1972 Fury III 360 101498 miles

[1970FuryConv]

Axle Shaft , LS. Bearing previously greased. Took shaft out of the 2 old pillow cases I had wrapped around it. Removed plastic bag around studs, flanges, and bearing. Wipe bearing flange with rag.

LS, non-adjustable bearing

Permatex Ultra Grey RTV on inside of bearing flange. I had previously wire wheel cleaned 5 NY 9/16 nuts.

Axle housing: lube axle shaft oil seals and bearing race mounting area with light coat of wheel bearing grease.
Axle Shaft: took a few taps with hammer and punch, but LS shaft flange seated OK., 9/16 ls, 10 ext, 3/8 SR. Tighten nuts to snug and wait for an hour to torque. Permatex requires that time to set up. Axle Shaft Nuts: 35-35 foot-pounds, 9/16 ls, 10 ext, 3/8 TW

LS Drum, we're getting closer. Gotta fight impulse to rush things.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Axle Shaft, RS: same as LS, except while torquing, turn adjuster clockwise to eliminate all play in-and-out in the axle shaft. Then back off adjuster (turn counter-clockwise) in small increments until smallest amount of play present. Try torque nuts. 1st few tries, play will go away. Keep repeating process until very small amount of play still present after torque at 35’lbs.

Adjuster

Axle Shaft, RS installed. Can see bottom of adjuster clamp

Adjuster & Clamp close up. Mounting nut has built in washer.

RS Drum

Rear View

 

[1970FuryConv]

90? Ugh, I'm tired for you! I've been busy working at work, not just relaxing, but I've been following your refreshing, looks good!

How thick is the Por-15? On my phone with the small pictures, it looks kinda heavy, or thick. Maybe just the texture of it?

I get to replace my springs in the Polara 500 soon, I'll have to paint my axle, as it has some funky green on the back of it. I don't know if I'll be as detailed as you.

One thing I like about your repairs, is the way you approach them, one thing at a time. I'm usually all over the place doing this, then think of that, and also go off and do the other, I could use a project manager.

HAHA. Stephen King would be proud. The Christine approach.

 

[1970FuryConv]

it's not the diff. install olympics. no one got hurt. you took the time to do it right. everything's installed and torqued correctly so nothing will loosen or snap off while the vehicle's being operated. job well done. edit: for safety, the nuts on the u-bolts should be re-torqued after the vehicle is driven. my conscience wouldn't let that go unsaid.

Agree it's not the Olympics, except maybe a marathon.
Thanks for the u-bolt reminder!

 

[73Coupe]

Did the bearings have some "press" in them to get into the axle housing?

I took mine out last summer and didn't need an axle puller to remove. They just slid out...humph...

 

[1970FuryConv]

Did the bearings have some "press" in them to get into the axle housing?
I took mine out last summer and didn't need an axle puller to remove. They just slid out...humph...

They just slid in with the shaft. I did not replace my bearings, I greased them thoroughly. They didn't grind on the race when I turned them. I didn't see any metal flakes when old grease came out, so I am gambling that the original tapered roller bearings are OK.
The only thing that was troublesome is that the 5 mounting studs spread slightly to the outside, so getting the metal gasket, brake backing plate and axle bearing flange over them was tricky.
Does your car have the 8.75?

REPLACING BEARINGS: As you know, and for anyone else reading, old bearings need to be cold pressed off the shaft, and new bearings need to be cold pressed onto the axle shaft. If someone uses a torch to remove the old bearings or heats the shaft during installing the new, that can undermine the integrity of the shaft.

 

[1970FuryConv]

90? Ugh, I'm tired for you! I've been busy working at work, not just relaxing, but I've been following your refreshing, looks good!
How thick is the Por-15? On my phone with the small pictures, it looks kinda heavy, or thick. Maybe just the texture of it?
I get to replace my springs in the Polara 500 soon, I'll have to paint my axle, as it has some funky green on the back of it. I don't know if I'll be as detailed as you.
One thing I like about your repairs, is the way you approach them, one thing at a time. I'm usually all over the place doing this, then think of that, and also go off and do the other, I could use a project manager.

Yeah I was tired last light. I work too. Shift starts in about 5 minutes.

POR 15 is a light paint. It goes on thin and drips easily. The directions are to wait 2 hours or more between coats. I have to watch between coats and brush away any drips, to keep the paint even. I put 3 coats on the axle. I think it’s just a good quality paint, that looks thick after it is applied.

One thing I did learn is that the paint tears up those one-coat chip brushes from Lowe’s Hardware, that cost $.99. Oddly enough, I went by Family Dollar, and bought a much better assortment of 5 brushes for $4.25. They were in different sizes from 1 inch to 3 inch. I used them for one coat each, and the brushes didn’t fall apart. They didn’t shed bristles in the paint.

Definitely worth the effort to clean and paint the axle. Mine was so greasy that chunks of grease fell off when I worked around it. You'll be happy you painted the axle on your Polara 500. I spent $80 for 1 quart and 1 pint of POR-15. Was worth it to me. Eastwood has some good paints too by rep, but I've never used them.

 

[Wollfen]

Ben did you replace the inner seals in the axle housing that keeps the differential oil out of your axle bearing grease?

 

[rags]

when they first tried por-15 where i work, someone poured some in a styrofoam cup. found out it eats styrofoam. dumped out onto a drive on lift ramp. they tried wiping it off with a pig mat. two years later there's still por-15, with tufts of pig mat imbedded in it, on an area of the lift that gets driven over a half dozen times a day.

 

[1970FuryConv]

when they first tried por-15 where i work, someone poured some in a styrofoam cup. found out it eats styrofoam. dumped out onto a drive on lift ramp. they tried wiping it off with a pig mat. two years later there's still por-15, with tufts of pig mat imbedded in it, on an area of the lift that gets driven over a half dozen times a day.

It's tough stuff. If you clean off all the loose rust and get down near bare metal, it adheres and encapsulates well, with durability. Harder to apply to bare metal. Takes a couple of coats to get it to cover, but once you have that it does great with bare metal too.
OTOH, if you leave too thick a layer of rust, it will flake off.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Ben did you replace the inner seals in the axle housing that keeps the differential oil out of your axle bearing grease?

I didn't, the Mopar seals looked and felt brand new, nice and stiff, but still pliable, so I just left them in place and put wheel bearing grease on the rubber portion.
We'll have to see what happens.

 

[1970FuryConv]

DRIVESHAFT
Rear U-Joint Remove
· 1st Cap Remove:Vise Set Up: 1 1/8" short socket around cap, ¾ nut against opposite cap

· Close Vise: 4 light Hammer strikes on forward vise arm, dislodge cap. After cap moves slightly inward, 2 FBSD to remove C-Clip on ¾ nut side. Flip driveshaft 180° so c-clip removed side facing 1 1/8 socket. ¾ nut side to move 2nd cap slightly inward and remove 2nd C-clip. No hammering. Also, 5/16 ls, ¼ R to remove grease fitting. Otherwise, it blocks movement of u-joint cross.

· Continue to tighten vise until 1st cap moves into 1 1/8” socket. Open vise & Remove 1st cap from driveshaft yoke

· 2nd Cap Remove: rotate driveshaft 180° so that 2nd cap faces 1 1/8 ss, ¾ nut on opposite end of U-joint cross. Repeat above. Remove cap and u-joint cross

· Sand & grease: 240 grit sand paper to sand driveshaft-yoke u-joint cap mtg areas smooth. Grease

Conversion U-Joint Neapco 2-0527
· Driveshaft Yoke: u-joint 2 1/8” inner lock to inner lock: Neapco spec 1.078” smaller diameter cap
· Pinion Yoke: u-joint 2 5/8” inner lock to inner lock, larger diameter cap, Neapco 1.126”
IOW: 8.75 set up for larger width Mopar u-joint. 8.25 set up for smaller width Mopar u-joint. (There was nothing wrong with old u-joint. It just didn't fit 8.75 pinion yoke)

Made in USA

· Remove caps from new U-Joint. Pack caps wheel bearing grease, coating around inside of cap roller bearings.

· Place narrow width side Neapco U-Joint 2-0527 in center of driveshaft yoke and finger press smaller diameter cap, (2 1/8” inner lock side) into driveshaft yoke. Gently push cap into end of cross. I did grease fitting side 1st. While holding cross against cap, vise to press cap in place, with 1 1/8 socket on other side. Stop cap press as soon as c-clip can be installed. Install c-clip

· Install grease fitting on cap just pressed in, 5/16 ls, ¼ R.

· Repeat press for 2nd Cap. Had to use ¾ nut and 4 light hammer strikes to get 2nd cap to seat enough to install c-clip

· Install c-clips on pinion yoke side of u-joint

 

[1970FuryConv]

Driveshaft Installed

Brakes: Rear Hose Untwist & Bleed at both Wheel Cylinders

· Brake Line at Front of Rear Hose: remove u-clip, small NN vise grips

· 3/8 line wrench on hose, 5/8 line wrench on line. WD40 to break hose loose. Got an extra half turn of tightness and untwisted the hose.

· Push hose back into bracket. U-clip, install

· Bleed LS & the RS: note 9 pedal pushes with wheel cylinder valve open a quarter turn will nearly empty rear brake reservoir at master cylinder. I stopped and refilled at 6.

Untwisted

U-Bolt Threads, POR-15, 2 coats, rust prevent

KYB KG5512 Shocks: a problem

Rear Shocks
· Shocks: upper mount: bolt head forward, 19mm ss, 1 & 3 ext, ½ BB, nut ¾ ss, ½ R, ½ TW @ 70’lbs.
· Shocks: lower mounts, ream front washers, drill. Install front washer, shock, rear washer, nut, ¾ ss, ½ R & TW @ 50’lbs.

Right side, jack under spring to install. Shock at full extend is 2-3" to short to reach mount.

Rear view

The Problem
· Tires, install: left side tire installed normally. Could not install right side tire because of interference from the rear wheel well.
· Shock Absorber, right side: hydraulic jack under leaf spring. Three-quarter long socket, 6 inch extension, ½ ratchet to remove nut at lower bushing. Pull shock to rear, so it’s disengaged from its lower mount. Lower hydraulic jack so that leaf spring is at the bottom of its travel. Shock absorber is about 2 inches short of the bottom of the leaf Springs travel, as it was at 1st install.
· Tire, right rear: install, no problem
· Shock absorber, right rear: reinstall with hydraulic jack under leaf spring, ¾ long socket, 6 inch extension, ½ torque wrench a 50 foot-pounds. Remove hydraulic jack. With rear axle hanging free both shocks were 24 inches end to end.
Distance edge of bead seat upper center wheel well lip, 3/16" shorter on RS.
Rock Auto may get these shocks back, although they ride really well.

 

[1970FuryConv]

GOOD NEWS
· Test drive, 12pm: no clunks when shifting into gear, including reverse. No noise at 70 mph on highway or any other speed between zero and 70 mph. I yelled OWWWOOOO & AWLRIGHT several times and drove home after 5-mile 360 loop.
All you can see from below

Stance (rear slightly raised by shocks?)

Front (nothing changed, but it's still cool looking)

A Welcome Sight

@LocuMob, you might not say it looks like a different car, but it makes less noise and it's much better looking underneath. Also, I don't get greased by working near the rear axle. Hope you get some encouragement out of this.
Thanks @Aidan1976 for your help with which axle works. Very appreciated!
@rags and others, thanks for your comments. Can never stop learning.
Really nice how 8.25 brakes, u-bolts, axle spring mounts transfer directly from 8.25 to 8.75
Ride to work is 67 miles round trip. I'll provide a full report middle of next week. Time to start just driving and enjoying.

 

[LocuMob]

you might not say it looks like a different car, but it makes less noise and it's much better looking underneath. Also, I don't get greased by working near the rear axle.

No, it doesn't make it look any different, but as you've said, it sure can make a difference!

I'm encouraged by the fact I have to finish this shift, and another twelve hour shift tomorrow, and then I have eleven days off to work on my cars! Four days to get my Monaco running correctly, and get it to the big show up here. Then it's whatever else comes next, probably my '67 Dart, then one of the Polaras. And Volo is less than a month away, my only longer distance trip this year. I've been patiently waiting til I have some time, and living vicariously through you guys and your builds until then.


So, what's next?

 

[1970FuryConv]

No, it doesn't make it look any different, but as you've said, it sure can make a difference!
I'm encouraged by the fact I have to finish this shift, and another twelve hour shift tomorrow, and then I have eleven days off to work on my cars! Four days to get my Monaco running correctly, and get it to the big show up here. Then it's whatever else comes next, probably my '67 Dart, then one of the Polaras. And Volo is less than a month away, my only longer distance trip this year. I've been patiently waiting til I have some time, and living vicariously through you guys and your builds until then.
So, what's next?

Cool that you finally got some time off. Bout time!
What's next: My 1970 Fury Conv is showing an oil pressure warning light at idle. 318 worn out. Plan is to do the 440 conversion in the later half of the year. Had planned to do it in 2015, but had a bad attack of arthritis, so everything has just been sitting. With arthritis, been using natural tinctures, between that and learning how to deal with it, I think I'm ready to shift focus and start working on the convertible. Too bad though. Really wanted to take my family for rides in it this summer.
1972 Fury Coupe is running great. Needs a rear bumper rechrome, but that's a lower priority that the convertible's engine. I'm just going to drive it and enjoy it for the rest of the year. I'm just glad the miracle axle worked out. 22 years sitting on the ground on the side of a hill under a rotting 72 NY and nothing wrong with it, no internal rust of any kind. I mean: What's the chance of that?
Camera is level

 

[The Moffittman]

To be clear (as I’m about to do this swap into a ‘73 Fury) you didn’t have to shorten the driveshaft at all?

 

[1970FuryConv]

To be clear (as I’m about to do this swap into a ‘73 Fury) you didn’t have to shorten the driveshaft at all?

No, I did not change the driveshaft in any way. 727 driveshafts for 8.25 and 8.75 rears are exact same length. I believe this is also true for 904 driveshafts with 8.25 and 8.75 rears.

Best of luck! 8.75 was a tremendous upgrade for my car. My only problem is that I'm trying to get Rock Auto to take back the KYB KG 5512 shocks. They were too short for tire install. So far, Rock Auto won't take them back because I installed them. I'm arguing for a catalog error. It's the little **** that gets you. Hope they change their mind.

 

[The Moffittman]

I'm trying to get Rock Auto to take back the KYB KG 5512 shocks. They were too short for tire install. So far, Rock Auto won't take them back because I installed them. I'm arguing for a catalog error. It's the little **** that gets you. Hope they change their mind.

I went through it with them once because they sent me a bogus bearing for a Ford Exploder (customer car). It clicked upon proper install straight out of the box. They listed it for both 2wd and 4wd application, then tried to throw it back on me because I didn’t use the three unmarked (unrated) bolts that came with it, and there was no evidence of a 4wd hub nut and washer being torqued against the outside. It was a 2wd truck, and I’d rather reuse factory rated hardware than some cheesedick alloy that was smelted in a cooking pot in China. Logic prevailed, and they paid it back. Fight the good fight.

 

[The Moffittman]

To be fair, I don’t think any of the shocks I’ve put on the rear of my C Bodies have extended to full droop.