1972 Fury III 360 101498 miles

[1970FuryConv]

PINION YOKE OIL SEAL
SKF 18708

* Flange of oil seal is metal and sticks out beyond the edge of the axle housing. Pin punch and BFH to bend old oil seal’s flange away from the front of the differential carrier. Remove old oil seal with vise grips.

Rear view

New oil seal: 60 grit sandpaper on outer edge of carrier to remove surface rust from oil seal mounting hole. Only needed to use the sandpaper on the outer edge; the inner portion was flat and smooth and rust free, and I didn’t want to touch it. Carefully cleaned out any and all debris so nothing could damage the front pinion bearing. Q-tips in oil passage below front pinion bearing. Light coat of wheel bearing grease on inner portion of seal mounting area and on rubber oil seal itself.

· Old coffee cup and taps with big hammer to install new seal. I figured what the heck, if the cup broke, it had a monogram of a company that I used to work for and don’t have any relationship with now so who gives a damn. Use open end of cup on metal flange of oil seal. Stop tapping when metal flange is flush with front of differential carrier. (also used cup for small paint jobs)

 

[rags]

valve stem tool for the heli-coil was about a fantastic idea! i had always used the correct size bolt with the tip cut to drive the coil, but i like this idea better. put rtv on the splines in the yoke to seal seal the splines?

 

[1970FuryConv]

valve stem tool for the heli-coil was about a fantastic idea! i had always used the correct size bolt with the tip cut to drive the coil, but i like this idea better. put rtv on the splines in the yoke to seal seal the splines?

I haven't installed the pinion yoke because I was painting it, but I don't use RTV on the splines. I thought that was supposed to be a tight machined fit, achieved as the pinion yoke nut/washer effectively presses the pinion yoke into position. There was no rust on the splines when I removed the pinion yoke, and that's after sitting 20 years in a junkyard. Have you seen damage that RTV would have prevented?

Past 2 days were work days, but I did accomplish a few things
· Pinion Yoke and Pinion Bumper: small artists paint brush to paint pinion yoke, pinion bumper, U joint straps, and bolt heads for u-joints. 3 coats, POR – 15 Gloss Black. Also painted 2 places on the axle housing that were sitting on 2 jackstands.

· Brass Brake Hose and Brake Line Junction: finish cleaning on wire wheel. Use air gun to blowout passages and assure not clogged. Mount on axle, adjustable wrench on hollow air vent bolt.
Before

After

Bought a cool old HD Vise, $100. Look at the size compared to my broke Columbian!
No more threaded rod and needing one hand to hold the part, one hand to hold wrench on a nut, one hand to turn socket and ratchet on the other nut. Not having 3 hands, I did a lot of cursing and eventually gave in and asked for help. Not any more!

1972 Fury Coupe, on 4 jackstands and waiting

 

[bollotti]

I am seeing that vice painted gloss black in the near future....

 

[rags]

rtv wouldn't prevent damage. just keeps gear oil from seeping past the splines. common practice. takes 30 secs. and might prevent a problem. nice WWII vise. all the vise you'll ever need.

 

[1970FuryConv]

rtv wouldn't prevent damage. just keeps gear oil from seeping past the splines. common practice. takes 30 secs. and might prevent a problem. nice WWII vise. all the vise you'll ever need.

RTV, Understood, Thanks
How do you know the vise is WWII?

 

[rags]

How do you know the vise is WWII?

don't. just at first sight the word "battleship" came to mind. no doubt it was part of the war effort in some way though. for rtv, i use motorcraft ta-31. commercial grade stuff vs consumer grade. quarters on that fury look like they were designed for tubs and slicks.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Involuntary Break in Axle Work
My wife is from Southfield, Michigan. She had to fly out last Saturday to check on her Dad. She had been complaining of allergies. I made the mistake of kissing her goodbye. Allergies were really a virus. Mild for her, but kept me home from work for 2 days and shut me down in the garage for 5 days. That virus ****** me up.
Old Business
Pinion Yoke Thread Repair
Thread insert, remove, awl and NN pliers

Right bolt hole: tried to take pic showing threads missing at bottom. This bunged 2 u-jt bolts. Thread inserts too narrow at bottom when fully installed.

Helicoil oversize bottoming tap (top tap in pic), gave 2 additional 360° thread turns

Threaded to bottom

Tire valve installer, install 1/4x28 thread insert to below level of u-jt mtg flange. What's tricky is the 1/2 inch length on the package is installed height. Insert is actually shorter before install. I forgot all this and based on insert length on the bench and measuring into the bolt hole, thought I had enough threads to accommodate the insert.

Test with u-jt strap, install at 170”lbs, no damage to bottom of bolt. Did not need extra washer

 

[1970FuryConv]

Old Business Continued
Pinion Yoke: install
Wheel Brg Grease: splines and smooth surface that turns within oil seal, also front portion of pinion shaft splines.
Yoke does not slide on pinion shaft splines. Hammer & 2x4 to tap pinion yoke about half way onto shaft, enough where pinion yoke nut could engage 3 turns. Press on with pipe wrench to hold yoke

Pinion yoke nut, 1 ¼” ss, 3 ext, ½ R. Turn until pinion yoke mostly installed on shaft. Remove pinion yoke nut.
Add Belleville washer, install with convex side forward.

Install Washer with Pinion yoke at this depth on splined pinion shaft.

Belleville washer, install with convex side forward. Pinion yoke nut, reinstall. Turn nut until pinion yoke fully seated on pinion shaft splines.
Before

After

Final tighten: 1 ¼” ss, 3 ext, Armstrong ½” TW @ 170-170’lbs.

Turning torque: 2” lbs, same as before remove. No variation in turning force thru 360°.

Pinion Snubber/Bumper

8.75 Rear, Waiting

 

[1970FuryConv]

New Business
Reuse 8.25 Rear Brakes on 8.75 rear
FYI: 8.25 Gear Ratio 2.71, 8.75 is 2.76

Driveshaft: turn to expose pin & bolt on diff. Trans in neutral
Diff Pin: remove bolt, ½ & 9/16 dbl wr. ½ wr to finish. Remove pin by reaching in front of diff and push pin to rear.

Held u-jt with pry bar

Pin and Bolt: Bolt goes thru hole in pin

No Pin: room to push axle shafts inward

C-clips drop down. Removed with magnet

Axle shafts can be removed

RS Brakes, no axle shaft

 

[1970FuryConv]

8.25 axle U-Bolts
Prep for remove
WD40
Right side before thread chase. Removal: Nuts will heat up and lock in place without thread cleanup

Thread chase, WD40, 1/2x20 NF, start side, 1” long socket, ½-3/8 adapter, 3/8 Air Ratchet
Start side first

After using start side up to bottom of nut, turn die over and run this side all the way to bottom of nut

RS threads clean

LS threads clean

 

[Aidan1976]

Excellent methodical work

 

[1970FuryConv]

Rear Brake Lines
Block pedal forward with 2x4, prevent emptying of master cylinder

RS fitting coming loose from wheel cylinder. 3/8 line wrench to rock fittings back and forth. Apply WD 40 intermittently. Fitting spun on brake line.

Extremely Greasy axle: usually unwelcome, but preserved brake lines

LS fitting also spun on brake line. Wow!

Clean LS vs Dirty RS

Cleaned with degreaser and wire wheel. Waiting for paint

 

[65sporty]

Helicoil oversize bottoming tap (top tap in pic), gave 2 additional 360° thread turns
View attachment 284803

Not highly recommended, but in a pinch when I really needed one I have ground the tip off of a tap to make a bottoming tap.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Not highly recommended, but in a pinch when I really needed one I have ground the tip off of a tap to make a bottoming tap.

Good to know. Bottoming tap was only $5.94 including ship on ebay. No hurry on axle swap, so I could wait.

HeliCoil 4FBB 1/4-28 STI Bottom Tap HSS Screw Thread Insert Repair NF | eBay

 

[1970FuryConv]

Rear Brakes: POR-15 paint
RS after remove from axle

LS

RS after wire wheels on drill

LS

RS POR-15 Gloss Black, 2 coats

LS (did touch up work on missed areas)

Drums

Rear brake Lines, also 2 coats POR-15

Rear Brake Hose: new a few months ago. Covered with grease. Picture after cleanup.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Rear U-Joint
Driveshaft: hold rear U-joint with prybar. 3/8 wrench and 7/16 wrench, double wrench to loosen each of the 4 U-joint strap bolts. 3/8 wrench to finish removing each bolt. Place pan under rear of transmission. Prybar to pry driveshaft forward. Place a rubber band (or tape) around rear U joint. Remove driveshaft from transmission and remove from below car.
8.25 Pinion Yoke: small u-joint, 2 1/8" inner lock to inner lock

My phone camera tried to darken the pic because of the white ruler. Sometimes I wish for stupid cameras again.

8.75 Pinion Yoke, large u-joint, 2 5/8" inner lock to inner lock

Need to install conversion u-joint on driveshaft. Thinking Neapco 2-0527, ebay. Saw some bad internet comments on Moog quality. 347 is Moog version. Unfortunately, if Moog is bad that means all the Federal Mogul versions are probably low quality. Also, interested in doing Spicer, but couldn't find Spicer 5-527x on ebay, Amazon, or Rock Auto.

Rear Shocks

Ordered KYB KG5512, because I wanted a little extra stiffness
Rock Auto $61.58 for pair with $8.99 USPS Priority Mail

 

[65sporty]

I believe the Moog joints are what used to be Precision u-joints, my local auto parts has Precision for years and I have used them for a long time. The big factor is greasing them. I do like the Spicer joints, I don't believe I have ever used a Neapco joint.

 

[1970FuryConv]

I believe the Moog joints are what used to be Precision u-joints, my local auto parts has Precision for years and I have used them for a long time. The big factor is greasing them. I do like the Spicer joints, I don't believe I have ever used a Neapco joint.

I'm glad to know Moog worked for you! That's important. I can't find the Spicer, and Neapco is more expensive. Thanks!

 

[1970FuryConv]

Shocks, Remove
· Shocks: lower mounts, remove nuts, ¾ ls, gun. Pry bar: remove shock from mount
RS, Heavy Rust

LS, Same

Shocks: upper mount, RS pictured: bolt head (faces forward), 19mm ss, ½ BB, Nut (faces rear) ¾ ss, ½ R.

Shocks, Remove and recycle. Upper bolts and nuts also pictured

Lower Shock mount studs clean, despite heavy surface rust around

Compressed shocks. Did not expand. No handling/suspension help here