used but cleaned up
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I posted this in interior forum. Copied here.
· The dash pad in my 1972 Fury is pretty ugly. It’s got big cracks in the pad material and needs to be recovered. I have not pulled the dash pad off the dash shell to inspect it closely, so this is a hypothetical question:

· If I did decide to replace the dash pad for whatever reason, would the dash pad from a 1972 Dodge Polara/Monaco be the same? In other words, are the 2 Dash pads interchangeable? What other years are interchangeable with 1972 Fury dash pad?

· The Dodge and Plymouth dash shells look the same to me. The Chrysler dash shell does look different.

· Please note: this is not a want ad. This question has to do with, when I get to pulling my dash apart, what are my options.

· As always, thanks for your help. FCBO is a great source for information. It’s a privilege to be a member here. Ben
My 1972 Fury dash, stupid looking silver letters are now removed
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1972 Polara Dash (from internet)
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1972 Polara from FCBO for sale
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1972 Chrysler Newport (from internet)
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1971-1972 New Yorker (From internet)
1972-new-yorker-dash-jpg.jpg
 
I posted this in interior forum. Copied here.
· The dash pad in my 1972 Fury is pretty ugly. It’s got big cracks in the pad material and needs to be recovered. I have not pulled the dash pad off the dash shell to inspect it closely, so this is a hypothetical question:

· If I did decide to replace the dash pad for whatever reason, would the dash pad from a 1972 Dodge Polara/Monaco be the same? In other words, are the 2 Dash pads interchangeable? What other years are interchangeable with 1972 Fury dash pad?

· The Dodge and Plymouth dash shells look the same to me. The Chrysler dash shell does look different.

· Please note: this is not a want ad. This question has to do with, when I get to pulling my dash apart, what are my options.

· As always, thanks for your help. FCBO is a great source for information. It’s a privilege to be a member here. Ben
My 1972 Fury dash, stupid looking silver letters are now removed
View attachment 251733
1972 Polara Dash (from internet)
View attachment 251734
1972 Polara from FCBO for saleView attachment 251735

1972 Chrysler Newport (from internet)
View attachment 251736
1971-1972 New Yorker (From internet)
View attachment 251737

If not a Fury dash, it could be from a Polara/Monaco. I recommend Murray Park (cbodies.com), he at least had a correct dash pad available some time ago.
 
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