1976 Plymouth Gran Fury Suburban Wagon

I would not remove the metal backing plate from your middle seat. Pull the base portion, most likely it is there. Another spot on my wagon was taped to the inside of the drivers door card, but they could be anywhere.
 
Ok dumb question how do I get the rear seat out to check the bottom? I tried pulling up on it but something seems to be holding it in place.
 
Ok dumb question how do I get the rear seat out to check the bottom? I tried pulling up on it but something seems to be holding it in place.
The bottom edge needs to be pushed rearward first to clear the hook latches at the front. Push in on one side at a time about an inch or so, then lift. Repeat on the other side.
 
IF it's like the sedans, and does not bolt in, then a combination of pushing down and back, then up might do the trick. It'll have to move back about 2" to clear the catch on the floorpan. One kind of each outer seating position. Some seem to be easier than others.
 
Ok dumb question how do I get the rear seat out to check the bottom? I tried pulling up on it but something seems to be holding it in place.

The bottom edge needs to be pushed rearward first to clear the hook latches at the front. Push in on one side at a time about an inch or so, then lift. Repeat on the other side.
This is out of the 1969 manual.

20190222_095551.jpg
 
Here's what those hooks look like on a 72 Dodge wagon, I'm assuming they are the same for a 76?
For reference, this picture was taken from the rear LH (driver's side) door.
Screenshot_20190222-135705.png
 
Wow guys thanks for the diagrams. Good new is the door latch was just frozen and is working now. Also temporary patched my fuel tank as it leaks if its more then half full. Now to find a tank rebuilder as I haven't found a replacement tank for a 76 wagon.

Dog legs, rear door bottoms, spare tire well is where ours rotted
Not sure what the dog legs are but door bottoms have signs of rust starting. There spare tire area on ether side have been poorly patched along with rear compartment.
 
Just what I thought.

Also it looks like my dog legs are good right now. With 1 exception, all the rusted out areas are flat.
Fluid film is your friend. It's a product you spray into hidden areas to prevent moisture from doing it thing to steel. Much like the old timers way of "oiling" the car body to prevent rust. Fluid film IMO is better because it has no acids in the oil like used motor oil has (not as big of a concern on preservation of a daily driver, but a low use old car, maybe). Biggest yes for Fluid film is it squirts like a medium weight oil, and oozes, then solids up like grease and sticks and stays, keeping my wife oblivious to the fact that there is grease all through the bottom of her doors and fenders and rocker panels, (and me out of trouble)
I'm using it on my Charger and Challenger because of these days in the transition to spring where it was in the teens a couple of days ago and 55-60 with rain tommorow. Causing moisture to stick on the steel and collect in the bottoms. I did not have the bare body shells chemically dipped, ala million dollar resto, they are just drivers that I want to send on to my kid someday.
 
Fluid film is your friend.
Yes it is. Here you can get it in a gallon at the implement dealers. Then you spray it out of a weed sprayer.

What is up with the extra seat belt harness on the drivers seat?
I'm not 100% sure. It's bolted to the back of the seat. Might be a handicap thing along with the steering wheel knob.
 
I dont know if anyone mentioned that it is a hell of a lot easier when you have 2 people getting that seat out together.
 
@1978 NYB I hope so, I tried for almost an hour and had no luck. I can't seem to be able to push the seat back far enough to unlatch the fronts. The screws on the back I can't see let alone get a tool on them. I probably have to use more force, but I just don't want to brake anything.

On another note, I lifted up the rear and with the car in neutral both wheels spin the same direction. Guess the means it has a Sure-Grip. Did not find a ratio tag anywhere. Then started going over why my gas gauge doesn't work. I'm getting an ohm reading of 42 which should be half a tank. Unless the problem is related to my amp gauge not working either.
 
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